VVBox and VVpassthru

[Youssefa]

Originally Posted by TomCattI'd check out eBay and Amazon for the usb jack.

Using a USB port directly off of your computer probably won't work too well; the max amps from ports on a computer are usually 0.5.

What step-up regulator did you get? From eBay? I got one of the LM2577 boost modules from eBay and wasn't able to get over 4.9V with a 3.2 carto. Another member here couldn't get over 3.3V with LR. These mods were with batteries; not sure what the results would be as a PT....hmmmm, something else to add to my list!

Yea, I was going to get that one, prolly look somewhere else then.
I didn't want to use a wall wart but I think I should based on what you just said.

thanks

opps. sorry for posting my sig, I forgot to uncheck the button..

Iam really new to this, but have been doing a lot of looking around and reading. it seems that it is better to step down when ever possible especially where batt's are concerned. stepping up or down is good with ACs Atleast this is my observations from web sites, forum posts and speaking to a few Manufacturers of VV mods.

 

[BJ43]

Hi all,

Hope everyone is tightening their wallets for the holidays!!!..

I am new to modding and seing that I am building something very similar to what is showcased in this thread I thought that here is the place to ask...




My new mod is hopefully going to be a 3 power source 2 output VV mod. input is 2(wall adapter, 7.4-11.1v battery. output to either 510/901 atty or USB. When I started looking at switch onlne, there are all sorts of different acronyms...sdpdt, dpdt...etc. I have the fireing switch already. I need atleast one master slide switch on(ext bat/ac) off, on(int batt) and another to select between Att's or USB(on/on)can someone help me make since of this?

EDIT: What is the difference between "none" and "off"? SO confused

You can use one slide or toggle switch (on off on) to do it. The center position is off so it is also your master switch. TomCatt is good at drawing maybe he will draw it for you...

 

[TomCatt]

Hi all,

Hope everyone is tightening their wallets for the holidays!!!..

I am new to modding and seing that I am building something very similar to what is showcased in this thread I thought that here is the place to ask...


My new mod is hopefully going to be a 3 power source 2 output VV mod. input is 2(wall adapter, 7.4-11.1v battery. output to either 510/901 atty or USB. When I started looking at switch onlne, there are all sorts of different acronyms...sdpdt, dpdt...etc. I have the fireing switch already. I need atleast one master slide switch on(ext bat/ac) off, on(int batt) and another to select between Att's or USB(on/on)can someone help me make since of this?

EDIT: What is the difference between "none" and "off"? SO confused

You can use one slide or toggle switch (on off on) to do it. The center position is off so it is also your master switch. TomCatt is good at drawing maybe he will draw it for you...

BJ


Youssefa, you can use a SPDT (single pole, double throw) switch like this one:

OR:

A DPDT (double pole, double throw) switch, like this:

I've used the DPDT switch to select between power sources. The center set of posts get the + and - connections from your internal circuit. One set of end posts are wired for + and - from one power source (it doesn't matter which side of the switch is + or -, just so that all + are on one side and all - on the other) and the other end for the other source. If you are going to have two separate external sources; just wire both external sources to the same end posts ( assuming you won't be using BOTH external sources at the same time).

The SPDT and DPDT switches come with different numbers of positions, look for a 3 position (on/off/on) switch for the power selection and a 2 position (on/on) for the atty/usb selection.


Hope this helps

 

[Cool_Breeze]

BJ


Youssefa, you can use a SPDT (single pole, double throw) switch like this one:

OR:

A DPDT (double pole, double throw) switch, like this:

I've used the DPDT switch to select between power sources. The center set of posts get the + and - connections from your internal circuit. One set of end posts are wired for + and - from one power source (it doesn't matter which side of the switch is + or -, just so that all + are on one side and all - on the other) and the other end for the other source. If you are going to have two separate external sources; just wire both external sources to the same end posts ( assuming you won't be using BOTH external sources at the same time).

The SPDT and DPDT switches come with different numbers of positions, look for a 3 position (on/off/on) switch for the power selection and a 2 position (on/on) for the atty/usb selection.


Hope this helps

Radio Shack had packages of several of the type switches pictured above recently. They were nice priced and there were different types in the bag. I don't know if they are still available.

 

[gormly]

Ok just so I am clear.. I should get a step down, not a step up? I am now confusing myself.
I understand the wiring and things of that nature but not so much power.

I am going to build myself a VV that has multiple power sources, I thought maybe USB (from computer) Batteries (2 3.7v in series for 7.4) and also a wall wart and a special dial switch to switch between them. So I am not sure what to get.

Also, since I am hounding you guys... how do I figure out what DC power flush mount to get? Is there a "standard"? all of my wall warts here I have a spares are all different size plugs

 

[BJ43]

eBay - New & used electronics, cars, apparel, collectibles, sporting goods & more at low prices

This is what TomCatt and I are using and yes if you are going to use 7.4V it has to be a stepdown regulator.

Most sources use a 2.1mm jack.

The source must have at least the the 7.4 volt preferably 12v and at least 2 amps

 

[Cool_Breeze]

The 5 Volts available from a USB port wouldn't be high enough in Voltage to charge 2 - 3.7 volt batteries in series.

A pair of 18350, 3.7 volt, 1200 mAh batteries should provide a full day+ of vaping with a switching regulator. They can be charged overnight with a trusty external charger. Or, keep a 2nd pair of batteries with the charger and alternate them. By doing so, one would never need to be tethered.

 

[gormly]

The 5 Volts available from a USB port wouldn't be high enough in Voltage to charge 2 - 3.7 volt batteries in series.

