I wonder if IBtanked would make a replacement tube for these if people started to inquire about them.
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I wonder if IBtanked would make a replacement tube for these if people started to inquire about them.
Ok, so I received my Nautilus v2 today and of course there are problems, I think. Ordered a small mouthpiece that said it was for the Nautilus but it will not allow me to put the top cap on with one tank...
This is the more pressing concern for me at the moment. My center post assembly housing thingy seems to be missing an insulator. I have tried to set this thing up twice but as soon as I fire the button on my EA mod the button starts getting extremely hot and my guess is that it's shorting out because it is missing that insulator and is metal on metal. Is that right? Here are my pics and a screenshot I took from a tutorial video of the Nautilus v2
Of course I don't have any extra o-rings to put there either
Is that supposed to be some hard plastic delrin piece or is it a small o-ring?
I was so stoked to use this thing, now I'm totally deflated
This is the more pressing concern for me at the moment. My center post assembly housing thingy seems to be missing an insulator. I have tried to set this thing up twice but as soon as I fire the button on my EA mod the button starts getting extremely hot and my guess is that it's shorting out because it is missing that insulator and is metal on metal. Is that right? Here are my pics and a screenshot I took from a tutorial video of the Nautilus v2
Of course I don't have any extra o-rings to put there either
Is that supposed to be some hard plastic delrin piece or is it a small o-ring?I was so stoked to use this thing, now I'm totally deflated
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The mouthpiece, the shorter one is for a 27 mm tank, the supplied tanks are 23 mm.
Version 1 uses a small o-ring while version 2 uses delrin, it appears yours is version 2, you can use either.
The required o-ring is considerably smaller than the one on the bottom.
Once you are ready to tighten that center post snug it up using a screwdriver but do the final tightening by holding the shaft with pliers below the o-ring ( in the 3rd picture ) and turn the housing with your fingers. It needs to be pretty tight but it's brass and can be broken.
It looks like a trip to the hardware store is in your future
Also there is the possibility that your insulator was installed under the nut inside the ceramic by mistake.
Version 1 uses a small o-ring while version 2 uses delrin, it appears yours is version 2, you can use either.
The required o-ring is considerably smaller than the one on the bottom.
Once you are ready to tighten that center post snug it up using a screwdriver but do the final tightening by holding the shaft with pliers below the o-ring ( in the 3rd picture ) and turn the housing with your fingers. It needs to be pretty tight but it's brass and can be broken.
It looks like a trip to the hardware store is in your future
Also there is the possibility that your insulator was installed under the nut inside the ceramic by mistake.
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I hear what your saying man. There is a o-ring inside the ceramic cup under the nut. It is the same size as the one on the bottom of the center shaft. So, at the bottom of the ceramic cup there should not be an o-ring? The nut should be sitting directly on the ceramic? I would have thought the o-ring should should be there to prevent leaking because it fits perfectly in there. In any case, the o-ring is not smaller like you said it should be so I must be clearly missing it. It is required to prevent shorts though, right?
heh.. I'd bet on poorly assembled at 'factory', or missing.. Par for the course.
Remove it and use it on the spot where yours is missing, trust me it can't leak because of anything there(or nothing there)
Correct, nothing under the nut inside the ceramic.
And while I'm at it, any leakage after tank is closed is because the very top o-ring (9 x 2 mm) is letting air leak into the tank, just keep that in mind.
Correct, nothing under the nut inside the ceramic.
And while I'm at it, any leakage after tank is closed is because the very top o-ring (9 x 2 mm) is letting air leak into the tank, just keep that in mind.
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Very well, gonna give it a shot and try a rebuild now. This thing is built very well I must say, I am quite impressed with it. This o-ring set here is probably what I'm looking for to get that one I'm missing, right?
O Ring Kit for Terminators
That's for version 1 as version 2 has the plastic piece instead of the smallest o-ring but it will work fine just the same.
Here is the v2 center pin
Note it does have an o-ring inside, the nut seems to be of smaller OD so they must be using it more a a washer. As I said leaking is not something that happens in this spot.
