Vaporshark DNA

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Gonzi

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My XPV is a 20. At present I don't see the need for more power than that. Even with dual coils in the Squape that's usually on top of it, I'm happy at 10-12 watts.

I don't see any need for it either, but I've wanted a dna mod for quite some time and the 30 seemed like a no brainer. I think you are more that set up at the moment having both.
 

Nomoreash

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One thing that I forgot to mention, I've read somewhere that with the DNA30 you do have the option of locking in your watt setting so you don't accidentaly up it. I'll have to wait till mine comes in to confirm or read from others that are already using the DNA30.

Yes, with the DNA30 the voltage can be locked and unlocked by pressing both the up and down button at the same time for a few seconds. That's an upgraded feature over the DNA20.
 

jameth

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Hey Jameth, what ever happened to those pictures?

I have been a little busy the last few days so it has been put on hold for a bit.

Also I decided to go a little further with it, and remove the raised cube and rim around it, as well as the the raised part around the allen bolts.

Basically it's going to be smooth and flat on both sides.

I am gonna polish it initially, but may end up doing some other kind of finish on it in the future.

I will get a pic of it up in it's current state tomorrow, I left it at my office today.
 

joeaux

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My XPV is a 20. At present I don't see the need for more power than that. Even with dual coils in the Squape that's usually on top of it, I'm happy at 10-12 watts.

Wait. Dual coils on a Squape?! Do tell how do you do it? There's so little room in that sucker. I use a microcoil and cotton build in mine and it's great but I'd love to give dual coils a try! Thanks. Oh and sorry for hijacking the thread for a sec. ;)
 

Rossum

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Wait. Dual coils on a Squape?! Do tell how do you do it? There's so little room in that sucker. I use a microcoil and cotton build in mine and it's great but I'd love to give dual coils a try! Thanks.
See my post here in the Squape thread.

There's another guy on a UK forum that has done side-by-side duals, but I suspect that's more difficult, and I haven't tried it. To be perfectly honest, I'm liking the Russian 91% I recently picked up better than my Squape; my sense is the Squape just doesn't flow enough air and I'm reluctant to take a drill to it.
 

Rossum

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Well, the Squape was my primary atty for 3-4 weeks (which is longer than anything else has ever lasted as a primary for me). It was a terrific atty to learn to build on. But then I got a Russian 91%. I actually wanted a KFL+ but couldn't find one that I could be confident was genuine. Anyway, the Russian is now my primary atty and the Squape has been taking a break on the side-lines because I only have one mod suitable for a "full sized" (22mm diameter) atty, and it ain't the Vaporshark.

Of course the Vaporshark is perfectly capable of driving either a Squape or a KFL/Russian but the resulting overhang on 3 sides bothers me, so my Vaporshark is currently adorned with an Aerotank that has the head rebuilt with a single micro-coil and cotton wicking, which provides a surprisingly good vape.

Some people look at me funny when I tell 'em that I rebuild the heads for that. I suppose they're wondering why somebody who can afford the stuff I vape from would rebuild Kanger heads instead of just buying new ones for the couple of bucks they cost. Well, I don't do it to save money, I do it because I like the results and I have yet to come across a 19mm device that works better. I had high hopes for a Sophia in a 19mm tank, but I'm not getting much joy from the pre-built coils that came with it and the NR-R-NR wires I've ordered aren't here yet.
 

Peppie

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I can join the crowd here at Vapor Shark owners.
Just pulled the trigger on the new 30, ordered an extra cable. One for home, One for the truck.
Been doing as much research as I can find available. Based on that, I think I have made a smart buy.
I have a couple of smaller diam. atties that will fit a bit better than the standard K-funs or 22mm drippers.
One of them being the Helios dripper, Immortalizer. I also have a couple 19mm IBTanked carto's to try.
Anyone have a pic of the K-Fun Mini on top the VS.

Site said it would ship no later than 2-20-14.
Looking forward to posting up some pics of my DNA, for the simple fact of it will be in my hand and firing coils . LOL
 

yellowrider

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New vaporshark 20 owner here and have a question..
My ohm reader only reads .9ohms on everything..Currently running pt2 with stock 2.2 head and shows .9ohms when fired and released. Does not matter what I attach for atomizer. Anyone have similar issue?
Does my unit need a hard reset? Everything is soldered so I would have to disconnect ground and reattach?
Just trying to avoid sending it in.
 

Rossum

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New vaporshark 20 owner here and have a question..
My ohm reader only reads .9ohms on everything..Currently running pt2 with stock 2.2 head and shows .9ohms when fired and released. Does not matter what I attach for atomizer. Anyone have similar issue?
Does my unit need a hard reset? Everything is soldered so I would have to disconnect ground and reattach?
Just trying to avoid sending it in.
Congratulations!

The DNA 20 has a bug, where the ohm reading in the display will "Stick" and not change. Most often, this will happen with the display reading 0.0 ohms, but it seems it can be other values as well. The good news is that this bug doesn't affect your vape; it will still do all its internal calculations correctly. On a mod with a removable battery, it takes 5 seconds to fix this: Just remove the battery for a moment and re-install; that will reset the DNA controller. Of course that's not so easy to do on a Vaporshark DNA, so.... Vape it until the battery is so low that the unit refuses to fire anymore. Then keep pressing the fire button until the screen completely blanks (this may take a few minutes). Once the display won't come on at all anymore when you press the fire button, plug in, re-charge, and all should be well again.
 
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