Good deal. I will have to get some of the 28g no res wire. I get most of my batteries and wire from RTD Vapor.Thanks for the info. I am really enjoying the Terminator.
- Status
Good deal. I will have to get some of the 28g no res wire. I get most of my batteries and wire from RTD Vapor.Thanks for the info. I am really enjoying the Terminator.
Try here they for affordable heavy gauge nickel, I didn't know they even had it.
Variable Speed Drives, Phase Converters items in TEMCo Industrial Power Systems store on eBay!
Variable Speed Drives, Phase Converters items in TEMCo Industrial Power Systems store on eBay!
Last edited:
I ordered a 25 ft. spool of 26 gauge nickel, going to see if I can get them wire welder skills honed a bit.
Thats where I just saw it too. I liked the heavy gauge because once you bent it into position it doesn't move and holds the coil right where you put it.
Depends on what mod your using. Regulated or mechanical. I used 32 for fastest heat up with a 15w chip. 32 is much harder to work with. 30 is easier. 32 would break sometimes at the twist after a while or if I crimped it too tight.
I always ended up with high resistance at the joints after a dry burn or two, then I started using ready wires but didn't like the thin gauge. (I wrapped two wires on each wick when using Ithaka or it's clone)(on mechanical)
Crimping silver beads had the same or worse problem, sometimes they melted.
Hopefully with 26 gauge nickel coming I can master my wire welder, it's just been sitting here.
I would love to have that updated part for Ithaka but not for the price, somebody will clone it.
Crimping silver beads had the same or worse problem, sometimes they melted.
Hopefully with 26 gauge nickel coming I can master my wire welder, it's just been sitting here.
I would love to have that updated part for Ithaka but not for the price, somebody will clone it.
I only use Mechanical mods. Not into the VV or VW. I usually do lower ohm builds. I keep it pretty simple.
I shoot for 0.8 ohms for mechanical and usually use 28 gauge nichrome but I'm going to be giving 26 gauge nichrome a shot.
I will probably drop that down a bit with the 26 gauge, maybe 0.5 - 0.6 ohms and see how it does.
I will probably drop that down a bit with the 26 gauge, maybe 0.5 - 0.6 ohms and see how it does.
Terminator Revisited
These clones were pretty much the first of the high quality clones and they were not all that cheap in price either due to price fixing by the manufacturer (Rainbow)
Terminator-C is a clone of the Golden Greek Odyssues atomizer
MKB-TS is a clone of the Golden Greek GGTS telescoping mechanical mod.
This atomizer has the air tube drilled out slightly and the v1 ceramic's channel widened to accommodate larger wick size.
The base has been changed to provide a GGTS connector
The mod has a Ghost Modder's switch added and the tubes have been polished.
Still one of the best performing set ups that have.
These clones were pretty much the first of the high quality clones and they were not all that cheap in price either due to price fixing by the manufacturer (Rainbow)
Terminator-C is a clone of the Golden Greek Odyssues atomizer
MKB-TS is a clone of the Golden Greek GGTS telescoping mechanical mod.
This atomizer has the air tube drilled out slightly and the v1 ceramic's channel widened to accommodate larger wick size.
The base has been changed to provide a GGTS connector
The mod has a Ghost Modder's switch added and the tubes have been polished.
Still one of the best performing set ups that have.
Last edited:
Something strange happened when I used the 26 gauge nickel wire for the NR section of my approx. 0.5Ω 26 gauge nichrome coil. Both the NR and the R glowed about evenly red then the nickel melted. I thought I had a short so I made another, same thing, the nickel "popped".
Next I made up a wire with nickel on each end of a short piece of 26 gauge nichrome and mounted it on the terminal block that I use for load testing batteries, this is when I saw all three pieces glow evenly.
BTW, I checked the nickel with my meter and it is non-resistor wire, I'm at a loss as to why this happened.
On another note I was quite successful welding the 26 gauge nickel to the 26 gauge nichrome but I twisted it the next couple of times.
Now here's the part that's got me scratching the old head, I've been using 32 guage nickel NR for a couple of years. Right now I have a Term set up with 28 gauge nichrome at around 0.6Ω and it's working fine. I probably should make up another one and mount it on my terminal block to see if the NR is heating up there too, heck I might as well use 22 gauge Royal for NR for that matter. LOL
(my 26 gauge coil was 0.5Ω BTW)
Next I made up a wire with nickel on each end of a short piece of 26 gauge nichrome and mounted it on the terminal block that I use for load testing batteries, this is when I saw all three pieces glow evenly.
