Shinyitis Support Group

[Fredman1]

Yes it's the same when you harden a metal (tempering). You quench it in water from red hot to deliberately change the molecular structure to make it harder as in making a hole punch from raw steel for example.

True Charlie. Some metals become hard and stable when quenched. Others become brittle and breaks when handled. They have to be reheated again to a lower temp and left to cool slowly to release the molecular stresses.
It all depends what steel it is and what it was designed to be used for.

 

[Pigs]

In any case, my question wasn't to do with rinsing coils in general but rather about how to go about rinsing a coil in an RDTA without getting water in the tank. I now know that there is no magical way to do that. If I want to rinse, I have to empty the tank.

I understand. Your point was about the need to empty the tank in an RDTA like the Brunhilde when you want to clean/rinse/dry burn your coil - whatever technique you use to do that (hot water or cold etc) Other types of attys like the Dvarw, you can dry burn/rinse/whatever without dumping a tank.

 

[Katmar]

 

[Pigs]

True Charlie. Some metals become hard and stable when quenched. Others become brittle and breaks when handled. They have to be reheated again to a lower temp and left to cool slowly to release the molecular stresses.
It all depends what steel it is and what it was designed to be used for.

Fred you mentioned knife making. Did you get deeply into that?

 

[Resistance]

No the molucular structure isn't changed when it's heated during dry burning. These metals are designed to heat and cool....but what these metals don't like is being dunked in cold water while the metal is glowing red hot...and as I said, only on certain metals...which ones?...well that's the question.
When heated during dry burning, it cools down slowly by itself afterwards and thus maintains it's integrity.

Well that's the thing. You won't know if the metal is flaky, as it happens on a molucular level.

Nah friend, i've decided on day one i'm not going to dunk my glowing coil in cold water.

I have worked in the metal industries for a long time and since then migrated to construction side of trades and most probably have had something to do with the car you drive now. I'm qualified to weld and or modify suspension parts and not just anyone is allowed to do that.
I'm also a qualified Quality Assurance and Quality controll officer with destructive and non destructive testing experience.
Point I'm making is any metal subjected to Heating and Cooling and Annealing in any order changes the carbon structure of said metal whether you want to believe it or not. Whoever told you nothing happens when the metal is heated and annealed isn't being truthful.
That's the purpose of annealing a metal so we can controll the process. That why some processes gets annealed in an oven and others sneaked in open air and some fan assisted.
Here I'm not saying you are wrong. I just saying I am not wrong.

When the metal starts to degrade as in vape coils. The metal will leave flakes even after cleaning. It's a sign the coil has had enough of heating and cooling because whether we know it or not it is exactly what we do with our coils when vaping without knowing it. Heat- Juice(VG) etc and then Cooling. Same thing on a daily cycle a few times a day. so once you start seeing black spots on the cotton it isn't always gunk falling from the coils. Sometime it's the metal itself degrading.
Another reason I'm interested in the new Innokin refresh function. The back and forth movement of current also changes metal structures. So does any current for that matter.
On another note... Try and pull a heater coil obviously when cooled down and see what happens. (Open air Annealing) the coil (heating element) breaks. Leave it as is without touching it and it will last very long.
Still a suggestion. Use it don't use it.
We're still friends right?

 

[Fredman1]

Fred you mentioned knife making. Did you get deeply into that?

Yeah I had a little one man factory going in my garage. Made some good money to. Man I loved every second of that. I mostly made folders...small, medium and large. Also made some hunting and skinning ones. Also some odd ones that people drew themselves.
I started off filing the first ones by hand. Later I made some machines and bought other ones.
Good times
This is the only one I have left. One of the first ones I made with a file.
Hardened to 58 HRC.

 

[Fredman1]

I have worked in the metal industries for a long time and since then migrated to construction side of trades and most probably have had something to do with the car you drive now. I'm qualified to weld and or modify suspension parts and not just anyone is allowed to do that.
I'm also a qualified Quality Assurance and Quality controll officer with destructive and non destructive testing experience.
Point I'm making is any metal subjected to Heating and Cooling and Annealing in any order changes the carbon structure of said metal whether you want to believe it or not. Whoever told you nothing happens when the metal is heated and annealed isn't being truthful.
That's the purpose of annealing a metal so we can controll the process. That why some processes gets annealed in an oven and others sneaked in open air and some fan assisted.
Here I'm not saying you are wrong. I just saying I am not wrong.

When the metal starts to degrade as in vape coils. The metal will leave flakes even after cleaning. It's a sign the coil has had enough of heating and cooling because whether we know it or not it is exactly what we do with our coils when vaping without knowing it. Heat- Juice(VG) etc and then Cooling. Same thing on a daily cycle a few times a day. so once you start seeing black spots on the cotton it isn't always gunk falling from the coils. Sometime it's the metal itself degrading.
Another reason I'm interested in the new Innokin refresh function. The back and forth movement of current also changes metal structures. So does any current for that matter.
On another note... Try and pull a heater coil obviously when cooled down and see what happens. (Open air Annealing) the coil (heating element) breaks. Leave it as is without touching it and it will last very long.
Still a suggestion. Use it don't use it.
We're still friends right?

