Triple wick coil

Status
Not open for further replies.

Bishopheals

Reviewer / Blogger
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
May 23, 2012
2,266
1,771
49
Staten Island
www.youtube.com
@ RiverNut

If the wire fell off then you will need to make a new coil. When I’m in the process of changing my juice I take Penelope apart and wash it out. The wick if its color black and burnt I tend to get a bad feeling adding fresh juice to a wick in that condition. So i remove it from base and pull the wick gently out. if the wick is still wet with water it should automatically break and come off without damaging the coil. inspect the coil, wash it a bit see if you can remove some of the black charcoal residue, do this gently since the coil is a little fragile. now you can run your fingers through it to straighten it out a little not to much since its going to be re coiled. now with 3 new wicks start wrapping the coil around it and as you do one turn tighten it a little and hold it down with your apposite hand holding metal and wick then other hand wrap another coil and pull gently then use other hand to hold it in place as you continue the procedure. Remember to leave the longer side of the nonresistant wire for the channel with the ceramic side and short side of the resistance wire for the metal channel side. So far i was able to do this 3 times. On the 4th time It seems to die on me.

If your using one type of juice it’s always good to check the wick no and then maybe before the 5th refill to see how it’s doing. if it’s real black chances are you can get a better taste and vape just replacing the wick and re using the coil. At least this can save you some money on coils.

As for soldering that's fine. the initial wire that came with Penelope is already Soldered. you should do what ever of the two practices works best for you. I prefer the tie method. Its fast and pretty reliable, soldering is a bit over kill.
 

Ezkill

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Jun 26, 2012
2,306
2,642
Los Angeles
Kind of a follow up question just to see what people are doing.

Are you guys wrapping the joins around the wick or are you putting the joined part in the channels?
Yes I know that obviously ALL resistance wire needs to be on the wick and not in the channel. I'm talking about the actual joins in the wire. To me they can either be wrapped partially around the wick or almost entirely in the channel. I'm finding it doesn't make a difference either way. I haven't had any shorts or problems. For me the worst part is always the negative wire. Sometimes it really doesn't like to stay under the wick upon initial assembly. That being said I've never had it come out once I do get it under the wick.
 

Ezkill

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Jun 26, 2012
2,306
2,642
Los Angeles
I actually try to loop my first bend over the wicks so that one side has no joins in the channel and the other side is random.

Other then the binding on the way back up I'm pretty issue free. I have no idea if that's still happening as I've used the same coils for the last couple days.

Really my only consistent issue is that the negative channel wire sometimes doesn't like to be in the channel at first and I need to get in there with some fine needle nose pliers and coerce it under the wick. That being said after the coils is made and installed it never comes back out. Once I get it seated properly and get a little juice on the wick it won't come out.
 

Bishopheals

Reviewer / Blogger
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
May 23, 2012
2,266
1,771
49
Staten Island
www.youtube.com
if you look at picture 2 where you see the 3 wicks hanging on the ceramic top. I have the two non resistance wire hang straight down the two channels against the walls respectively. the channel with the non metal gets wrapped on the center post. the other non resistance just goes halfway against the wall of the metal channel. Then I push the wicks against the two walls. of the channel and use the metal ring to seal it a quarter way so i can hold it together in place so I can cut the excessive wick flush to center post before screwing it to base. once screwed to post and center is showing a little out of the 510 connector that's when i finish screwing the metal ring to the base. (i found using a paper towel on each hand easier to screw this in without threading your fingers. same goes to applying the nut to center post.

Tomorrow Ill take some pictures to show you.
 
Last edited:

Ezkill

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Jun 26, 2012
2,306
2,642
Los Angeles
No need for pictures. I'm doing the same thing.

My question was more about were you join the resistance and non resistance. The part that's twisted together. There are really only two options for that part.

1) You wrap a bit of it around the wick
2) You have the vast majority of the twisted together part in the channels and not on the wick itself. Making sure all resistance wire is on the wick and not in the channel.

It's more of a technique question. Both methods work with 0 problems and I can't tell the difference. I was more wondering what people were doing.
 

Bishopheals

Reviewer / Blogger
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
May 23, 2012
2,266
1,771
49
Staten Island
www.youtube.com
No need for pictures. I'm doing the same thing.

My question was more about were you join the resistance and non resistance. The part that's twisted together. There are really only two options for that part.

1) You wrap a bit of it around the wick
2) You have the vast majority of the twisted together part in the channels and not on the wick itself. Making sure all resistance wire is on the wick and not in the channel.



It's more of a technique question. Both methods work with 0 problems and I can't tell the difference. I was more wondering what people were doing.

Ok I see, to answer your question. 1) You wrap a bit of it around the wick

When I create a coil that has no solder I do the following:

I like to wrap the part of the R Wire and NR Wire only 1 loop if possible around the wick so it’s about a quarter showing on top of the ceramic cup and the exposed NR wire can be pulled down flush to the channels. To accomplish this task the length used to twist the R Wire and NR Wire need to be no more than 4-5 twists. More than that will cause a longer length and you really won’t be able to coil that if you are using my 3 wick method (if you solder the two R/NR wires then disregard). Once you did the 4 twists and you bend the NR wire and loop it 4-6 times and keep it snugged you’re ready to apply it to the 3 wicks.

Once you Coil it on the wicks slowly and snug it coil the two NR and R wires join points around wick one time and then place it on the ceramic cup. Inspect the wires and see if you got more than half on wick. If join points are more than half on ceramic cup and wick then your good and can continue finishing up build process.
 

JthaBigVapor

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Mar 16, 2012
1,038
315
Florida
He wants to do it soon too... I went up to him yesterday and was like...

"Ok... My Penelope is empty... if we have the time today... I purpose.... A triple wick making session..."

LOL

I mixed me up Boca Breeze at 12 - 13ish nic :p

I am letting it steep and then its wick makin time... if I am impatient I might do it tonight.. or maybe I will set an early alarm and do it... or maybe after work if I am patient.

UGH!
 

Bishopheals

Reviewer / Blogger
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
May 23, 2012
2,266
1,771
49
Staten Island
www.youtube.com
For 1ohms im having problems keeping it fired up past 5.8volts without getting a error on my provari. As for the jucie consumption its a juice hog at those settings and with that ohm setting with high volts. You have to keep leaving the flow control open or it will dry the wick in seconds. Thats even on a 3 wick setup I can imagine how fast it will dry on a 1 or 2 wick setup.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Users who are viewing this thread