Tobacco extraction using heated Ethanol
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Writing this down
I hope I'm being helpful, that's my intent anyway.
I've started an extraction (with 151 proof) so that I can post pics/comments for each step of the process. There are tricks-of-the-trade for each step that aren't in the "Readers Digest" version of the posted instructions. Some of these tips only apply to pint sized (or larger) extractions like the one you're performing. If I may offer a couple of suggestions, if you have enough ethanol on-hand get a second jar of Louisiana Red filled and hot extract both jars at the same time. I know since this is your first extraction you want/need to make some NET as soon as possible. I assume your first jar will be freeze filtered soon after the hot extraction is complete and you've separated the tobacco and solvent. The first jar should yield enough extract to make many months worth of NET. What I suggest is after the hot extraction is complete, tightly seal the second jar, put it in a dark place, and let it sit at room temperature for a few weeks (or longer) for an even deeper flavor extraction.
I will definitely do that. After I do the hot extraction and first filtration, it needs to stay in the freezer for 3 days, hopefully my good filters will be here by then. If not then the freezer step will last a few days more.
I will definitely do that. After I do the hot extraction and first filtration, it needs to stay in the freezer for 3 days, hopefully my good filters will be here by then. If not then the freezer step will last a few days more.
Since you're performing a relatively large extraction (pint sized) and might be waiting on the filters for a few days, you could reduce your extract before freeze filtering it. I normally reduce large extractions before freeze filtering them. If you decide to do so, I'll explain the best way to reduce extract that still has oil and wax in it (it's a little more difficult than reducing freeze filtered extract). You'll end up with a higher performing (cleaner) extract and already have that step out of the way by the time your filters arrive.
I’m just going to stick to the road I’m on for now. I don’t see how it can hurt to let it sit in the freezer for a extra 2 days I think I might do one more extra filtration, since I am doing a larger batch.
So I will do 4 instead of 3. How does that sound?
I think I might do one more extra filtration, since I am doing a larger batch.So I will do 4 instead of 3. How does that sound?
I’m confused..... I thought after it got done in the crockpot pot and cooled down, I leave it opened with a fan to reduce.
So there is another way?
Thanks that's fantastic news.
Just ordered me some sieves, hydrometer and lab filters. Now to survive the waiting....
If you follow the updated step-by-step guide I posted on page 59 the reduction step takes place after the extract has been freeze filtered. This is because most people perform small extractions (yielding <120ml of extract) and with such small amounts of extract to work with it's far more practical to reduce it after the freeze filtering process. It's also the easiest way. But there is a different way.
When working with larger amounts of extract, new options become available, like reducing the extract before it has been freeze filtered. Reduction before freeze filtering will produce a cleaner extract because more gunk will precipitate out of a reduced/concentrated extract. This results in a higher performance (cleaner) NET.
This is one of several tricks-of-the-trade I don't mention in the basic step-by-step guide and for good reason. Reduction before freeze filtering is more difficult to accomplish due to the oils and wax present in the extract before it has been freeze filtered. Inside a canning jar the oil quickly forms a thin skim on the surface of the extract that prohibits evaporation. Nearly transparent, it can be difficult to see but it's there. Instead of reducing the extract inside a jar, it should be poured into a wide, shallow container and set in front of a fan. This creates a significantly larger surface area that the oil skim has trouble sealing. The fan creates a disturbance on the surface of the extract that helps prevent skimming. Here's a pic showing 500ml of extract being reduced to ~150ml before being freeze filtered;
Once reduced the condensed extract is then freeze filtered to remove the oil, wax and other impurities (gunk). After freeze filtering is complete and the extract has warmed to room temperature it's ready for the final filtering and can then be mixed into NET.
....Just ordered me some sieves, hydrometer and lab filters. Now to survive the waiting....
I look forward to hearing your thoughts after using the molecular sieves, would be valuable information for this thread especially considering the number of people around the globe that can't obtain PGA.
I am kind of wondering what material these sieve beads made from. I have seen a few videos of them being used, and all of the residual powder dust left in suspension. I suspose that if you are going to filter it to 2 microns you will catch most of it, but is what gets through the filter safe to vape? The web sites I have seen give no indication of what they are made of. Are they food grade certified? Can ya smoke sieve beads...? Haha
Good questions, I had the same thoughts and concerns after watching the video.
From an MSDS on 3A molecular sieves:
Zeolite type; Synthetic Zeolite. Zeolite is a
hydrated silicate of aluminum and either sodium or calcium.
