Terminator/Nautilus/Choddy/Oddy Clone Pics, Tip,Tricks and Quirks

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Ryan Cummings

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See the bottom cap is what i was thinking because I have tested different batteries and made sure the post in the term c was centered. And just to make sure everyone knows, yes I am using safe chem batteries... I've been doing this for a while lol. Is there a way for me to take the bottom cap apart? It doesn't seem the pos can be removed from the cap. Thanks again.
 

dwcraig1

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See the bottom cap is what i was thinking because I have tested different batteries and made sure the post in the term c was centered. And just to make sure everyone knows, yes I am using safe chem batteries... I've been doing this for a while lol. Is there a way for me to take the bottom cap apart? It doesn't seem the pos can be removed from the cap. Thanks again.
Here's the end of his post about it, read back for the whole story. I hope it helps.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...chanical-mod-ggts-clone-102.html#post10220746

The axis is pressed into the insulator and cap, I haven't had one apart but I don't think is very easy either.
 
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Ryan Cummings

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*Update* The issue resolved itself (strangely enough). While the issue was happening I remember I would occasionally see condensation on the bottom of the battery. When the issue stopped today I thought back and remembered I had a major leak last week (I thought I cleaned it out sufficiently). So there was ejuice left in between the post and cap causing it to be slightly conductive but completing the circuit with a lot of resistance. So it wasn't enough to cause the term to fire constantly. Evidently the rest of the juice evaporated... What a PITA it would have been to take the bottom cap apart. I will just check for leaks more frequently...
 
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pizza2me

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Why didn't you folks tell me this was so easy!!! :) Woke up early this morning and set up my first term-c. Loving it!! Piece-o-cake!!

Question though... every once in a while I'm getting dry'ish hits. I feel like I'm opening the juice control to much. I use 70pg/30. I thought I would just need it opened a hair. Mines open probably a mm or 2. Is that normal?

I remember reading something about the bubble when you fill it. Do I have to do something with that? Or just keep opening the juice control? Thanks!!!
 

michliu

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Why didn't you folks tell me this was so easy!!! :) Woke up early this morning and set up my first term-c. Loving it!! Piece-o-cake!!

Question though... every once in a while I'm getting dry'ish hits. I feel like I'm opening the juice control to much. I use 70pg/30. I thought I would just need it opened a hair. Mines open probably a mm or 2. Is that normal?

I remember reading something about the bubble when you fill it. Do I have to do something with that? Or just keep opening the juice control? Thanks!!!

Depending on what wick material you are using and how tightly it's packed in there, 1-2 mm is not uncommon. I sometimes use 2 strands of 2 mm cotton yarn on the ceramic side and it gets compressed screwing on the locking ring. I'll need 2-3 full turns to have juice flow keep up.
 

tagster

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forgive me for this but, correct me if im wrong. this is a tobeco clone if im not mistaken right? pics borrowed from vochu, epf. View attachment 246051

Vochu originally designed the Kayfun conversion kit for the Tobeco clone. That is why the mouth piece diameter is small and needs the larger o-ring to work on the Terminator-C.
 

dwcraig1

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Sorry for the double post but I have a questions. It seems I need to run my Terminator at a higher wattage than I normaly do, is this normal? I have been using Vivi Novas at about 8 watts. My Terminator is at 2.3 ohm's running at 5.3v for 12 watts. Is this because of the thicker 30 awg wire?
Thicker wire yes but probably a thicker chunk of juicy wick as well.
Sounds about normal to me
 
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JeremyR

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0953A44B-B1BF-4DC4-B424-78C28B4E5F80-1768-000001EE856119E6.jpg


Well that was great but short lived, I had been running my clear tank on the bottom. Found out that the clicky style plastic pens cut to size make a good driptip. The oddy wasn't in use I had it standing upside down and it fell over a couple times and the plastic cracked at the top of the threads. Sucks because I was getting a ton of juice in it, guessing about 4.5ml.

