Titanium wire, vaping and safety

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Mactavish

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I honestly don't care anymore.

Someone said that if a person is deceived once, it's the deceiver's fault. If the person is, however, deceived a second time, it's on the person.

You can bring a camel to a water source but you sure can't make it drink from it.

I have another five popular proverbs about this but I don't care anymore.

We might not know what long term exposure to Ti will bring on us but why content with anything lower than grade 1?

Heck, those guys using titanium nails (I have no idea for what but they call it "recreational activities") have all switched from grade 2 to grade 1 years ago because of TiO2 formation and some of us are trying to go the opposite way in vaping?

Cheers
Tony

The saying is: "Fool me once shame on you, fool me twice, shame on me".

I do care, for all the reasons mentioned in this thread as well as other informed web sites, titanium as a wire choice as of today is the best choice. But it still seems to lack in popularity compared to some of the other choices, and as consumers this is not good, less competition in terms of choices and prices. Note, that the huge Chinese company, Kanger, still does NOT offer a titanium pre-built coil option. Let's continue to spread the word, so folks are not scared off using titanium for the wrong reasons, it benefits all of us believers!
 
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cigatron

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I honestly don't care anymore.

Someone said that if a person is deceived once, it's the deceiver's fault. If the person is, however, deceived a second time, it's on the person.

You can bring a camel to a water source but you sure can't make it drink from it.............
Cheers
Tony

Over hear on our side of the pond it's:

Fool me once, shame on you; fool me twice, shame on me.

You can lead a horse to water but you can't make it drink.

Same concept with different verbiage.

I agree with all here who have expressed the thought that vaping gr2 ti is ridiculous with gr1 being so readily available.
 
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WharfRat1976

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What bad wire are we talking about?

Okay, put this 26gTi(unky), 2.5MMID 16/15 dualy on my Stumpy clone I just got. Came in at .248. Stuffed it full of rayon an Got Dang it's a beast. Ti and Rayon is hands above all else right now....for this vapor.
52e3dbfdad8d3d45796d568a233ae6a2.jpg
e673f064b4ba6896837f0bfb6caab90f.jpg
c84d7b086a13b791e5562970bbf17778.jpg
 

soulseek

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Phil has no background to be able to know whether what he's being told is true or not. Unfortunately even though these folks BS has been exposed over and over they don't let the truth get in the way of continuing to spout technical gobledegook and overcharge their customers. Maybe someone will let Phil know he's being taken advantage of. I'm sure he doesn't intend to mislead anyone.

Duane

I've already contacted him and described what the issue is here. Since, it's a quite complex matter I linked this thread; hopefully he will get around to reading it some time.
 

tchavei

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I've already contacted him and described what the issue is here. Since, it's a quite complex matter I linked this thread; hopefully he will get around to reading it some time.
I wouldn't hold my breath but it will be interesting to see what speaks higher... Money or reason.
 

Mactavish

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I've already contacted him and described what the issue is here. Since, it's a quite complex matter I linked this thread; hopefully he will get around to reading it some time.

I wrote Phil a month a go about this issue, never heard back. I understand due to his website he gets lots of emails and is probably very busy.
 
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Mactavish

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What bad wire are we talking about?

Okay, put this 26gTi(unky), 2.5MMID 16/15 dualy on my Stumpy clone I just got. Came in at .248. Stuffed it full of rayon an Got Dang it's a beast. Ti and Rayon is hands above all else right now....for this vapor.
52e3dbfdad8d3d45796d568a233ae6a2.jpg
e673f064b4ba6896837f0bfb6caab90f.jpg
c84d7b086a13b791e5562970bbf17778.jpg

Got the same one a week a go, I also bought a Manta clone, which so far I like a little better. I normally prefer originals, but since I've never owned any dripper RDA's I figured decent clones are the best way to try them out, as the he costs for the real ones can be 5x as much. Here is an original I'm tempted to buy as it's less then $30, and is postless:
Hannya RDA Rebuildable Atomizer by Blitz Enterprises

Still trying to learn how much or how little cotton to use for drippers. Been using 24 gauge "rio", 6-7 3mm single coil Titanium so far.
 
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cigatron

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Got the same one a week a go, I also bought a Manta clone, which so far I like a little better. I normally prefer originals, but since I've never owned any dripper RDA's I figured decent clones are the best way to try them out, as the he costs for the real ones can be 5x as much. Here is an original I'm tempted to buy as it's less then $30, and is postless:
Hannya RDA Rebuildable Atomizer by Blitz Enterprises

Still trying to learn how much or how little cotton to use for drippers. Been using 24 gauge "rio", 6-7 3mm single coil Titanium so far.

Wicking rdas isn't too tricky. Lots of cotton is the key for high power in any atty really. The more cotton the more saturated the wick stays so the more power you can throw at it. Not sure what power levels you're wanting to run.

I build all my rdas with spaced 24g KA1 or Ti dual coils. 2.78mm 6wrap. I wick them pretty densely by rolling down the wick until I feel it starting to resist further compression then when I insert it I have to pull it from both sides to get it narrowed enough to go through the coil. I cut the tails long enough so that each one almost meets in the middle under the coil on the juice deck. No thinning. Power levels for this wicking technique run from 60-105w, juice and airflow dependant.
 