A pair of 18350, 3.7 volt, 1200 mAh batteries should provide a full day+ of vaping with a switching regulator. They can be charged overnight with a trusty external charger. Or, keep a 2nd pair of batteries with the charger and alternate them. By doing so, one would never need to be tethered.

I wasn't planning on charging the batteries via this device, just as a "to go" option, mostly I'd vape it at my computer where I am 99% of the time. I just want options, it's more so I can tell myself I made something cool (shallow yep), I don't need to vape at 6+ volts all the time, so a pass through via USB would be fine for certain cartos.

I guess I just don't understand the voltage and amps requirements properly. Obviously a wall wart would work, as would two 3.7 batteries in series, but for the USB I understand it would be under powered, just looking for 3.7 on that. The higher would have to come from the batteries or the wall plug. Perhaps I should just skip the USB angle and go for the two way, wall power and batteries.

 

[gormly]

eBay - New & used electronics, cars, apparel, collectibles, sporting goods & more at low prices

This is what TomCatt and I are using and yes if you are going to use 7.4V it has to be a stepdown regulator.

Most sources use a 2.1mm jack.

The source must have at least the the 7.4 volt preferably 12v and at least 2 amps

wow that is really cheap! Thanks for the power info also
So I could vape at 7.4 with a 12v power source and 3.7 - 5 with 2 3.7 batts in series yes?

 

[BJ43]

You set the output voltage with the pot to what ever you want within the limits and it stays the same no mater what the input voltage is as long as it is 2v greater than the output.

 

[BJ43]

Got some goodies from China today, three new LM2596 regulators and two Ego-W to mod into cheap Line atty. The fun begins..

 

[gormly]

You set the output voltage with the pot to what ever you want within the limits and it stays the same no mater what the input voltage is as long as it is 2v greater than the output.

OK, I get it so when I switch to battery I need to make sure it's no more than 5.4V, then on 12V power it could go all the way to 10V

 

[BJ43]

Yep, actually fully charged batteries go over 8v and you can vape at 6v. I think the specs on the regulator say a 1.5v difference.

 

[TomCatt]

I wasn't planning on charging the batteries via this device, just as a "to go" option, mostly I'd vape it at my computer where I am 99% of the time. I just want options, it's more so I can tell myself I made something cool (shallow yep), I don't need to vape at 6+ volts all the time, so a pass through via USB would be fine for certain cartos.

I guess I just don't understand the voltage and amps requirements properly. Obviously a wall wart would work, as would two 3.7 batteries in series, but for the USB I understand it would be under powered, just looking for 3.7 on that. The higher would have to come from the batteries or the wall plug. Perhaps I should just skip the USB angle and go for the two way, wall power and batteries.

The problem with using the USB port on a computer is that the port is designed to output ~0.5A. Even at 3.7V, you need over 1A current for vaping. You run the very real chance of burning out the USB port on a computer using it for direct PT power. A lot of commercial PTs have an inline battery that actually powers the atty/carto; plugging one of these into the computers USB port just charges the inline battery, which is fine.

 

[gormly]

The problem with using the USB port on a computer is that the port is designed to output ~0.5A. Even at 3.7V, you need over 1A current for vaping. You run the very real chance of burning out the USB port on a computer using it for direct PT power. A lot of commercial PTs have an inline battery that actually powers the atty/carto; plugging one of these into the computers USB port just charges the inline battery, which is fine.

This is what confuses me, I have a Go-go pass through that I made by taking out the battery and direct wiring to the circuit board where the battery wires would have been, I figured doing it this way would avoid over voltage on the carto, letting the circuit regulate the load. It worked perfectly, but it *should* have burned the port/board yes?
The Go-go is a 3.7-4.2(fully charged) device.

When I first started reading about this it was after I had done that and I was like UH OH... but it works fine.
Could it just be my computer? I have a high end motherboard...

 

[TomCatt]

Not real sure myself gorm; but using Ohm's Law, even 3.7V with a 3ohm atty will be trying to pull 1.2A. From that and this from Wiki

USB:
Electrical
Signal 5 volt DC
Max. voltage 5 V(±5%)
Max. current 500–900 mA @ 5 V (depending on version)

I would be real hesitant to directly power a PT from a computer USB. It is usually suggested to use a powered USB hub or "wall wart" for no-battery PTs.

I had made a PT using a 2.1mm DC jack and 12V/2A AC adapter previously; so when I saw this thread, I incorporated BJ43's PT idea in the LM2596 mod I was making.

 

[gormly]

Not real sure myself gorm; but using Ohm's Law, even 3.7V with a 3ohm atty will be trying to pull 1.2A. From that and this from Wiki

USB:
Electrical
Signal 5 volt DC
Max. voltage 5 V(±5%)
Max. current 500–900 mA @ 5 V (depending on version)

I would be real hesitant to directly power a PT from a computer USB. It is usually suggested to use a powered USB hub or "wall wart" for no-battery PTs.

I had made a PT using a 2.1mm DC jack and 12V/2A AC adapter previously; so when I saw this thread, I incorporated BJ43's PT idea in the LM2596 mod I was making.

thank you! I don;t use it anymore after reading, so it's just parts now

 

[gormly]

would this be the right power supply to get?

AC 110-240V Converter Adapter DC 12V 2A Power Supply US | eBay

 

[BJ43]

would this be the right power supply to get?

AC 110-240V Converter Adapter DC 12V 2A Power Supply US | eBay

That would be the minimum amps, If I had to buy one I would personally go to over 3 amps. A 2ohm coil at 6v is pulling 3 amps.

 

[BJ43]

I use a 12v 5amp because I enjoy HV vaping.