Titanium wire, vaping and safety

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hellotitanium

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TheotherSteveS

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I've used this to great effect. Thank you for sharing.

Just a clarification on what you wrote. TiO2 always forms when annealing. The colors we see changing are the different thickness of oxide that forms on the wire. The oxide acts as a lens, refracting a portion of the visible spectrum, according to its thickness. Until it's colored, the oxide is stable and does not risk being dispersed in the air/liquid/etc. It's only when it's thick enough to look white that it risks dispersing.
Is that actually true? The wire is annealed under vacuum to prevent TiO2 formation as far as I know. The refractive properties arise mostly from Ti2O3 and TiO (gotta love those transition metals!)
 
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gorman

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Is that actually true? The wire is annealed under vacuum to prevent TiO2 formation as far as I know. The refractive properties arise mostly from Ti2O3 and TiO (gotta love those transition metals!)
This is what I read pretty much everywhere. If I am mistaken, I would most definitely like to know.
 

cigatron

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Hi everyone, just checking in to let you all know what I'm doing with Ti.

Still using it almost exclusively for TC.
Still dryburning it with tcr set to 00600 and temp set to 600°f.
Still using 24g exclusively.
Still vaping on coils I installed this time last year.
Still loving it.:headbang::toast::vapor:
 

Mactavish

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Hi everyone, just checking in to let you all know what I'm doing with Ti.

Still using it almost exclusively for TC.
Still dryburning it with tcr set to 00600 and temp set to 600°f.
Still using 24g exclusively.
Still vaping on coils I installed this time last year.
Still loving it.:headbang::toast::vapor:

You are still the TI MASTER!

I occasionally post the clip I saved from long ago for the titanium newbies:

TITANIUM DRY BURNING ON DNA-TCR MOD:

Posted by ECF member "Balazsk":

Program a curve with a TCR of 0.007. (0.00725 slightly hotter) and set the temperature to 572f/300c and assign it to an unused profile on the dna 200. Start at 10 watts, adjust higher if needed. On my Subtank Mini RBA, the two outer coil wires did not glow, but this was confirmed by another ECF member.

Max temperature will be limited to 1112f/600c (real) and you can pulse whatever you want and the coil will never be overheated to the point of forming TiO2... Gunk will fall off just like with a normal dry burn.
 

cigatron

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You are still the TI MASTER!

I occasionally post the clip I saved from long ago for the titanium newbies:

TITANIUM DRY BURNING ON DNA-TCR MOD:

Posted by ECF member "Balazsk":

Program a curve with a TCR of 0.007. (0.00725 slightly hotter) and set the temperature to 572f/300c and assign it to an unused profile on the dna 200. Start at 10 watts, adjust higher if needed. On my Subtank Mini RBA, the two outer coil wires did not glow, but this was confirmed by another ECF member.

Max temperature will be limited to 1112f/600c (real) and you can pulse whatever you want and the coil will never be overheated to the point of forming TiO2... Gunk will fall off just like with a normal dry burn.

Clipped and saved. Yes 00700 tcr not 00600 (typo). Thanks Mac
 

showman

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I like titanium and I would still be using it over SS today if I could truly get it to last months like you and others say. I only build fused claptons and when it comes time to clean and rewick it's such a hassle and scare for me to slowly and lightly pulse those Ti claptons (kanthal outer BTW) to get the gunk off without creating Ti oxide or destroying my coil. How do you clean your titanium builds??


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Please don't pulse or dry burn them. Dry-burning is pointless risk taking (even if it's not altogether clear that Titanium dioxide is particularly harmful), and it's also an extremely tedious and slow way to clean your coils. Luckily, I've discovered there is a much safer, better, and faster way (after trying dry-burning and being bewildered that anyone could possibly have the patience to do this, or can tolerate the noxious, disgusting fumes it produces.)

Buy some stainless steel brush coil cleaning tools for $2 (I'd recommend getting a bunch so you can replace them when the brushes lose their shape). I got mine here: Stainless Steel Silver Cleaning Tool / Brush for RDA Coil

The hard, thick steel brushes will wipe the carbon deposits off your coils in a few seconds. It's much faster and more convenient than the tedium of dry-burning, and without the risks. If you have $2 to spare, this is a much better way to clean off your titanium coils.
 

showman

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I know there's been a lot of trash talking on the Sweet Spot Vapors Titanium, but has anyone actually tried it? (I have not, I use Lightning Vapes Titanium 1). My interest was piqued when I heard it was Grade 2 Titanium, which is the kind of Titanium used for vaporizing Cannabis concentrates with Titanium nails (Grade 1 Titanium is considered too soft among such users, I'm told.)

Some people here seem to be under the impression that Grade 1 is purer than Grade 2; this simply isn't so. They are both "commercially pure" titaniums, as one can read here. Titanium Grades Information - Properties and Applications for all Titanium Alloys & Pure Grades - Supraalloys.com

One reads the same is the case on Wikipedia, and further, that STRENGTH INCREASES as one goes up the 4 "commercially pure" grades of 1-4: "Grades 1-4 are unalloyed and considered commercially pure or "CP". Generally the tensile and yield strength goes up with grade number for these "pure" grades."

