Thanks Phil. I figured it wouldn't hold much. For my purposes this is a good thing!
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I have the Reomizer that Reos Mods is selling, and a lot of forum members have both the Reomizer & A7, and they prefer the Reomizer. You might check the Reo forum for more specifics as the A7 has been a 'go to' rba for many there.
I'm liking the Mini Term since it doesn't need a mouthpiece. Looking ahead to summer time, it'll be nice to have a simplified vape...just a tube and rba, nothing else to fall off or worry about. I also have an ERA bottom feeder that works great as a dripping rba. Its super duper tiny but requires a mouthpiece.
I also like ceramic & plan to purchase a Thermovape Cera once production is in full swing. Had no idea that ANY ecigs used ceramic internally, so I jumped on the Mini Term. I'm a newb to all this though, take it with a grain of salt.
I'm liking the Mini Term since it doesn't need a mouthpiece. Looking ahead to summer time, it'll be nice to have a simplified vape...just a tube and rba, nothing else to fall off or worry about. I also have an ERA bottom feeder that works great as a dripping rba. Its super duper tiny but requires a mouthpiece.
I also like ceramic & plan to purchase a Thermovape Cera once production is in full swing. Had no idea that ANY ecigs used ceramic internally, so I jumped on the Mini Term. I'm a newb to all this though, take it with a grain of salt.
I have a clone/choddy from kwalka's co-op and it has been working great on the original setup. I only use one Oring on the mp and install it from the top pushed in by the top cap nut. Just recently rewicked it with an oval 30g kanthal coil with NR wire welded with my DIY wire welder. Wicked with two threads of 2mm hemp, one long down the ceramic and a short cut to the edge of the ceramic. Really liking this setup, but need a clear tank, will the clear tanks sold for the Term fit this?
I have a Terminator C on the way. I'm not crazy about the clear housing, does anyone know if the replacement terminator steel tank can replace the clear one on the C?
To those with the Ody v2 rebuildable part: I had heard somebody (probably in one of the Ody threads) talking about not bothering with the NR wire on the negative side since the resistance wire will ground in the metal channel. I thought that made sense, so I rebuilt tonight and and only did NR on the positive side and left the R longer on the negative side. Works an absolute treat. It's simpler, saves NR wire, and removes one joint/point of failure. I'll have to see if I run into any issues, but this is a thumbs up at the moment; give it a shot if you haven't already.
I just got a Terminator C, did a video review of the unboxing, disassembly, and build. Maybe it'll help some folks...
Not liking the negative connection I made (Pinching the negative between the ring and the body) seems leave a small gap allowing some juice to get to the wicks, and defeating the whole flow control thing... I'd get a bit of flooding if I let it sit for too long...
Not liking the negative connection I made (Pinching the negative between the ring and the body) seems leave a small gap allowing some juice to get to the wicks, and defeating the whole flow control thing... I'd get a bit of flooding if I let it sit for too long...
I had been doing this with my Ody V2s from the first time I built them. Many months later I happened to mention only using 1 nr leg, in a GG thread. People were flipping out like I just re-invented the Ody. I got like 10 PMs looking for an explanation on this new fandangled trick I invented. I was baffled at how many people had these, and no one looked at it and had the same thought. Or no one spoke up about it. Didnt dawn on me to mention it here.
Great minds.....
I just got my term C, got a couple questions concerning this ceramic wicking part, if someone would be so kind to answer.
I've got the term apart and soaking in a degreaser solution, I want to flame the ceramic but it's not coming out it's threaded sleeve. Is it supposed to, is it glued in or something? I also noticed it's not absolutely centered in the sleeve when I look at the top, it's slightly crooked by a millimeter or so, will this cause any leaking issues once it's all together?
I've got the term apart and soaking in a degreaser solution, I want to flame the ceramic but it's not coming out it's threaded sleeve. Is it supposed to, is it glued in or something? I also noticed it's not absolutely centered in the sleeve when I look at the top, it's slightly crooked by a millimeter or so, will this cause any leaking issues once it's all together?
I've had em stick in there pretty good, be careful that you don't break it trying to get it out.
As long as the air post mounts straight there should be no problem.
You may want to just not flame it if you feel that you can rinse it well enough.
Most all leakage is caused by the uppermost o-ring leaking air into the tank and usually caused by the mouth piece being off center
And the mouth piece get off center because the ceramic housing can have a sloppy fit into the base.
Be sure to close liquid control before and during opening the tank top.
As long as the air post mounts straight there should be no problem.
You may want to just not flame it if you feel that you can rinse it well enough.
