Shinyitis Support Group

[TrollDragon]

I was very curious to know what the MOSFET actually does in the Gloom so I contacted Ulton. They replied with "We would recommend Hellfire mod over this gloom mod because of multiple protections and better soldering." They never answered what the Gloom MOSFET actually does but their answer is easy to read between the lines.

Something has to be able to handle the high current demand and that is usually done by a mechanical connection or by a switch. A switch that would handle 30A is a large switch and requires a lot of room (look at the one in the Pulse BF). Instead they use a MOSFET which is an electronic version and toggle it on/off with that little contact switch.

 

[Zazie]

Then again it's around $43 from FT

And out of stock in black. Foiled again.

 

[Daniel Forsyth]

Good Morning Shiny People

 

[charlie1465]

Doing well!

Just had an customer in with a 30Q that sparked in his charger because of a torn wrap, actually burnt his thumb on it. Told him he was very lucky the battery didn't vent or worse, took the bad battery from him as he was still using it and sold him a new one.

Yes the little embellishments are very nice on the BB and Bantam, even if they are covered.

Albert had a 24hr sale yesterday on Bantams, $75CAD got you the box, gold panel, button and key, clear boro and stainless window... All that was left was Orange and Green, I had one in the cart but didn't bother as 30W would be a struggle for me to find a decent vape.

Yes and I noticed that albert had the silver Boro window plates in stock so i'll have to think of something else to get too. I'm always hoping that the BB plates are going to be in but i'm signed up for so many different sources for them I'm hoping to be assured a spot

Sparking batteries not good. I'm assuming it was damaged at the positive end for that to happen. It pays to be pretty careful with chargers as they can be a bit damaging if you're not careful....thank god he came in

I've just bought another BB and a Bantam box as I needed another one to fit the plates I bought from Albert. I'll have two....i think if I go with a 0.8 coil I should be able to get a good vape up at 25-30 watts....we'll see.

Off to hit the hay....see you tomorrow Charlie

 

[charlie1465]

Why? (Just curious.)

I just don't think it adds to the aesthetics of any mod to have a cheap led flashing away. I'd rather be able to turn it off

 

[TrollDragon]

Off to hit the hay....see you tomorrow Charlie

Have a great night Charlie.

 

[YorkMan]

New shiny RTA in service, my first RTA too!

 

[DeloresRose]

Dreamer...


Dreamer...


Dreamer...


POOF!

 

[Zazie]

Eskie, this photo I took back in July when I posted my Luna take apart pic's here.
View attachment 833853
All you need to do is remove the 2 top screws. Then there are 2 screws holding the chip in place.
The chip will be easy to coat. I'm going to test it on this Luna before I go hog wild on all.

When I took out the screws on the Luna I'm buffing, I couldn't budge one on the bottom plate. The other came out easily, but when I went to put it back in it just spun and spun. It wasn't stripped, but removing it apparently bored out the hole to the point where there was nothing for it to grip. I ended up treating it with some Loctite and was able to get it to screw into place, but the experience makes me nervous about any more disassembling.

That said, coating the mosfet sounds like a smart move, so I'll get to work building up my gumption.

I just don't think it adds to the aesthetics of any mod to have a cheap led flashing away. I'd rather be able to turn it off

Ah, gotcha. I don't notice it when I'm vaping and like having confirmation that I've turned it on and off. Plus I find the blue "off" light soothing. Simple pleasures.

 

[Eskie]

That said, coating the mosfet sounds like a smart move, so I'll get to work building up my gumption.

.

Apparently @ShowMeTwice called and the chip is coated, so one less thing to worry about. When I did my buffing I just taped everything off. Maybe if I have to do it again I'll try the dismantle approach.

Dreamer...


Dreamer...


Dreamer...


POOF!




View attachment 833909

How come when I just tried that in front of the mirror all I got was some sorta lizard guy yelling at me in Latin?

 

[chanelvaps]

The Boost ( regular, not stab) is the oldest AsMODus I have, and my least favorite. So I can totally understand if you’re not a fan, if that’s where you stopped buying their stuff.

Seems like they do try to address weaknesses though, not just make a different look with each new mod.

I don’t care how many red Xs I get for saying this but... the VA Primo was an aspirational mod for me. And I can’t say one bad thing about it, stunning to look at, fabulous in the hand, a lovely vape. And yet I still look at it and think, how many Colossals could I have bought instead?

I love Asmodus and think they have great CS. I have been dealing with them for about 4 years now.

 

[ShowMeTwice]

When I took out the screws on the Luna I'm buffing, I couldn't budge one on the bottom plate. The other came out easily, but when i went to put it back in it just spun and spun. It wasn't stripped, but removing it apparently bored out the hole to the point where there was nothing for it to grip. I ended up treating it with some Loctite and was able to get it to screw into place, but the experience makes me nervous about any more disassembling.

The Luna's use two female/female standoffs. Yours just spun because the screw/standoff on the opposite side was spinning. You didn't bore out the hole and you didn't need Loctite. All you needed to do was hold the screw in place on the opposite side and it would have screwed in perfectly.

