You might be right, but I am just going by the pictures I have seen of the set. Either way....I like that design much better.
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You might be right, but I am just going by the pictures I have seen of the set. Either way....I like that design much better.
I agree, it looks 'better'.
I took my term-c piece to the hone-stones: polished the seal-end, and coarsely knocked down the faux-knurling over an hour or so. It's not removed or gone, but just an hour on the coarse stone seems to have cleaned it up enough that pouring 70-80% VG in now actually FLOWS, rather than hanging there.
I took my term-c piece to the hone-stones: polished the seal-end, and coarsely knocked down the faux-knurling over an hour or so. It's not removed or gone, but just an hour on the coarse stone seems to have cleaned it up enough that pouring 70-80% VG in now actually FLOWS, rather than hanging there.
The description says it can be used with the long clear tank or the stock Term-C tank. The stock mouthpiece for the Term-C is about 54mm, the new style is 62mm so it is a bit longer.
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Full metal jacket action with my Term C and MKB-TS.... 
(using the GG Oddy / GGTS base of course.. )
(using the GG Oddy / GGTS base of course.. )
I just got the new long mouthpiece from Stormy today. It does not seem to work witj the stock Term-C tanks. It fits, but you cannot adjusy the juice control because there is a lip at the top of the mouthpiece that hits top top cap so iy won't allow you to unscrew the MP to adjusy juice flow. I'm bummed because I didn't order the long clear tank to go along with it because I didn't like the look. I'll try it with 2 steel tank sections, but I'm sure it's the dame hight as 1 steel and 1 clear section.
I really like the new MP, liquid flows much better
Edit: I just thought of something. Maybe I have the Term-C screwed too low into the GGTS base. Maybr I could back it out and get some more height from the yank sections. How far should the center pin be sticking out of the bottom of the GGTS base?
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I really like the new MP, liquid flows much better
Edit: I just thought of something. Maybe I have the Term-C screwed too low into the GGTS base. Maybr I could back it out and get some more height from the yank sections. How far should the center pin be sticking out of the bottom of the GGTS base?
Sent from Sony XPERIA Z
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You have it right on your first thoughts, while it may "work" on the C it is for the longer tank
For those expecting the Rainbow Ithaka clone, there may be a gurgling issue which was addressed by Imeo by the use of a new nut on the rebuildable.. I seriously doubt the Rainbow has the updated nut, but there is a solution using a 2x2 O-ring...
Ithaka Tweak No Bubbles .6 ohms Duals - YouTube
May save some of us scratching our heads, and wondering why we can't get it not to gurgle...
Ithaka Tweak No Bubbles .6 ohms Duals - YouTube
May save some of us scratching our heads, and wondering why we can't get it not to gurgle...
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Yeah, I just tried messing with it some more. Doesn't work without the long clear tank. I'll email Stormy and ask her to change the description on her site.
I cut off the top half of my nut, the whole aspect of it is really a non-issue.For those expecting the Rainbow Ithaka clone, there may be a gurgling issue which was addressed by Imeo by the use of a new nut on the rebuildable.. I seriously doubt the Rainbow has the updated nut, but there is a solution using a 2x2 O-ring...
Ithaka Tweak No Bubbles .6 ohms Duals - YouTube
May save some of us scratching our heads, and wondering why we can't get it not to gurgle...
Keep that bottom feeder closed as all it will do for you is create a leak when filling.
I want to address the reason that I cut off the top half of the nut inside the ceramic, it was not because of the occasional complaint of gurgling (they weren't flooding by the way). My problem was why did my Terminators deliver better flavor than Ithaka when really they are the same thing (more or less). I came up with the difference is the focus of the air streak on the coil.
The original Ithaka ceramic nut sticks way up inside the ceramic so liquid that gets into the bottom of the ceramic doesn't cover the end of the air pipe, the new Ithaka nut closer resembles the one in the Terminator.
I'm still up in the air on the flavor thing but over all Ithaka is my everyday vape.
(was my every day vape, there's a new kid in town, I'm not talking yet)
The original Ithaka ceramic nut sticks way up inside the ceramic so liquid that gets into the bottom of the ceramic doesn't cover the end of the air pipe, the new Ithaka nut closer resembles the one in the Terminator.
I'm still up in the air on the flavor thing but over all Ithaka is my everyday vape.
(was my every day vape, there's a new kid in town, I'm not talking yet)
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A Pic of the nut, and how you cut it would be helpful if you have the time... In the video, BH dripped water with a syringe around the air-tube in the ceramic (not in it) and it was leaking down around the post... not through the air-hole.
There are two slots in the bottom of the ceramic, they are drain holes, they drain to under the ceramic and the ends of the wicks pull it back out. These can be adjusted open or closed, mine are open.
Here' a picture of the nut:
I cut mine of with a Dremel using a cut off wheel
Here' a picture of the nut:
I cut mine of with a Dremel using a cut off wheel
The only leaking I ever had with Ithaka was during filling because the Basic feeder was open and it leaked every time.
I even posted about "how is that not going to leak" before I even got mine.(in the GG thread) (I try not to post in there, I could be trouble)
Oh ya , it never leaked since closing them with nothing noticeable on the vape, as expected
I even posted about "how is that not going to leak" before I even got mine.(in the GG thread) (I try not to post in there, I could be trouble)
Oh ya , it never leaked since closing them with nothing noticeable on the vape, as expected
So now that an Ithaka clone can be bought for the price of a Term the Ithaka is the better choice.
( That is if they are of quaility and I expect that they are)
( That is if they are of quaility and I expect that they are)
LOL! I don't post there either... I'm sure Imeo reads our posts with interest here.. I used to when I was in my GG craze long ago, and was one of the first ones to use an 801 in the UFS..
I used to when I was in my GG craze long ago, and was one of the first ones to use an 801 in the UFS..
I had considered starting an "unofficial Ithaka " thread but I think maybe this is it.
I considered asking a moderator to add "Ithaka clone" to the title of this thread, if anybody else thinks that's desirable please comment on it.
I considered asking a moderator to add "Ithaka clone" to the title of this thread, if anybody else thinks that's desirable please comment on it.
I'f you are going to mod the topic for every variation-on-a-theme, it'll never sit still: might as well consider..
:
"Bottom-Coiled Tanks And Mods"
:
Which then is also suggestive of T3's, Evods, Protanks, BT804 (and v2) and......
Maybe you would prefer: "Odysseus-likes/wannabes/good/bad/ugly"?
:
"Bottom-Coiled Tanks And Mods"
:
Which then is also suggestive of T3's, Evods, Protanks, BT804 (and v2) and......
Maybe you would prefer: "Odysseus-likes/wannabes/good/bad/ugly"?
Hey guys, I have a question about using the driptip adapter on the kayfun conversion kit but didnt want to hijack this thread with conv. kit questions so started this thread...
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...ion-kit-terminator-nautilus.html#post10151873
if anyone has any info or experiences with using the driptip tube adapter (or just to post pic and your thoughts) please stop by and post thanks
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...ion-kit-terminator-nautilus.html#post10151873
if anyone has any info or experiences with using the driptip tube adapter (or just to post pic and your thoughts) please stop by and post
thanks
Ithaka very well could have been called Oddy v3 so it fits the topic
BTW that more or less is what the title is.
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