Version 1 has only the nut inside the ceramic but the nut is wider
Note it does have an o-ring inside, the nut seems to be of smaller OD so they must be using it more a a washer. As I said leaking is not something that happens in this spot.
Version 1 has only the nut inside the ceramic but the nut is wider
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Here's what you might also do for the missing plastic spacer.
Cut off the part that stays on the outside of the wall on the drywall anchor using a razor blade, keep it flat.
The second picture is of when I removed the very bottom o-ring to show it doesn't have anything to do with creating leakage. The blue plastic piece is the part of a drywall anchor which I use in all my Terminators between the bottom o-ring and the nut that holds the positive wire, this helps keep the bottom o-ring from sticking to the nut and causing it to unscrew while removing the ceramic housing from the base.
This same plastic piece will work quite well also at the bottom of the ceramic housing.
Cut off the part that stays on the outside of the wall on the drywall anchor using a razor blade, keep it flat.
The second picture is of when I removed the very bottom o-ring to show it doesn't have anything to do with creating leakage. The blue plastic piece is the part of a drywall anchor which I use in all my Terminators between the bottom o-ring and the nut that holds the positive wire, this helps keep the bottom o-ring from sticking to the nut and causing it to unscrew while removing the ceramic housing from the base.
This same plastic piece will work quite well also at the bottom of the ceramic housing.
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July 1st, start of my 1 week vacation from the death star. I am loving my Term-C in full mode + ody ts base. This thing is rocking on my MKB-TS. Left half the top cap air chamber off, i like smaller set up. I cant believe how well this is working out. Great vapor production & TH. Its running a 2ohm 3m wick. stock term-c tank. ody ts base. the air flow ring, mid setting. I know i am also using air vent holes in bottom of tube. HOLLY SHNICKELFRITZZZZZZ.. DW for going in front & posting ALL the great info!! The ody clones might be a bit temperamental, so is my old lady. Only perfect when they she wants to be. Happy monday 2 all.
you can go to your local hardware store and buy nylon washers that are the right size. I replaced the o-ring that goes in the same place on the v1's I have with nylon washers a while back. costs a couple bucks, solves the problem and leaves you with a couple backups.
Thanks for all the replies guys. I have it working right now with at 1.3ohms with 32awg NR and a piece of 30awg kanthal with 4 wraps I believe. Can't seem to get the vapor production or intensity I want on my mechanicals but it's working pretty good on my provari at 3.8 volts. I will take all of your advise and try to put it to good use. Im using 2 pieces of 3mm silica and now my goal in the next build is to try and drop the ohms to .90 or so with 32awg or 30awg kanthal. so I can use it on my GP PAPS or EA mod.
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@ buffalofloyd, here is the tank that fits your extra mouthpiece, it hold about 3.50 -3.75 ml, a very nice size, not too big, not too small.
Oddy's Housing :: Medium Clear Housing -
See my post, it's #2 from left
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...e-pics-tip-tricks-quirks-226.html#post9967248
Oddy's Housing :: Medium Clear Housing -
See my post, it's #2 from left
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...e-pics-tip-tricks-quirks-226.html#post9967248
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Thank you very much sir, I did notice on vapor freak after the fact that they have diff sizes. I didnt notice the extra mouthpiece I ordered was not for using with one of the tanks supplied in the v2 long mode i ordered. Live and learn I suppose.
Vapor Freak has the same ones, shipping was 21 days from Korea.
Do you have that up and running yet? The suspense is killing me, LOL
Anyone use the ready wires from Stormy's? At $8.99 for 50, I thought I'd give them a shot to use until my Kayfun upgrade kit comes in. (I just do not dig making NR / R wires) I'm kinda wary of the Nikrothal... I'll probably torch the piss out of it before wrapping... I also grabbed some Ekowool to try out.. I'm 1000% satisfied with XC-116, but the Ekowool was calling to me...
Ready Wire for coils
I also grabbed some Ekowool to try out.. I'm 1000% satisfied with XC-116, but the Ekowool was calling to me... Ready Wire for coils
Hehe, yes I got it running. Not as well as I would have like if you read my post above
Your looking at 30 guage unless you want one wrap.
But your mechanical should be pumping 3.8 under load
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