So here we are 24 hours into getting my Term c built and filled the same way I did my Ody v2 and not one leak, gurgle or stuck air bubble thanks to the wonderful tips in this forum, I'm in love with this rba!! I left my
juice control open all night and layed on its side, not one drop of
juice leaked. AMAZING QUALITY PRODUCT!!!! fwiw I'm using cov 3mm wick with cheap silver nr wire from micheals craft store here in Canada, the way I do it is the same as Igetcha with the double wick setup but for the negative lead I like to trap it under the nut....I know your saying that the wrong way but here is how to do it without having it leak.
LEAK PROOF COIL MAKING TIP HERE
First take your wicks and hold them in front of you as if your going to wrap them with your made up coil, I make my coils with pliers an wind them really tight so they make really good contact to the res/nres. Cut the tails of the joints so they are 2mm long. Now imagine the wicks are in your hand and your holding them in front of you to wrap the wick, here is the secret, most people will start wrapping the coil by placing the start of coil in between your thumb and wick then in a clockwise wrap over top of the wick and around. I do it opposite to that, I place the coil in between my index finger and the wick on the back side of the wick as you are looking at it and wrap it towards me over the top in a counter clockwise so that if you look at it the negative lead ends up being in the front of the wick and the positive on the back. Now I do this because I like trapping the lead under the nut to maintain a stable ohm setting when using this and found that just running it in the channel will yield varied ohm results through out the day especially if you are using your juice control. The reason behind wrapping the coil this way so that when you take the negative lead and trap it under the nut to make the connection it wont choke the wick off when you snug the nut down, hope that make sense. Now back to the process lol, you want to trap the positive lead first like usual, then take the negative lead that is now set up coming out from under the nut like the v1 did, wrap one full turn around the entire term c rebuildable part under the nut(have the nut tightened so you can just fit the non res under it while wrapping) until you get back to where you started from and over lap 1mm so that the nut itself stays level. Makes a pretty damn good seal since it will now be even all the way around with the nut tightened down instead of having air channels from just taking it directly out of the channel and trapping it which will cause leaks. When that nut gets tightened and you wrap it the way I said not to do it, otherwise known as the standard way to wrap lol, it will choke the wick out as the nut us tightened, this way it will not affect the wick at all and I get extremely stable coils with no leaks or dry hits. I open my juice control about 1mm and leave it, never a leak, maybe a .1 ohm jump here and there but it is perfect just like it was on my ody v2. I know this is probably very hard to understand and next rebuild I will try to take pictures and add them to this post if this is not clear for you guys.
Edit: I did forget to mention that the nut/ring that retains the negative in my build has a flatter surface side than the other side of it, I made sure that the flatter side was facing down onto the base section rather than up to the mouthpiece. Take a look closely at it next time you have the ring off and you will see what I mean, the mouthpiece seals great against the thinner flat surface still. I think it is just the way the tapping bit puts more of a counter sink on the ring/nut.
More than likely they're from the same factory SVC gets theirs from.