As such, and considering that grade 2 Titanium has long been the material of choice for another form of vaporizing, long before Titanium began being used in e-cig applications, might it not be so crazy to think that SSV might have a product worth trying, if they are indeed supplying a grade 2 Titanium, which no one else seems to be? I have found no information showing me that Grade 1 is superior to Grade 2; on the contrary, I have found only that Grade 1 has superior "formability" while Grade 2 has superior "strength" and "hardness."

So to recapitulate, does anyone have experiences with this wire? Please, spare me the rants about "magic"; if they are indeed selling Grade 2 Titanium, as has been claimed here, they are offering a distinct product which may have different properties purely as a matter of physics, without any magical incantations needed. If anyone knows of a different Grade 2 Titanium wire source, I'd be interested to look into them as well, as I'd like to try a direct comparison between the grades. In my own experience, Grade 1 Ti is extremely soft unless one goes to an extremely low gauge, like 20 or perhaps 22, and I'd like to see if Grade 2 Titanium can be sourced at a reasonable price. If someone has evidence that Grade 1 is superior, as opposed to just softer than Grade 2, I'd be interested to see that as well. Thanks.
 

showman

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I honestly don't care anymore.

Someone said that if a person is deceived once, it's the deceiver's fault. If the person is, however, deceived a second time, it's on the person.

You can bring a camel to a water source but you sure can't make it drink from it.

I have another five popular proverbs about this but I don't care anymore.

We might not know what long term exposure to Ti will bring on us but why content with anything lower than grade 1?

Heck, those guys using titanium nails (I have no idea for what but they call it "recreational activities") have all switched from grade 2 to grade 1 years ago because of TiO2 formation and some of us are trying to go the opposite way in vaping?

Cheers
Tony

Hi Tony, you may or may not be correct that Ti 1 is better than Ti 2 for e-cigarette coils; but your statement that Titanium 1 is used by recreational users of concentrates is 100 percent false. I'm one such recreational user, and I have frequented vaporizing boards for concentrates for many years. In all that time, I've never seen anyone with a grade 1 Titanium nail, or even heard of one being sold. As far as I am able to tell, Grade 1 Ti nails do not exist; lore in the community is that Grade 1 Titanium is considered "too soft" for such applications.

To demonstrate, you'll see that "Grade 1 Titanium Nail" produces about 10,000 hits on Google, almost none of which link to an actual product from a real seller (a few extremely dubious Alibaba results from China, that's all); whereas 'Grade 2 Titanium Nail" produces 100,000 hits, with many from top US producers (Cali Crusher, Highly Educated, etc.).

I don't think the grades have the meaning you think they do. Grade 1 and 2 are both pure Titanium; but I believe Grade 1 has lower oxygen, and better formability, while Grade 2 is higher strength. If someone has links to a source showing why Grade 1 should be better, I'd be very grateful to see, as I'm a grade 1 user for my nicotine vaporizer coils, though I use a Grade 2 nail for vaporizing concentrates, and am curious to try Grade 2 for nicotine, unless anyone has some good reasons why I shouldn't.

It was my understanding that Grade 1 is the lowest of the 4 Commercially pure grades, not the highest (it is the cheapest, is it not?) and that ecig vaporizer users were only using Ti 1 because it is the only one available to them.
 

cigatron

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@showman, not sure about all that but the Grade 1 Ti I get from unkamen is pretty springy and tough. I have to anneal it prior to wrapping my coils to produce good uniformity. The TCR of that Ti is closer to correct than some other china Ti I've used based on temp settings.
I have no issues dryburning Ti with low wattage or a custom dryburn profile on my DNAs. Doesn't take any longer than dryburning kanthal, nichrome or any other vaping wire and I've had the same coils in one of my Aromamizers for over a year.
I love the stuff but have moved over to SS claptons as my primary coil type for a broader flavor spectrum and the ability to run in power mode when needed.
 

showman

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  • I use TI GR1
  • A quick dry burn is the quickest/simplest/easiest way to clean the coil of gunk
  • At a bit of a loss as to why more others don't use it

I've tried dry burning, but I didn't like it because it produces fumes, and it wasn't very simple. Seemed to take awhile to get everything clean. I found it's easier/faster to clean the Titanium coils with a steel brush with hard bristles that can get the gunk out from inside the spaces of the coils. I'm surprised anyone dry burns.

Personally, I use Ti Gr1 myself, purchased from Lightning Vape. I think Titanium is great; that's why I'm here.

I've never tried Grade 2 Titanium (aside from vaporizing with a nail for concentrates), but was just curious if anyone has, or if there is any other grade 2 wire on the market besides the SSV Titanium, which people here seem unfond of.
 
