Its an aio device by aspire similar to the kanger nebox.
Is that actually true? The wire is annealed under vacuum to prevent TiO2 formation as far as I know. The refractive properties arise mostly from Ti2O3 and TiO (gotta love those transition metals!)I've used this to great effect. Thank you for sharing.
Just a clarification on what you wrote. TiO2 always forms when annealing. The colors we see changing are the different thickness of oxide that forms on the wire. The oxide acts as a lens, refracting a portion of the visible spectrum, according to its thickness. Until it's colored, the oxide is stable and does not risk being dispersed in the air/liquid/etc. It's only when it's thick enough to look white that it risks dispersing.
This is what I read pretty much everywhere. If I am mistaken, I would most definitely like to know.Is that actually true? The wire is annealed under vacuum to prevent TiO2 formation as far as I know. The refractive properties arise mostly from Ti2O3 and TiO (gotta love those transition metals!)
Hi everyone, just checking in to let you all know what I'm doing with Ti.
Still using it almost exclusively for TC.
Still dryburning it with tcr set to 00600 and temp set to 600°f.
Still using 24g exclusively.
Still vaping on coils I installed this time last year.
Still loving it.![]()
You are still the TI MASTER!
I occasionally post the clip I saved from long ago for the titanium newbies:
TITANIUM DRY BURNING ON DNA-TCR MOD:
Posted by ECF member "Balazsk":
Program a curve with a TCR of 0.007. (0.00725 slightly hotter) and set the temperature to 572f/300c and assign it to an unused profile on the dna 200. Start at 10 watts, adjust higher if needed. On my Subtank Mini RBA, the two outer coil wires did not glow, but this was confirmed by another ECF member.
Max temperature will be limited to 1112f/600c (real) and you can pulse whatever you want and the coil will never be overheated to the point of forming TiO2... Gunk will fall off just like with a normal dry burn.
I like titanium and I would still be using it over SS today if I could truly get it to last months like you and others say. I only build fused claptons and when it comes time to clean and rewick it's such a hassle and scare for me to slowly and lightly pulse those Ti claptons (kanthal outer BTW) to get the gunk off without creating Ti oxide or destroying my coil. How do you clean your titanium builds??
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I honestly don't care anymore.
Someone said that if a person is deceived once, it's the deceiver's fault. If the person is, however, deceived a second time, it's on the person.
You can bring a camel to a water source but you sure can't make it drink from it.
I have another five popular proverbs about this but I don't care anymore.
We might not know what long term exposure to Ti will bring on us but why content with anything lower than grade 1?
Heck, those guys using titanium nails (I have no idea for what but they call it "recreational activities") have all switched from grade 2 to grade 1 years ago because of TiO2 formation and some of us are trying to go the opposite way in vaping?
Cheers
Tony
- I use TI GR1
- A quick dry burn is the quickest/simplest/easiest way to clean the coil of gunk
- At a bit of a loss as to why more others don't use it
@showman, not sure about all that but the Grade 1 Ti I get from unkamen is pretty springy and tough. I have to anneal it prior to wrapping my coils to produce good uniformity. The TCR of that Ti is closer to correct than some other china Ti I've used based on temp settings.
I have no issues dryburning Ti with low wattage or a custom dryburn profile on my DNAs. Doesn't take any longer than dryburning kanthal, nichrome or any other vaping wire and I've had the same coils in one of my Aromamizers for over a year.
I love the stuff but have moved over to SS claptons as my primary coil type for a broader flavor spectrum and the ability to run in power mode when needed.
@showman, not sure about all that but the Grade 1 Ti I get from unkamen is pretty springy and tough. I have to anneal it prior to wrapping my coils to produce good uniformity. The TCR of that Ti is closer to correct than some other china Ti I've used based on temp settings.
I have no issues dryburning Ti with low wattage or a custom dryburn profile on my DNAs. Doesn't take any longer than dryburning kanthal, nichrome or any other vaping wire and I've had the same coils in one of my Aromamizers for over a year.
I love the stuff but have moved over to SS claptons as my primary coil type for a broader flavor spectrum and the ability to run in power mode when needed.
Have a link to the brush you're using? I'll try it.A year is impressive! I'm not saying it takes longer to dry-burn kanthal or nichrome, but it takes longer than I have patience for, and I find the fumes or whatever you call the vapor it emits unpleasant. I'm surprised no one here seems to have tried manually cleaning with a hard bristled brush. It's pretty fast and easy
I think this is the one being used:Have a link to the brush you're using? I'll try it.
I think this is the one being used:
Stainless Steel Silver Cleaning Tool / Brush for RDA Coil
Not sure how it would reach under the coil, or inside.
A year is impressive! I'm not saying it takes longer to dry-burn kanthal or nichrome, but it takes longer than I have patience for, and I find the fumes or whatever you call the vapor it emits unpleasant. I'm surprised no one here seems to have tried manually cleaning with a hard bristled brush. It's pretty fast and easy
If you do use a wire brush, be careful none of the fine bristles, you may never see, don't get in your atomizer, as you could end up inhaling them into your lungs. Not something I'll be doing to save wire, or time.