(This is an oddity with an extra clear tank)
 
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GoodInk

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Thicker wire yes but probably a thicker chunk of juicy wick as well.
Sounds about normal to me

Well I tore it apart, even thought it was working just fine, to try and adjust the center pin out a little for better air flow. I looked at the coil and wow that thing was all gunked up bad for half a tank, it looked like a 2 week old coil. So I though well might as well try a dry burn and adjust it. Well after adjusting it and the dry burn, it was reading 3.3 ohms. I'm using 2mm ekowool with stacked wicks, I'm guessing maybe I was shorting on the center pin in the cup, because the ohms were stable. So I made a new coil with less wire and now it's running more towards the norm. 1.8/1.9 ohms at 4.2Vv (9.5 watts) with better performance. I think that speaks a lot but how good of a design this style of a RBA is if you can run a messed up coil like I was and still out perform a modded Vivi in flavour and vapor.

CA inside and out can save a cracked clear tank section. Mine continues to work, and I just stopped at the threading - on the other side, I slathered it. (Remember thin CA will 'wick' into thin cracks: I applied it and then flexed the crack a few times before setting it to cure)

What is CA?
 
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dwcraig1

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A lot of times the nr to r splice becomes a place of high resistance after dry burning. High ohms = bad connection, low ohms = shorted connection ( other than what coil you wrapped ).
@ GoodInk, unless the top of your mod cuts off all air going to the 510 like on a Provari you want the base of the Terminator to sit dead on the "crown" of the mod's 510 connector, you do this by screwing only the Term's base on the mod the screw the rebuildable part into the base till it makes good contact with the mod's positive post and lock down the ring , remove and complete assembly.
You really don't want the weight of the Term flopping around on the mod's positive post's grommet.
 
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GoodInk

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A lot of times the nr to r splice becomes a place of high resistance after dry burning. High ohms = bad connection, low ohms = shorted connection ( other than what coil you wrapped ).
@ GoodInk, unless the top of your mod cuts off all air going to the 510 like on a Provari you want the base of the Terminator to sit dead on the "crown" of the mod's 510 connector, you do this by screwing only the Term's base on the mod the screw the rebuildable part into the base till it makes good contact with the mod's positive post and lock down the ring , remove and complete assembly.
You really don't want the weight of the Term flopping around on the mod's positive post's grommet.

Well on my Provari you can screw it in all the way and still get a good amount of airflow. The Term has that small raised area around the 510 to keep it from sealing on the drip well. The Provari does have very small air pathways cut into the 510 connector that cut the airflow down some.
 

dwcraig1

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Well on my Provari you can screw it in all the way and still get a good amount of airflow. The Term has that small raised area around the 510 to keep it from sealing on the drip well. The Provari does have very small air pathways cut into the 510 connector that cut the airflow down some.

What was I thinking (Odddy v1 I guess) but the way I stated is right for adjusting the positive post.
I don't trap my negative wire this way but I do adjust the atomizer's positive post this way.
 
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JeremyR

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Hey guys need some help, my oddy clone was working great but I wanted to recoil it, so recoil and wicked and it tastes like burning/ or new silica and its not going away. 32g 3 mm sili Re-did it a little differently still burnt silica taste. Put the old one, that was fine, back in and got burnt silica taste. So same wick tasted of burning silica. There must be something with the coil going on. I'm sure you guys have run into this before and can save me some time, as I tried 6+ times different ways and still burnt no flavor, other than dry silica, but, decent vapor production. Wick is saturated. I've been making coils for months and the first wick I made for this oddy worked perfect at around 3 ohms never had a silica taste. I'm not sure whats going on. I torched the silica and everything. It's like the coils dry, wick does have good contact and not choked. I can drip plently of juice on it and it still tastes like dry silica. I have never had this issue before. Did about 30 puffs and burning silica taste still there.

Heres pics of two, twisted 32, 3 mm silica
currently I have straight 32 with smaller twists to nr in the cup.(no pic)

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JeremyR

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It's labled 32 they are around 2.8 ohm. The no res is 30g silver.

Currently have one with a single strand of 32 around 6-8 wraps at 3 ohm

I have the wick trimmed flush with the cup, none in the channels except one single strand in the positive channel... and now after 10 pulls, new silica flavor going away I'm getting flavor coming back.

Definitely can not put 3mm in the channels!

First one I had success with I didn't either, that was it.
 
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