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showman

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@showman, not sure about all that but the Grade 1 Ti I get from unkamen is pretty springy and tough. I have to anneal it prior to wrapping my coils to produce good uniformity. The TCR of that Ti is closer to correct than some other china Ti I've used based on temp settings.
I have no issues dryburning Ti with low wattage or a custom dryburn profile on my DNAs. Doesn't take any longer than dryburning kanthal, nichrome or any other vaping wire and I've had the same coils in one of my Aromamizers for over a year.
I love the stuff but have moved over to SS claptons as my primary coil type for a broader flavor spectrum and the ability to run in power mode when needed.
@showman, not sure about all that but the Grade 1 Ti I get from unkamen is pretty springy and tough. I have to anneal it prior to wrapping my coils to produce good uniformity. The TCR of that Ti is closer to correct than some other china Ti I've used based on temp settings.
I have no issues dryburning Ti with low wattage or a custom dryburn profile on my DNAs. Doesn't take any longer than dryburning kanthal, nichrome or any other vaping wire and I've had the same coils in one of my Aromamizers for over a year.
I love the stuff but have moved over to SS claptons as my primary coil type for a broader flavor spectrum and the ability to run in power mode when needed.

A year is impressive! I'm not saying it takes longer to dry-burn kanthal or nichrome, but it takes longer than I have patience for, and I find the fumes or whatever you call the vapor it emits unpleasant. I'm surprised no one here seems to have tried manually cleaning with a hard bristled brush. It's pretty fast and easy
 
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cigatron

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A year is impressive! I'm not saying it takes longer to dry-burn kanthal or nichrome, but it takes longer than I have patience for, and I find the fumes or whatever you call the vapor it emits unpleasant. I'm surprised no one here seems to have tried manually cleaning with a hard bristled brush. It's pretty fast and easy
Have a link to the brush you're using? I'll try it.
 
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cigatron

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I think this is the one being used:
Stainless Steel Silver Cleaning Tool / Brush for RDA Coil
Not sure how it would reach under the coil, or inside.

My spaced coils are wound on a 6-32 machine screw. Not much room between the wraps with 24g Ti. Might be enough though.
IMG_20161030_084410_196-1.jpg
 

Mactavish

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First, it's not a big deal to dry burn a Ti coil if you know what your doing, own a DNA mod, or know how to set a TCR.

Secondly, I think if you do more searching, you might find that scratching with a metal brush the Ti coil may not be a good idea. People that do clean titanium surfaces recommend using a titanium brush, but this is not in the Ecig vaping world.

If you do use a wire brush, be careful none of the fine bristles, you may never see, don't get in your atomizer, as you could end up inhaling them into your lungs. Not something I'll be doing to save wire, or time.
 

GeorgeS

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    A year is impressive! I'm not saying it takes longer to dry-burn kanthal or nichrome, but it takes longer than I have patience for, and I find the fumes or whatever you call the vapor it emits unpleasant. I'm surprised no one here seems to have tried manually cleaning with a hard bristled brush. It's pretty fast and easy

    When your using AWG28 to AWG32 ANYTHING with something "stiff" is a waste of time. ;) I use Ukamen and Tempco Ti-01.

    As a +44yr smoker, outdoorsman and cook 10-15 seconds and a small "puff" of burnt residue seems like the easiest way to get your coils clean. Granted my unflavored coils only need dry burning every 4-6mo's so its no big issue.

    Lets see - pull wick - adjust mode - burn - find sink and rinse - rewick.

    Then if you use Silica rope like I do much of the time you don't even have to pull the wick!
     

    cigatron

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    If you do use a wire brush, be careful none of the fine bristles, you may never see, don't get in your atomizer, as you could end up inhaling them into your lungs. Not something I'll be doing to save wire, or time.

    Inhaling ss bristles doesn't sound like much fun. Think I'll just stick to dry burning.
     

    GeorgeS

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    Personally, I don't see what the whole back lash against TI is. I'm beginning to think it has no merit.

    IMHO a popular statement such as: "TI can only be used in TC mode".

    While I've yet to find a mod that in VW mode constantly monitors the coil resistance and adjusts power but if one did there could be a case of thermal run-a-way but for one thing: the wick we use and a human is inhaling on the output. I find it very unlikely that a VW mode user would be hitting on ANYTHING with coil temperatures remotely near TI-02 oxide creation as cotton and rayon would taste awful bad <=500F.

    When TC wire is used on fixed voltage (VV) and Mech mods the coil will automagically reduce power consumption as it heats up. Ti is no exception and because of the fairly high TCR it is one of the better wires to use. The same awful bad taste at <500F applies here as well. It is rather doubtful that any human would be hitting on it through their wick catching on fire and on to TI-02 oxide creation.

    Yes you can dry fire or dry burn (in both cases while not actually DRAWING on the atomizer) the wire to the point of creating TI-02 oxide on the coil however it is rather doubtful that anyone would be hitting on a TI coil at TI-02 creation temperatures.

    I dry burn my TI coils rather than rebuild them. I must be a "rebel without a clue" as I rarely if ever go through the minor effort to setup a special TCR. I just rinse my coils with water when done.

    Worse I've heard from many 'experts' who have posted in this thread is that the oxide MIGHT not be something you'd wish to consume a bunch of. (or something like that) Surely not the "Superman's Kryptonite" or "Causes Cancer" stuff that some might want us to believe.

    Ti continues to get a bad rap.
     
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