I thought the same as you with mine. Until I discovered the standoffs. Once I knew those were there all good.

When I did my buffing I just taped everything off. Maybe if I have to do it again I'll try the dismantle approach.

If you dismantle it just remember the standoffs are there. Easy once you know they're there.

 

[ShowMeTwice]

Something has to be able to handle the high current demand and that is usually done by a mechanical connection or by a switch. A switch that would handle 30A is a large switch and requires a lot of room (look at the one in the Pulse BF). Instead they use a MOSFET which is an electronic version and toggle it on/off with that little contact switch.

When myself and others were looking at the Gloom clone FT still had them listed and there was much discussion there, and elsewhere, about whether or not the clone had the same multiple protections as the original authentic. No one knew for certain. Thus my question to Ulton to see if they were the same.

Limelight addressed the original Gloom issues with a feature rich MOSFET/memory module that is now coated.

The switch in my Pulse BF is large. I love my Pulse.

 

[jfcooley]

Still chasing the perfect one? What was it again...a strawberry something? I'm remembering a coffee or chocolate something maybe too?

Good memory, moved on to raspberry though, which will probably change tomorrow.

 

[Hightech Redneck]

If you use a clear wrap, a battery is pretty durn shiny.

Be careful though, with a clear wrap its harder to see rips etc....

 

[Zazie]

This stuff would actually be better.
419C - Acrylic Conformal Coating (Fast Dry) - Conformal Coatings | MG Chemicals

Would this work? It's 419D instead of 419C but has the advantage of being on Amazon.

 

[Fidola13]

Spydro this is really appreciated and exactly what I needed. It is very confusing and especially when there are discrepancies in knarling/design.

I also think I was getting confused due to sellers incorrectly naming some of the products they were selling. Having said that that the green 2.5 is still a Provari classic as well......i think

This will be an excellent starting point for further research so thanks again. I shall have to get used to some 1 ohm + coils again

The P3 goes down to .7 I think mine goes to .5 ohms. I’ll check. I’ll PM you about the mini as well over the weekend.

 

[Fidola13]

I have never owned the earliest versions Charlie (all of my ProVari's have 2.5 trons). But if you are referring to that green one you pictured here a ways back, it is a standard 2.5 IMO.

While not 100%, the different basic Provari versions prior to the P3... Provape-1, Provape-1 V2, Provari V2, Provari V2.5 had differences such as tube diameters and designs, battery sizes, different LED colors, what finishes they were each offered with and in some cases older versions were updated to newer trons for customers if returned to them for the pricey upgrade. Extension caps made them more versatile... a mini 18350 could run an 18490, a standard 18490 could run an 18650. (I bought matchy extension caps for all of mine.)

Very rarely ProVape used an older tube design with newer electronics in it with special finishes for prototypes that they never did a production run of. My 1 of 1 V2 tube/V2.5 tron Coyote Tan Military w/red LED's, black caps, dark screen is an example. There was also a Battleship Gray version of it that I tried to buy but couldn't talk the source out of it for all the tea in China.

The Stealth's and Stealth Mini's were a special project limited edition made for only one specific source who sold them at a much higher price than standard Provari's. He used all the profits to help first response military, police, fire department, EMS, etc folks who were suffering from syndromes associated with those jobs. The Stealth models have a special black triple coat finish that is near bullet proof, a darkened screen with blue LED's for vaping on night ops in stealth mode. The only variation I know of is my 1 of 3 Stealth's that have green LED's instead of blue.

A moldy old picture of five of mine from very early 2014 that shows some of the tube/finish/size differences. L to R, a 2.5 Stealth Mini, 2.5 Stealth, 2.5 w/ext cap, 2x2.5 Military and 2.5 Mini.
View attachment 833817

Some resources about the Provari's are still available on line... videos, articles and forum archives. A couple you may want to check out...

The History of ProVape - Guide To Vaping

I just recently bought a Stealth Procyon with extension tube. It is sweet looking but now I’m trying to find a matte black rba for it. I bought a black Tauren solo. It’s not quite matte but it might work or a black entheon. If you have any suggestions send them my way.

 

[Fidola13]

Yeah, I guess it was because it was a full bottle when I had my autofire issue. But what about the tubing? Does that eventually work itself out? Having it remain attached and pulled out of the bottle didn't help my mood.

I find the squonk bottle setup on the Luna incredibly messy. I watched several build/review videos on it prior to buying it and they all seemed to agree that getting the squonk bottle in or out isn’t as good as I could/should be.

I think a couple of the Lunatics were discussing one of those 510 squonk refill bottles where just the atty it taken offf and it’s refilled from the top.

I haven’t seen any follow ups on that method so maybe one of them could jump in and describe it better than I’m doing.

 

[Zazie]

Apparently When I did my buffing I just taped everything off. Maybe if I have to do it again I'll try the dismantle approach.[/USER]

I used tape but ended up buffing it and some of the black right off before I noticed. On my other five, I'm going to start by sanding away all the black like @charlie1465 did before I get to shining up the stabwood.