May contain up to 3% quartz. Synthetic zeolites are made
either by a gel process (sodium silicate and alumina) or
clay process (Kaolin)
Doesn't appear to be overly toxic but I definitely wouldn't want the dust/residue from the sieves to remain in the finished ethanol. Judging by the video the dust is pretty heavy so, in a sealed container, I'd allow the dust to settle for a day or two. Then I'd carefully pour the ethanol (leaving most of the sediment behind) through a lab filter. I'd do this -before- using the ethanol for extraction purposes.
I surely will report back. I got soooo much from this thread, it'll be my pleasure to give my little bit back...I look forward to hearing your thoughts after using the molecular sieves, would be valuable information for this thread especially considering the number of people around the globe that can't obtain PGA.
The experimental 12 hour hot extraction using 151 proof PGA (75% ethanol 25% water) is finished. I poured off 30ml of the extract for immediate freeze filtering but sealed the rest and will allow it to soak for a few weeks at room temperature for a deeper flavor extraction before proceeding. One thing I noticed was the aroma, it smelled like a hot PG based extraction (woody, musty, wet tobacco), nothing like an ethanol based. This doesn't please me but I'll reserve judgment until I've tasted the NET it produces. If all goes well the 30ml I have in the freezer should be ready to mix in about a week.
Str8vision,
I was wondering what "blend" you were extracting on this latest test? Is it one that you have done in the past and will be able to do a side-by-side flavor comparison?
I was wondering what "blend" you were extracting on this latest test? Is it one that you have done in the past and will be able to do a side-by-side flavor comparison?
Let's address separating the tobacco from solvent after the extraction is complete.
Here are some pics showing how to separate the tobacco/solvent the way the basic step-by-step guide describes. You can click on each pic to enlarge it;
This way works well for extractions of less than 1 ounce of tobacco.
NOTE: For larger extractions involving 1 ounce or more, the coffee filter will simply be too small to hold and properly encapsulate all the tobacco. If the filter is packed too full it'll be prone to rupture when squeezed. Using additional coffee filters won't really help because, being dry and absorbent, the new filter will just soak up most of the extract you manage to squeeze out.
For a short period of time I used a nylon mesh nut milk bag for squeezing saturated tobacco. They're fairly inexpensive ($8), washable/reusable and they don't absorb extract (although some does cling to the fabric). You can fit a lot of tobacco inside one.
These days I don't "hand" squeeze tobacco anymore. I use a large Stainless Steel potato ricer ($16) like this one;
I pour most of the the loose extract into the coffee filter (like in the first pic above) being careful to leave most of the tobacco inside the jar. While holding the ricer over the coffee filter, I dump the tobacco inside it. I then apply pressure to the handle quickly recovering extract from the saturated tobacco. Afterward, I discard the spent tobacco. Because of its mechanical advantage, the ricer can easily exert 10X more force than hand squeezing can.
Of course a person doesn't have to recover the extract that is held in the saturated tobacco. By my best guesstimate on average there's only about 10ml of recoverable extract contained in each ounce of extracted tobacco. Some types of tobacco hold more, some hold less.
Here are some pics showing how to separate the tobacco/solvent the way the basic step-by-step guide describes. You can click on each pic to enlarge it;
This way works well for extractions of less than 1 ounce of tobacco.
NOTE: For larger extractions involving 1 ounce or more, the coffee filter will simply be too small to hold and properly encapsulate all the tobacco. If the filter is packed too full it'll be prone to rupture when squeezed. Using additional coffee filters won't really help because, being dry and absorbent, the new filter will just soak up most of the extract you manage to squeeze out.
For a short period of time I used a nylon mesh nut milk bag for squeezing saturated tobacco. They're fairly inexpensive ($8), washable/reusable and they don't absorb extract (although some does cling to the fabric). You can fit a lot of tobacco inside one.
These days I don't "hand" squeeze tobacco anymore. I use a large Stainless Steel potato ricer ($16) like this one;
I pour most of the the loose extract into the coffee filter (like in the first pic above) being careful to leave most of the tobacco inside the jar. While holding the ricer over the coffee filter, I dump the tobacco inside it. I then apply pressure to the handle quickly recovering extract from the saturated tobacco. Afterward, I discard the spent tobacco. Because of its mechanical advantage, the ricer can easily exert 10X more force than hand squeezing can.
Of course a person doesn't have to recover the extract that is held in the saturated tobacco. By my best guesstimate on average there's only about 10ml of recoverable extract contained in each ounce of extracted tobacco. Some types of tobacco hold more, some hold less.
Old Joe Krantz (one of my favorites) and yes I'll be doing a side by side taste comparison. The only thing is the NET I'll be comparing it to is well aged which gives it a distinct flavor advantage, I'll have to extrapolate.Awesome! Thank you.
Could just get the filters wet with alcohol prior to using them for extract filtration thus decreasing the loss of extract?
I used $1 pair of pantyhose from dollar general to squeeze out my large batch of tobacco.
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