We'll talk in the morning...it's past midnight and i'm off to bed.
Ofcourse we're still friends. All we're doing is ironing out a few metal creases

 

[Doffy]

Morning

 

[Resistance]

We'll talk in the morning...it's past midnight and i'm off to bed.
Ofcourse we're still friends. All we're doing is ironing out a few metal creases

Annealing you mean.

 

[Resistance]

Have a good night Fred.

 

[Pigs]

Yeah I had a little one man factory going in my garage. Made some good money to. Man I loved every second of that. I mostly made folders...small, medium and large. Also made some hunting and skinning ones. Also some odd ones that people drew themselves.
I started off filing the first ones by hand. Later I made some machines and bought other ones.
Good times
This is the only one I have left. One of the first ones I made with a file.
Hardened to 58 HRC.
View attachment 953925

I've never got into metal work but have always wanted to try it. Sounds like you and @Resistance could teach me a thing or two. PMs incoming soon !

 

[Resistance]

I've never got into metal work but have always wanted to try it. Sounds like you and @Resistance could teach me a thing or two. PMs incoming soon !

Anytime.

 

[Resistance]

Morning

Have yourself a nice day too

 

[hittman]

Good morning shiny people. That was quite the interesting discussion on metal working and composition.

 

[Zazie]

I understand. Your point was about the need to empty the tank in an RDTA like the Brunhilde when you want to clean/rinse/dry burn your coil - whatever technique you use to do that (hot water or cold etc) Other types of attys like the Dvarw, you can dry burn/rinse/whatever without dumping a tank.

You get me, son.

 

[Zazie]

Not with a bottom fill rdta. With the Dvarw you just unscrew the deck leave the tank upside down and rinse to your heart's content.

Yes, I understand how Dvarws work.

 

[Zazie]

If I really need to I do it under a slowlyrunning faucet mostly when it's empty. If it's filled I use distilled water and keep it on its side. I've been using the galaxies RDTA for daily use almost two months. So I can relate.

Yeah, I just ended up vaping them down as low as possible and sacrificing the remaining drops. As I said earlier, that's easy to do with the Galaxies. The Brunhilde, however, is a brawny lass.

 

[Resistance]

Yeah, I just ended up vaping them down as low as possible and sacrificing the remaining drops. As I said earlier, that's easy to do with the Galaxies. The Brunhilde, however, is a brawny lass.

Next time try to block the wicking holes. Use some old silicone plugs you might have from other vape gear or basically anything that would block the holes. Then rinse.
It can be done.
I have once in an emergency rinsed a complete deck after it fell in a bucket filled with cement. Lucky it a a top airflow not much went to the wick. I held it upside down and cleaned out the airflow took off the drip tip. Cleaned every thing. Boiled the wick semi dry on the mod after I rinsed and dried the mod. (RSQ luckily) blew out the airflow upside down and put the same tank back.
That was a really bad vape day.

 

[DeloresRose]

I have worked in the metal industries for a long time and since then migrated to construction side of trades and most probably have had something to do with the car you drive now. I'm qualified to weld and or modify suspension parts and not just anyone is allowed to do that.
I'm also a qualified Quality Assurance and Quality controll officer with destructive and non destructive testing experience.
Point I'm making is any metal subjected to Heating and Cooling and Annealing in any order changes the carbon structure of said metal whether you want to believe it or not. Whoever told you nothing happens when the metal is heated and annealed isn't being truthful.
That's the purpose of annealing a metal so we can controll the process. That why some processes gets annealed in an oven and others sneaked in open air and some fan assisted.
Here I'm not saying you are wrong. I just saying I am not wrong.

When the metal starts to degrade as in vape coils. The metal will leave flakes even after cleaning. It's a sign the coil has had enough of heating and cooling because whether we know it or not it is exactly what we do with our coils when vaping without knowing it. Heat- Juice(VG) etc and then Cooling. Same thing on a daily cycle a few times a day. so once you start seeing black spots on the cotton it isn't always gunk falling from the coils. Sometime it's the metal itself degrading.
Another reason I'm interested in the new Innokin refresh function. The back and forth movement of current also changes metal structures. So does any current for that matter.
On another note... Try and pull a heater coil obviously when cooled down and see what happens. (Open air Annealing) the coil (heating element) breaks. Leave it as is without touching it and it will last very long.
Still a suggestion. Use it don't use it.
We're still friends right?

As have no background in such matters, I never thought about the effect the Z80 might have in my coils. I just popped a Kelpie in it (I’m not using those included tanks) that already had a decent coil in it. I’m going to put a fresh one in there and see if I notice any difference in how it performs and lasts.
Thanks for all the insight.

 

[borno]

Next time try to block the wicking holes. Use some old silicone plugs you might have from other vape gear or basically anything that would block the holes. Then rinse.
It can be done.
I have once in an emergency rinsed a complete deck after it fell in a bucket filled with cement. Lucky it a a top airflow not much went to the wick. I held it upside down and cleaned out the airflow took off the drip tip. Cleaned every thing. Boiled the wick semi dry on the mod after I rinsed and dried the mod. (RSQ luckily) blew out the airflow upside down and put the same tank back.
That was a really bad vape day.

My favorite pipe fell into the waste stream while cleaning a bar screen many years ago, it was never the same and I hate to say I did try to save it.