Svoemesto Kayfun Mini V3

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Pinggolfer

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I never had a flow ring Pingy so I'm of no use (story of my life). But it does look nice. Maybe the flange out on the KM3 is bumping into the top of the ring

It really looks cool in person. I've been fooling with the 510 screw and it's holding on by a thread but now it seems to work.

20160216_162521.jpg
 

VapingTurtle

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I added a flow ring for the V3 and Provari P3 and it looks great except the V3 won't fire with the flow ring. Any suggestions?
Sure.

Use an atty that fits on the P3. Get a device that the KFMV3 fits on.




Oh... wait... you didn't want MY suggestions. :confused:
 

vapdivrr

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I added a flow ring for the V3 and Provari P3 and it looks great except the V3 won't fire with the flow ring. Any suggestions?

View attachment 531614
Just take a grinder and grind the top of that provari[emoji12]

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If you can get a lower profile 510 to 510 adapter it may work
I don't know if they make em that short though
 
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Pinggolfer

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Bronze

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Just take a grinder and grind the top of that provari[emoji12]

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If you can get a lower profile 510 to 510 adapter it may work
I don't know if they make em that short though
I think if he ground the bottom of the ring. But I'd need to see what it looks like first.
 
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vapdivrr

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I think if he ground the bottom of the ring. But I'd need to see what it looks like first.
I was just kidding but sure, if you had the right sanding wheel, you could grind the bottom of ring for sure.

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HBcorpse

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I added a flow ring for the V3 and Provari P3 and it looks great except the V3 won't fire with the flow ring. Any suggestions?

View attachment 531614
Take the V3 off.
Take the beauty ring/510 adapter off the P3, to expose the P3 thread.
Using a small flat head screw driver, CAREFULLY and LIGHTLY pry up on your Provari's center pin.
Go from opposite sides, something like 6'o'clock to 12'o'...., then 3'o'clock to 9'o'clock etc...no specific start or stop points. As long as you pry up one side, then pry from the opposite side.
You're not looking for MUCH lift, but it's better than leaving your V3's pin hanging by a thread!
 

Pinggolfer

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Take the V3 off.
Take the beauty ring/510 adapter off the P3, to expose the P3 thread.
Using a small flat head screw driver, CAREFULLY and LIGHTLY pry up on your Provari's center pin.
Go from opposite sides, something like 6'o'clock to 12'o'...., then 3'o'clock to 9'o'clock etc...no specific start or stop points. As long as you pry up one side, then pry from the opposite side.
You're not looking for MUCH lift, but it's better than leaving your V3's pin hanging by a thread!

Thanks HB. I'll give that a try when I get home.
 

HBcorpse

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Thanks HB. I'll give that a try when I get home.
I ain't makin' any promises!
But that O-ring on the Provari flat cap is very stiff.
Once, because I have more than one, I waited for one to "decompress" and it took two days.
Could have been more like 24-36 hours, but I didn't remember to check it until 48+ hours had gone by.
From some experiences I've seen here, Provape's "official" explanation is center pin O-ring compression.
 
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TheotherSteveS

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Anybody having a problem with juice seemingky creeping into the air-flow path. Its not flooding per se, I get many hours of fine vaping and then for some reason a slight kinda wet, light gurgling thing kicks in. I thought initially it was because i dumped juice down the deck chimney but I have rewicked it four or five times with at least four different wicking materials (rayon, muji, bacon and cotton/rayon mix) now, high coil, low coil, and the same thing happens every time. More wick, less wick. Tried a few things. JF anywhere between 1.5 and 2 turns (the latter with 70VG). It vapes well, 1.2 ohm now at 14W, but this squeaky, gurgling thing always starts eventually. Now its often when the juice level is low. Possible one of the orings is a bit screwy and Im losing vacuum?? I'm a bit perplexed. I'm a klutz but I know how to build a bloody atty without these issues...apparently not with the V3...
Any ideas suggestions gratefully received cos I'm nearly out of them?!?!
 
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qorax

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Anybody having a problem with juice seemingky creeping into the air-flow path. Its not flooding per se, I get many hours of fine vaping and then for some reason a slight kinda wet, light gurgling thing kicks in. I thought initially it was because i dumped juice down the deck chimney but I have rewicked it four or five times with at least four different wicking materials (rayon, muji, bacon and cotton/rayon mix) now, high coil, low coil, and the same thing happens every time. More wick, less wick. Tried a few things. JF anywhere between 1.5 and 2 turns (the latter with 70VG). It vapes well, 1.2 ohm now at 14W, but this squeaky, gurgling thing always starts eventually. Now its often when the juice level is low. Possible one of the orings is a bit screwy and Im losing vacuum?? I'm a bit perplexed. I'm a klutz but I know how to build a bloody atty without these issues...apparently not with the V3...
Any ideas suggestions gratefully received cos I'm nearly out of them?!?!
Uptill now no, no such problems.
1. Pls keep it to 1.5 turns if using less than 70% VG
2. Even if on higher VG - after a while bring it back to 1.5 turns
3. Take slow, steady and smooth draws. Remember, with every pull you're also pulling in juice into the chamber.
4. I'm sure you're by now well versed with the amount of wicking material to use. So no comments on it.
 

Saltwater

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Anybody having a problem with juice seemingky creeping into the air-flow path. Its not flooding per se, I get many hours of fine vaping and then for some reason a slight kinda wet, light gurgling thing kicks in. I thought initially it was because i dumped juice down the deck chimney but I have rewicked it four or five times with at least four different wicking materials (rayon, muji, bacon and cotton/rayon mix) now, high coil, low coil, and the same thing happens every time. More wick, less wick. Tried a few things. JF anywhere between 1.5 and 2 turns (the latter with 70VG). It vapes well, 1.2 ohm now at 14W, but this squeaky, gurgling thing always starts eventually. Now its often when the juice level is low. Possible one of the orings is a bit screwy and Im losing vacuum?? I'm a bit perplexed. I'm a klutz but I know how to build a bloody atty without these issues...apparently not with the V3...
Any ideas suggestions gratefully received cos I'm nearly out of them?!?!
That's about the time I've been rewicking. I've also been running open two turns and switched to 1.5 after watching Q's tips. Today I haven't had that issue.
 

stanleybb50

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Take the V3 off.
Take the beauty ring/510 adapter off the P3, to expose the P3 thread.
Using a small flat head screw driver, CAREFULLY and LIGHTLY pry up on your Provari's center pin.
Go from opposite sides, something like 6'o'clock to 12'o'...., then 3'o'clock to 9'o'clock etc...no specific start or stop points. As long as you pry up one side, then pry from the opposite side.
You're not looking for MUCH lift, but it's better than leaving your V3's pin hanging by a thread!
Or carefully push in on all sides of the silicone ring to make it "fatter" again.

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stanleybb50

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Uptill now no, no such problems.
1. Pls keep it to 1.5 turns if using less than 70% VG
2. Even if on higher VG - after a while bring it back to 1.5 turns
3. Take slow, steady and smooth draws. Remember, with every pull you're also pulling in juice into the chamber.
4. I'm sure you're by now well versed with the amount of wicking material to use. So no comments on it.
Yeah I'm using a 60/40 (pg/vg) and find I only need like 1 then actually.

**Sorry for the multiple replies.... I just reply as I go... Haha

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raitizz

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I have one on the way that I ordered last week. Can't wait.

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It looks like it should hold a little bit more joose. Would be glad, if you could comment on that later.

Did you get the driptip too?

R
 
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