Terminator/Nautilus/Choddy/Oddy Clone Pics, Tip,Tricks and Quirks

[GoodInk]

Well after taking mine apart for cleaning and the pics, it leaks like crazy when filling. I've found that liquid it getting in from under locking ring. Once put back together it stops leaking and I don't even need to open the juice control. I never had this problem before, I know I tightened the center post like crazy, maybe too much?

 

[inganeer]

I have several term's and a few ody's and they are all temperamental at times it seems. The number one thing I found to cause a leaking issue is the top nut o-ring, number two is the top cap o-ring, number three is the center post o-ring. Other quirks are the lock ring is super easy to get a half a thread off in installing and be real hard in noticing when tightened. I have what has worked out to be a working cure for the rebuild-able part removal without the center post o-ring sticking was to install a small flat washer between the o-ring and the center post. Will try to post a pic when I get home. This lets the o-ring slip a little as you tighten or loosen it without having to use pliers or such.

 

[dice57]

Five of my attys use NR wire, you get used to it.

Twisting NR on is not really difficult, and you can always build or buy a zapper.

I do agree it's nice to have at least one other atty that doesn't require NR, for those days that the gods hate you and NR twisting.

So which NR-wire seems to work best? Silver, Nickel?, and what gauge? I'll be using 28awg Kanthal, so thinking the nickel 28 gauge(.38 ohms/ft) would suit my needs best, same gauge as my coil and almost 1/2 the resistance of 30(.6 ohm/ft.) and almost 1/3 the resistance of 32(.94 ohms/ft). Any thoughts or preferences? Didn't find any stats on silver, except mention that it is really soft. I'll basically be going for a build or 1-1.5ohms using a micro coil.

 

[Innocuous]

28awg is what I ordered: it's within an awg gauge or 2 of everything I have around.

silver is vastly easier to twist - but it generally is the only wire of the two that WILL twist ;-)

I've even used plated strands of copper from lamp-cord: too thin, but it worked.

 

[JeremyR]

Silver twists easy but the 30 gauge I have will break really easily at the end of the twist where it comes off the res.. I would try 26g of silver(or nickel) 30 is way to fragile.

Actually right Now I'm using a 24g tinned copper from a shielded cat5 cable. It works great on the twist because the res embeds in the copper it seems. *I think a heavier gauge nores is easier to twist.* Doesn't take much work or twist for a solid unbreakable twist to the 32 I'm using with this 24. Though the copper heats up more just from heat transfer from the coil.. It adds no resistance.

See the wire out to the side its a tin coated copper ground drain wire for the cable. I install this at work every day for internet.
http://www.primuscable.com/store/p/...or-Cable-with-Waterblock-Tape-1000-Black.aspx

 

[dwcraig1]

So which NR-wire seems to work best? Silver, Nickel?, and what gauge? I'll be using 28awg Kanthal, so thinking the nickel 28 gauge(.38 ohms/ft) would suit my needs best, same gauge as my coil and almost 1/2 the resistance of 30(.6 ohm/ft.) and almost 1/3 the resistance of 32(.94 ohms/ft). Any thoughts or preferences? Didn't find any stats on silver, except mention that it is really soft. I'll basically be going for a build or 1-1.5ohms using a micro coil.

Nickel is what the ready wires use, 28 with 28 sounds good to me.
I have only 32 gauge nickel, I twist two pieces together for use with 28 gauge resister wire but would surly prefer to use 28 gauge nickel.

 

[dice57]

Thanks for the info guys, will go to my sister jewelry store and see if I can score some 26 silver when I get up. Terminator is 2 days out, so have some time to get wire. Will order some nickel too. That way can find my preference for the build that I end up using. Then I can try the NR to SS mesh coil build on my genesis clone too. lol.

Jeremy, did you get that Romulan Warp Core thread started yet? lmao.

 

[JeremyR]

No It would be simply called vertical coil.

Villarino IMO there are really only 2 ways to get a leak - not enough wicking or the bottom positive post oring not sealing to base. I only use 1 oring in the top mouthpiece cap and one at the 510 on my oddity.

I actually had a bit of a wicking problem chaining it on this build, and my quick fix today was unscrew top cap. Running all afternoon. No leaks and wicking great.

 

[dice57]

What? Vertical Coil, that's it? Not even Vertical mounted Micro build or the Pig in a blanket build? Man you are no fun at all. Either way you can count on me to contribute and piss someone off or maybe make them chuckle. Well off to the jewelry store for me. Expecting my 28awg Kanthal in an hour or so and feel the need for a new Volcanic Dragon build.

 

[dwcraig1]

On to the next two photos
As i keep saying, forget about the lower o-ring leaking, it just isn't going to happen. I decided to not use anything but space in the spot where the bottom o-ring is installed, When I removed it and the spacer(which keeps the o-ring from unscrewing the positive nut on disassemby) I made sure to maintain a gap there. I then reassembled the rest of the tank ect. and filled.
1st photo is after it sat there for 10 min.
2nd photo shows that the post is way inboard.
View attachment 172846View attachment 172847
1st photo, I decided after checking with an ohm meter to go ahead and vape it awhile without the bottom o-ring and added spacer, about 30 good hits and sat for while again.
2nd photo, bottom o-ring still out, top tank seal broken by removing upper most o-ring. sat for 2 min.View attachment 172848View attachment 172849

If it leaks, it is leaking air into the tank at the top and almost always it is the 9 mm x 2 mm o-ring in the top section of the tank top.