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GeorgeS

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    I use Unkamen wire. If it is dirty off the spool it will surely be dirty after I've spread my finger moisture+oils all over it while coiling. (Read: I don't bother cleaning it)

    Once wound and mounted some pulsing may be in order to resolve hot spots (contact coil) or heat a non-contact coil enough so ceramic tweezers can be used to squeeze them together and hold afterwards.
    (hence, creating a contact coil from a spaced coil)

    If you allow the wire to get hot enough, you might find your coil has a thin white coating. No it is not radioactive or krypton for us super vapors and yes if you left it on there it would likely come off while vaping however it is fairly simple to turn on a water tap and douse the coil in the water stream. A quick rinse and a few stiff shakes to knock the water off and you'll likely find a nice clean and ready to wick coil.

    If you heat Ti wire hot enough it will ignite. (I've done this with both a torch and a hot leg or two) No - I did not burn down my house, create a hole to china or anything of the sort. In all cases the wire stopped glowing on its own fairly quickly. Really no big deal.

    Personally I can't "taste" any difference in any of the wire types I've used. I regularly use Ti wire to rebuild my Aspire K1 heads and I keep a few Lemo2's with Ti builds.

    I swear that some folks like to needlessly over complicate things.
     

    Mactavish

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    Wicking rdas isn't too tricky. Lots of cotton is the key for high power in any atty really. The more cotton the more saturated the wick stays so the more power you can throw at it. Not sure what power levels you're wanting to run.

    I build all my rdas with spaced 24g KA1 or Ti dual coils. 2.78mm 6wrap. I wick them pretty densely by rolling down the wick until I feel it starting to resist further compression then when I insert it I have to pull it from both sides to get it narrowed enough to go through the coil. I cut the tails long enough so that each one almost meets in the middle under the coil on the juice deck. No thinning. Power levels for this wicking technique run from 60-105w, juice and airflow dependant.

    I mostly do TC vaping on a DNA200, same build as yours, but on a 3mm ID. 470-500 degrees, 25 watts gets me to temp almost immediately. Single coils for now, but will soon try duals, but most likely go from 24 gauge Ti, to 26 or 28 to fit more wire and get the resistance right. I kept reading about LESS cotton being better, but some of those tips are for bottom feed atties, where you can rejuice with a quick squonk, less is fine on my Chalice on my Reo Mini 14500, but on dripping RDA's, it seems it's an entirely different ballgame. I've watched videos on Scottish roll, sushi roll, etc. I'm going back to more cotton, switched to Native Wicks PIMA, a few weeks a go, while I like it, it does NOT compress as much as KGD, so it's a bit harder to feed, even through 3mm Ti coils. I'm sure one great benefit of more cotton is more Vape time between dripping, but sometimes I think I'm getting less flavor through all the extra cotton, guess it's a balancing act.
     

    softarno

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    Hi guys I have question here I am new to Titanium wires, anyways after reading and searching I ordered some Ti Wire By Sweet Spot Vapors, but while am checking one of the YouTube reviews and some commenting that these wire will work perfect on DNA200 and not going to be ok with SX, I have SX350J 150W with Ti updates, so my question is that true the Ti wire by sweet spot will not work on my SX? and if yes what can be don't or I just don't use them at all.. any help will be appreciated
     

    KenD

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    Hi guys I have question here I am new to Titanium wires, anyways after reading and searching I ordered some Ti Wire By Sweet Spot Vapors, but while am checking one of the YouTube reviews and some commenting that these wire will work perfect on DNA200 and not going to be ok with SX, I have SX350J 150W with Ti updates, so my question is that true the Ti wire by sweet spot will not work on my SX? and if yes what can be don't or I just don't use them at all.. any help will be appreciated

    The sweet spot wire isn't grade 1, which is really what you want. I'm thinking it should work with the SX with a temperature offset. However, the SS basically lie to their customers in order to overprice the wrong type of wire. Don't support them in the future.

    Sent from my M7_PLUS using Tapatalk
     

    Buurz

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    Agreed, but he likes to mention how much research he does, and is dropping the ball when it comes to learning more about wires, especially before making blind recommendations simply because he was sent some free wire. The attempt at providing TCR files is noble, and all wire makers should follow suit for transparency reasons even though those here know how to get a proper file off SteamEngine. New TC vapors most likely are ignorant of this, and watch his reviews and then buy this product.

    TCR file that Sweet Spot provides is just Ti Gr2 TCR that you can download from steam-engine.org


    EDIT: and like I mentioned a few pages back, it seems to me that this TCR is either wrong or that the wire has thermodynamic properties that cause rutile formation at much lower temperatures compared to other wires.
     
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    Reflections

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    I have a question that may be your problem because my evic does a similar thing with any coil and the problem is the mod. If you read the evic VTC mini thread there are quite a few people with the same problems. The issue is when you put a atomizer on the evic let's say it locks in at .15 and you lock it and vape for a little while then either when it goes to sleep mode or sometimes instantly it will drop .01 or .02 leading to a weak vape. This may not be your issue I just figured I would let you know to look out for that. The work around that works for a bunch of people with broken evics is to put them in ni200 mode with titanium and drop the temp 100f or so. For some reason the device locks in correctly and stays there. This may not be your case but it would lead to a very anemic vape.

    Ok thanks. Will give it a try.sioey for the late reply as I was away for holiday.
     

    Oxymoran

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    If you allow the wire to get hot enough, you might find your coil has a thin white coating. No it is not radioactive or krypton for us super vapors and yes if you left it on there it would likely come off while vaping however it is fairly simple to turn on a water tap and douse the coil in the water stream. A quick rinse and a few stiff shakes to knock the water off and you'll likely find a nice clean and ready to wick coil.

    This is perfect. Treat it like kanthal, rinse it off. Worked like a charm, thanks!

    I don't think I saw much if any dioxide even form but I rinsed it off anyway just to be sure.
     
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