BTW, I checked the nickel with my meter and it is non-resistor wire, I'm at a loss as to why this happened.
On another note I was quite successful welding the 26 gauge nickel to the 26 gauge nichrome but I twisted it the next couple of times.
Now here's the part that's got me scratching the old head, I've been using 32 guage nickel NR for a couple of years. Right now I have a Term set up with 28 gauge nichrome at around 0.6Ω and it's working fine. I probably should make up another one and mount it on my terminal block to see if the NR is heating up there too, heck I might as well use 22 gauge Royal for NR for that matter. LOL
(my 26 gauge coil was 0.5Ω BTW)
Last edited:
The NR was the first to start glowing red.
Most of the coils that I've made for my Term's were with this 32 gauge nickel and 30 gauge nichrome in the 1 Ω area but this problem had to be present then too just not as severe. I'm going to get some of that nickel coated cooper. I have a boat load of ready wires but they're all skinny wire.
(28 gauge nichrome and 32 gauge nickel NR @ 0.6Ω)
Most of the coils that I've made for my Term's were with this 32 gauge nickel and 30 gauge nichrome in the 1 Ω area but this problem had to be present then too just not as severe. I'm going to get some of that nickel coated cooper. I have a boat load of ready wires but they're all skinny wire.
(28 gauge nichrome and 32 gauge nickel NR @ 0.6Ω)
Last edited:
So I took three of them 2.8Ω ready wires and wrapped them together as one, a pretty darn good vape.
So the 32 did glow too. I noticed the no res got hot but didn't seem to cause an issue when wet. It does conduct heat but doesn't add strain to the battery. Technically the nickel does have some resistance to it. More than copper. I know copper is taboo but I used the plated without any issue. It was just what I found at work. Not sure how it will weld up though. I can send you some of the plated copper I used to try out if you want. Pm me.
However it looks like the 26 is working the same as 32 in glowing respect. Metal conducts heat no matter what it is.
However it looks like the 26 is working the same as 32 in glowing respect. Metal conducts heat no matter what it is.
Last edited:
I made up a 0.7Ω wire with 28 gauge nichrome with 26 gauge NR legs and fired it, no red legs present this time. I would think it has more to do with the resistance of the "R" wire then the gauge of the "R" wire.
When I have some more time I'll make a lower resistance test wire to see just when the nickel starts to glow.
Earlier in the day the NR "popped" even before the "R" started to glow. ( 26 and 26 )
When I have some more time I'll make a lower resistance test wire to see just when the nickel starts to glow.
Earlier in the day the NR "popped" even before the "R" started to glow. ( 26 and 26 )
I've had a 30g nr with 28g r micro coil in mine for a while now....With no issues. So you may be right about the resistance being the culprit. I haven't tried one with 26g yet because my switch gets warm with the 28. I'm also running about .8 ohms. Glad to see the new interest. Still one of my best set ups also...always works great.
Your switch shouldn't be getting warm with a 0.8Ω load, it is either loose or dirty.
I am going to use 26 gauge NR with 28 gauge R but just haven't got around to it as yet. "
'Been playing around with some Rose RB's
Are we talking about the switch on a MKB-TS?
The original switch's two pieces that screw together want to keep coming loose from each other because it only appear tight when it runs out of threads, there is no shoulder on it. My work around for this was to cut a very small piece of screw off and drop it into the hole of the button then screw the contact part into it and it will bottom out on the little piece of cut screw. It's in the MKB-TS thread some where. If it's not that then it's dirty inside where the button slides through the switch housing.
Take a volt meter and put one lead on the button and one lead on the base of the atty and fire it, 0.2 volts is what I would consider acceptable. With a load in the 0.8Ω each 0.1 volt is close to 1 watt loss. I've seen a whole volt missing on some mods before.
Take a volt meter and put one lead on the button and one lead on the base of the atty and fire it, 0.2 volts is what I would consider acceptable. With a load in the 0.8Ω each 0.1 volt is close to 1 watt loss. I've seen a whole volt missing on some mods before.
- Status
Similar threads
- Locked