Since using a spacer above the bottom o-ring I no longer use Vasline on any of the o-rings, just whatever juice that I happen to be using. With the spacer added the positive nut rarely loosens when unscrewing the ceramic housing from the base.

I didn't do this to see what would happen, I already knew, I wanted you folks to see it.

And while some of us do things differently the laws of physics does them the same.

I guess it's time to bring this back up to the front. This is a Rainbow Terminator

I have another post here some where where i have no wick and coil in a Term-C that's full of liquid and I *vaped it with no power and it didn't leak either (* just would take drags of air from it as if vaping)

 

[Scope666]

I guess it's time to bring this back up to the front. This is a Rainbow Terminator

I have another post here some where where i have no wick and coil in a Term-C that's full of liquid and I *vaped it with no power and it didn't leak either (* just would take drags of air from it as if vaping)

I might have to try that extra washer you made, my Oddy never leaks, but the Herc does when it's on the full side. I'm thinking I might be wrapping the positive wire too much, or need better sealing on the top o-ring like you mentioned.

 

[dwcraig1]

I might have to try that extra washer you made, my Oddy never leaks, but the Herc does when it's on the full side. I'm thinking I might be wrapping the positive wire too much, or need better sealing on the top o-ring like you mentioned.

I also use a small nylon washer just above the bottom o-ring on Ithaka clones that secures the positive wires but for a different reason, so the resister wire can't poke through the o-ring and short out. A person never forgets the taste of vaping burnt rubber.
If it's leaking from the o-ring but not out the post check to see if the post is centered other wise the o-ring gets distorted when tightened. I made a cut small sleeve from the end of a pipette that I put onto the center pin where it goes into the housing to keep it centered as it took me half an hour to do it without it. It does block the ceramic's drain though.

On mine I have 4 wires on that positive without problems but that is with a washer there.

 

[Scope666]

I also use a small nylon washer just above the bottom o-ring on Ithaka clones that secures the positive wires but for a different reason, so the resister wire can't poke through the o-ring and short out. A person never forgets the taste of vaping burnt rubber.
If it's leaking from the o-ring but not out the post check to see if the post is centered other wise the o-ring gets distorted when tightened. I made a cut small sleeve from the end of a pipette that I put onto the center pin where it goes into the housing to keep it centered as it took me half an hour to do it without it. It does block the ceramic's drain though.

On mine I have 4 wires on that positive without problems but that is with a washer there.

Yeah, I think that's what I need. For now I opened it up and cut the positive wire shorter so it's only the two (x-coil) wires making just one complete wrap around, with no overlap. Seems better so far. (Saw Imeo mention doing this in the Ithaka thread)

 

[JeremyR]

Excellent Craig. I remember reading that post of yours.
I used to say that all the time with kangers. About the top of the tank not being sealed causing flooding.
My loose cap excision was An anomaly, but worked for me during that particular time. Not on my next tank fill. It must have been when my tank was getting low that it made it better.

Yeah pretty boring dice - was thinking Vertical micro coil oddy/term/ithica/kayfun/Russian/ect.

 

[dwcraig1]

Just want to add that the wicks and the bottom o-ring will definitely "let" it leak but not be the primary case of it. the wicks being full in the top of the ceramic is important during normal use, but not so much in the side channels, just enough to keep that positive leg protected from shorting is all that's required there.

 

[Scope666]

Just want to add that the wicks and the bottom o-ring will definitely "let" it leak but not be the primary case of it. the wicks being full in the top of the ceramic is important during normal use, but not so much in the side channels, just enough to keep that positive leg protected from shorting is all that's required there.

It's much better now, but is still getting gurgly after a few consecutive draws ... does that mean I need more wick up top?

I have one piece of 2mm silica in each "x" (x-coil setup)

 

[dwcraig1]

It's much better now, but is still getting gurgly after a few consecutive draws ... does that mean I need more wick up top?

I have one piece of 2mm silica in each "x" (x-coil setup)

I would say to just try it, I normally do parallel duals with two 2.5 mm worth of silica across the top of each channel, think "Fogger"
Also it it just a gurgling sound or are you leaking some juice?

 

[Scope666]

I would say to just try it, I normally do parallel duals with two 2.5 mm worth of silica across the top of each channel, think "Fogger"
Also it it just a gurgling sound or are you leaking some juice?

If I take too many consecutive hits in a row, I'll get a bit of juice around the air controller. I probably need to double up on top like you mentioned.

 

[JeremyR]

I've found with the oddity, which I believe has same channel size up top, 3 mm is perfect with 90 vg. Cut flush except for 2-4 single strands down channel. Whatever you using for wick soak it Dow and the top channel should be full.

 

[dice57]

I would try cranking the watts up. possibly just under powered for the amount of juice wicked. On one of my builds on the Russian, it was getting good vape but with a gurgle sound, was only at ~12 watts at the time, kicked it up to 15 watts and dang near knocked me over. Great Vape. Have you tried turning down your juice control a tad?