Titanium wire, vaping and safety

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HolmanGT

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Hmm, 6 wraps of 28g on 2.4mm coil gave me a much higher resistance.

Roxy,

What resistance did you come up with? Also what did you use to measure it one of those cheapy Atty meters or the mod itself?

Also you can always try it on your mod there is nothing to worry about it will not harm the mod. The worst thing that can happen is the mod will say "Nah I don't like that please try again"... well ok maybe it won't say please. ;)
 

HolmanGT

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Well, surprisingly I just checked steam engine and it's spot on for 28g titanium and just a hair off for 0.34mm (28g should be 0.322mm)

My nickel coils are way off predicted values (they come out lower R)

Regards
Tony

Tony,

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.

I think I mentioned this to you but for the benefit of others I compared Steam-Engine Ni200 resistance values and there is a considerable difference between what they say and what Temco says.

Unfortunately I don't remember which was higher but I plugged the Temco values into my spread sheet and usually get better results with it than what Steam-Engine says.

Caveat: The above comments are only for Ni200 I have not checked Temco values against any other metal.
 

roxynoodle

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I used my USA ohm meter, which seems very close to both sx minis.

I don't remember the exact value on the 6 wrap coil, but I'm pretty sure it was about 0.4 ohm. And steam engine did tell me it would be lower than it was. SE also told me 4 wraps would be 0.25, but I got 0.319. I remember that one because that's when I gave up :D
 

tchavei

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I would like you guys and gals give me an opinion on something:

Say I anneal a piece of titanium wire to make it less springy. I make a 6 or 7 wrap full contact coil and heat press it together... Would it be enough to wash and scrub it to get rid of the majority of oxide?

After having worked with titanium, I'm pretty sure a full contact coil would be even longer lasting and even sturdier to survive multiple rewicks... I just would like to minimize the oxide that comes with torching it.

Btw, I think there is another benefit in using titanium... With nickel we are doing very long coils (10, 12 wraps) which then causes a significant part of the coil staying off the air hole where it gets cooled down during each draw. You can see that after a few days, the center part of the coil is darker than the outside which is usually still shiny or yellow. This means the coil sees different temperatures along it's length.

With titanium, by making a shorter coil, the entire length can be being cooled through the air hole which should give more consistent average temperatures.

Finally... I upped the temp to 170c ( 338F) still a great vape :)

Regards
Tony

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Rossum

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Say I anneal a piece of titanium wire to make it less springy. I make a 6 or 7 wrap full contact coil and heat press it together... Would it be enough to wash and scrub it to get rid of the majority of oxide?

After having worked with titanium, I'm pretty sure a full contact coil would be even longer lasting and even sturdier to survive multiple rewicks... I just would like to minimize the oxide that comes with torching it.
I'm confused. You want to anneal it to make it less springy. Then you want to make a full contact coil so it will survive multiple re-wickings? And you want to scrub it? :confused:

I don't think you'll have any problem with re-wicking titanium coils; they hold up as well or better than Kanthal.

I really don't suggest squeezing it into a full contact coil. A bit of spacing will give you better juice flow from the wick to the outside of the coil and let you go longer between re-wicking.
 

tchavei

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I'm confused. You want to anneal it to make it less springy. Then you want to make a full contact coil so it will survive multiple re-wickings? And you want to scrub it? :confused:

I don't think you'll have any problem with re-wicking titanium coils; they hold up as well or better than Kanthal.

I really don't suggest squeezing it into a full contact coil. A bit of spacing will give you better juice flow from the wick to the outside of the coil and let you go longer between re-wicking.
I just want to touch it many times.. Yeah, I'm a pervert, I know [emoji14]

Now really, I was thinking about making a full contact coil like we used to do it in 2014. The oxide layer should isolate each wrap so the mod wouldn't get all messed up and it would provide further stability. Only problems I see with it is that it's springy and it doesn't really want to hold the exact intended shape unless I torch it... That brings the second problem... It will create even more oxide right?

I don't know... I just was thinking out loud :)

Regards
Tony

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tchavei

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It is springy. I was surprised by how much. That may have led to my off resistances as I felt I wasn't wrapping as tightly.
I will repeat a pic but just for comparison.

All were made on the same mandrel (3mm turnbuckle (2.5mm final id)).

This is 30g tempered nickel:

ce611b1c9083a2ab7775647789f47797.jpg


This is 28g tempered nickel :

725498b969278680bfe2105fa76ee116.jpg


This is 28g titanium grade 1:

d2c848bdd15649fc575765916bc4b557.jpg


The titanium didn't came out anything like the nickel... Springy.

Regards
Tony

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tchavei

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I just did the water test...

It's useless.

Temp set to 165C (329F)
Wicked coil under running water

Result: 99C with occasional jump to 100C (210-212F) just like nickel. It's actually scary how precise these chips are.

Anyway, at 330F it feels like 430F... Good enough for me and doesn't scorch the wick when dry (tested that too)

Regards
Tony

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Rossum

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I just did the water test...

It's useless.

Temp set to 165C (329F)
Wicked coil under running water

Result: 99C with occasional jump to 100C (210-212F) just like nickel. It's actually scary how precise these chips are.

Anyway, at 330F it feels like 430F... Good enough for me and doesn't scorch the wick when dry (tested that too)

Regards
Tony
Tony, be explicit, which mod is this? Most people own more than one. ;)
 

Rossum

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Lol.

It's a dna 40.

Regards
Tony
Thanks. The reason I asked is there's a certain European modder who has a vaporware temp-control mod that will only work with titanium, who keeps saying things like "DNA40 is not accurate" and "DNA40 can't work with titanium". Of course I know he's wrong, and now you do too! :D
 

tchavei

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Thanks. The reason I asked is there's a certain European modder who has a vaporware temp-control mod that will only work with titanium, who keeps saying things like "DNA40 is not accurate" and "DNA40 can't work with titanium". Of course I know he's wrong, and now you do too! :D
I know it for a long time... There was a certain... How should I say it... conflict on a certain English EU forum about that subject to the point threads were being deleted at the speed they were created and half the forum got on the fight and well... It was messy :)

Titanium got a bad rap there because it was wrongly used to dismiss all those claims.

In Germany they love Ti. It's much better accepted there than here.

Regards
Tony

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tchavei

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Interesting. Guess where I'm originally from? I've been in the US for close to 50 years now though.

was born in Munich & raised in Seehausen, came to the states when i was 6.....small world.

Moved there at age 10 (days) (Stuttgart), returned at age 10 (years)

Really small world. :D

Regards
Tony

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