Most all leakage is caused by the uppermost o-ring leaking air into the tank and usually caused by the mouth piece being off center
And the mouth piece get off center because the ceramic housing can have a sloppy fit into the base.
Be sure to close liquid control before and during opening the tank top.
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Thanks for the reply. I've been wiggling it for an hour and it's not budging. Looks like it's wedged solid due to slightly misshapen ceramic. I'm going to stick it in the freezer for a while and see if the steel will move away a bit, if that doesn't work I'll just leave it alone.
Thanks again!
Thanks again!
I got a terminator c and was having the leaking too. It was coming out of the center post. Somewhere on this thread (its long) someone (kudos to you) proved that it is due to insufficient sealing of the tank sections or the o ring by the mouth piece/juice control.
Without much experimentation I decided to just get some bigger o rings. This works fantastically. Also as added protection I put an o ring on the coil unit. This o ring holds the ground wire down. Then goes the metal threaded piece and finally the mouth piece /juice control.
Thanks for all the good advice on this thread. Total cost of the new o rings = $3.50
Without much experimentation I decided to just get some bigger o rings. This works fantastically. Also as added protection I put an o ring on the coil unit. This o ring holds the ground wire down. Then goes the metal threaded piece and finally the mouth piece /juice control.
Thanks for all the good advice on this thread. Total cost of the new o rings = $3.50
Hello everybody,
I'm new to ECF and just wanted to thank everybody for all the valuable info I have gained here. I've been vaping carto-tanks for close to a year now and the Term-C is my first rebuildable. As soon as I bit the bullet and ordered one I started reading this thread. I wasted some material getting the hang of building my first coil but I think that is just a learning curve that everybody goes through. Right now I'm kicking it with a 2.3 ohm coil at 11 watts on a Zmax ver.2 and I am very pleased with it.
I would never have known to wash/boil the parts to get rid of any residue on the parts so thank you for that most of all.
After reading the thread, I was concerned with possible flooding due to the gap/misalignment from the negative connection but I set it up the "standard" way for my first time and I have had no flooding after 3 tank refills. I think this is because I use 100% vg. I open the juice flow one full 360 degree spin and have no flooding (or dry hits) even left overnight. Of course take this with a grain of salt because I have not had it that long but I'm thinking maybe people that use thick juice don't need to worry as much about the negative connection gap? Time will tell I gues.
Anyway I just wanted to say hi and thanks for the insight and encouragement.
I'm new to ECF and just wanted to thank everybody for all the valuable info I have gained here. I've been vaping carto-tanks for close to a year now and the Term-C is my first rebuildable. As soon as I bit the bullet and ordered one I started reading this thread. I wasted some material getting the hang of building my first coil but I think that is just a learning curve that everybody goes through. Right now I'm kicking it with a 2.3 ohm coil at 11 watts on a Zmax ver.2 and I am very pleased with it.
I would never have known to wash/boil the parts to get rid of any residue on the parts so thank you for that most of all.
After reading the thread, I was concerned with possible flooding due to the gap/misalignment from the negative connection but I set it up the "standard" way for my first time and I have had no flooding after 3 tank refills. I think this is because I use 100% vg. I open the juice flow one full 360 degree spin and have no flooding (or dry hits) even left overnight. Of course take this with a grain of salt because I have not had it that long but I'm thinking maybe people that use thick juice don't need to worry as much about the negative connection gap? Time will tell I gues.
Anyway I just wanted to say hi and thanks for the insight and encouragement.
Welcome to ECF this is a lovely rebuildable. Use caution rebuildables are addictive and can be costly.....but so much fun.
Hey guys, just read all 74 pages of this over the last day or so. So Ive got a question.
My primary atty is a phoenix (I know pretty basic) wicked with nextel ceramic wick. Ive used lots of gennys and a few other RBA's But I have always preferred the phoenix/nextel vape.
So I bought a Term C thinking it would be like a tank version of my usual setup, First I wicked it with Nextel, that did not taste right, then I used silica, but I am not a fan of the taste of silica. So my question is this, Can the terminator taste as good as a Drip atty with nextel? Or am I just chasing a dragon here?
My primary atty is a phoenix (I know pretty basic) wicked with nextel ceramic wick. Ive used lots of gennys and a few other RBA's But I have always preferred the phoenix/nextel vape.
So I bought a Term C thinking it would be like a tank version of my usual setup, First I wicked it with Nextel, that did not taste right, then I used silica, but I am not a fan of the taste of silica. So my question is this, Can the terminator taste as good as a Drip atty with nextel? Or am I just chasing a dragon here?
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