AngeNZ

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    Scaling ?
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    Zazie

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    In any case, my question wasn't to do with rinsing coils in general but rather about how to go about rinsing a coil in an RDTA without getting water in the tank. I now know that there is no magical way to do that. If I want to rinse, I have to empty the tank.
     

    Hightech Redneck

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    Checking in, i scanned the 500 posts since my last visit.
    Hope all are well, been busy with work. Had 1 last little camping getaway and school starts monday.
    No rest for the weary lol.
    No new shiny news for me unless reflections count......
    20210820_203507.jpg

    Sorry for the phone pic quality lol
    Have a good evening/morning...
    Morvening?.....
     

    Fredman1

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    Dropped my youngest Dvarw...but it's OK. Thank heavens :w00t:
    Made up for the shock by stealing a section of the wife's freshly made guava tart. It's best if it lies overnight...but that is a very long time.
    Now i'm waiting for the explosion :eek:
    Eish this lock down is soooo boring !!!
     
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    borno

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    I don't think that's a good idea mate. I know from my knife making days that metals change their molecular structure when it's cooled down to fast (like dunked in cold water from a glowing state)...it can cause "flaking" (can't remember the exact word) because of the built up stress in the metal.
    Different metals behave differently. Some can take it, but some becomes brittle and "flaky" and have to be reheated (to a certain temp) and cooled at it's own pace to get it back to it's original state.
    Captain Ahab used blood:)
     
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    Fredman1

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    Captain Ahab used blood:)
    True...or so I heard. Whale oil was also used for a long time. We used a pre heated synthetic oil...viscosity is important...apparently. The blacksmiths and the metallurgists had all the learned answers. I just watched them and did what they did. What I did learn was cold water can have a adverse effect on certain metals when quenched from a glowing state....then again on other metals, not so much.
     

    charlie1465

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    You're right that Woolworths have a majority of the grocery sector here at about 37% of the total market, followed by Coles with 28% and Aldi at around 11%. The rest is made up of smaller franchises like IGA and then the small corner store operators make up the rest.
    The big two have enormous buying power and are famous for collusion and for screwing down the farmers and primary producers. A very corrupt system.
    Yup....very unfair competition for cheaper food.
     

    charlie1465

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    In any case, my question wasn't to do with rinsing coils in general but rather about how to go about rinsing a coil in an RDTA without getting water in the tank. I now know that there is no magical way to do that. If I want to rinse, I have to empty the tank.
    Not with a bottom fill rdta. With the Dvarw you just unscrew the deck leave the tank upside down and rinse to your heart's content.
     

    Resistance

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    I don't think that's a good idea mate. I know from my knife making days that metals change their molecular structure when it's cooled down to fast (like dunked in cold water from a glowing state)...it can cause "flaking" (can't remember the exact word) because of the built up stress in the metal.
    Different metals behave differently. Some can take it, but some becomes brittle and "flaky" and have to be reheated (to a certain temp) and cooled at it's own pace to get it back to it's original state.

    "but some becomes brittle and "flaky" and have to be reheated (to a certain temp) and cooled at it's own pace to get it back to it's original"
    After cleaning dry burn and let it cool on its own or use adrop or two of the juice your going to use (or VG) on the coil.
    It's proven, like I said around here it's done like that. You obviously don't have to do it if you don't want to, it a suggestion. The first the I've seen it done like that was in a vape store and I also ask for an explanation.
    Wether you brush water on the coil or dunk it,it doesn't really matter. You already changed the molecular structure when you dry burnt it.
    When the metal become flaky I'd say the coil is done for and needs to be changed.
    So this is just a suggestion, use it don't use it, but it's proven to work.
     

    charlie1465

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    True...or so I heard. Whale oil was also used for a long time. We used a pre heated synthetic oil...viscosity is important...apparently. The blacksmiths and the metallurgists had all the learned answers. I just watched them and did what they did. What I did learn was cold water can have a adverse effect on certain metals when quenched from a glowing state....then again on other metals, not so much.
    Yes it's the same when you harden a metal (tempering). You quench it in water from red hot to deliberately change the molecular structure to make it harder as in making a hole punch from raw steel for example.
     

    Resistance

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    In any case, my question wasn't to do with rinsing coils in general but rather about how to go about rinsing a coil in an RDTA without getting water in the tank. I now know that there is no magical way to do that. If I want to rinse, I have to empty the tank.
    If I really need to I do it under a slowlyrunning faucet mostly when it's empty. If it's filled I use distilled water and keep it on its side. I've been using the galaxies RDTA for daily use almost two months. So I can relate.
     

    Resistance

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    Yes it's the same when you harden a metal (tempering). You quench it in water from red hot to deliberately change the molecular structure to make it harder as in making a hole punch from raw steel for example.
    We use that for method for making files as well. Sometimes a mixture of oil and water.
    For some applications we also use a synthetic coolant.
     
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    Fredman1

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    You already changed the molecular structure when you dry burnt it.
    No the molucular structure isn't changed when it's heated during dry burning. These metals are designed to heat and cool....but what these metals don't like is being dunked in cold water while the metal is glowing red hot...and as I said, only on certain metals...which ones?...well that's the question.
    When heated during dry burning, it cools down slowly by itself afterwards and thus maintains it's integrity.
    When the metal become flaky I'd say the coil is done for and needs to be changed.
    Well that's the thing. You won't know if the metal is flaky, as it happens on a molucular level.
    So this is just a suggestion, use it don't use it, but it's proven to work.
    Nah friend, i've decided on day one i'm not going to dunk my glowing coil in cold water.
     

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