Why is ECF full of so many people against subohming?

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GeorgeWachsmuth

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SX200 chip was a clue he is using a dna mod. Whether it is relevant to the thread or not, you challenged a point that he made, and he corrected you. Man up when you are wrong.
I mentioned a 20 watt device in the post before the one that was commented on. Should have been a clue..

Edit : Whoops...looks like this was adressed..
 

DeadbeatJeff

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Well...yeah, it does.....Subbing is done unregulated and directly off a battery because of the coil's low resistance...the battery wears out quickly....your vape is not consistent..its a poor way to improve your vaping experience overall. Engineers typically try to think things out and utilze tools and techniques that are more efficient and consistent. This is why I tried the brute force method and reasoned out a safer, tighter approach to a tasty,dense, cloudy vaping experience using higher resistance, more carefully thought out builds and a regulated mod.
Well, my "clouds" are dense, and tasty, and I like them.

How do I solve the problem of dropping voltage on my bat? I just switch it out after a while when I can tell the difference, usually around 3.8-3.9.

but yeah: your approach is much more reasonable and well thought out, cause you're better and smarter and more thoughtful than the silly people who like coils under 1.0 ohms. Or maybe people like different vapes than you.

{MODERATED}

------------

My life was better when I just stayed in the DIY juice boards, hardware boards, etc. For some reason I'd begun to think these fora were populated with thoughtful and helpful people. Clicked on the "general dicsussion" forum last night and already I'm beginning to hate ECF.

Turns out in the other subs this forum is the same as fora ever were. Which I why I don't do fora anymore.

/////////////////
 
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DeadbeatJeff

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Yup. EVERYONE knows a 20 watt mod means its a DNA mod. Geepers.

except people who don't use them, haven't looked into them, and live alone in the {MODERATED} woods

when I wrote that; however, FTR, the DNA was included in "like a Provari" in terms of the cycle... cause I learned that from PhilB

/

regardless: has noting to do with the pros of low res builds in-and-of themselves.

And I could care less who scores points in a forum; have been on enough to know better

---------

I don't need this jr high .... in my life

late
 
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Baditude

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My life was better when I just stayed in the DIY juice boards, hardware boards, etc. For some reason I'd begun to think these fora were populated with thoughtful and helpful people. Clicked on the "general dicsussion" forum last night and already I'm beginning to hate ECF.

Turns out in the other subs this forum is the same as fora ever were. Which I why I don't do fora anymore.
The members on ECF are populated with plenty of thoughtful and helpful people. Only when those who think they are a know-it-all and arrogant & pompous do people then call them out. You brought this upon yourself by the way you presented your views.
 

B1sh0p

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minimalsaint

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There you go again.
So what other 20W chips are on the market currently? I honestly don't know, so educate me? What makes each one different? Do any run at 33.3 Hz? Which one(s)?
Let's compile some useful information into this thread before it gets locked for indecency.
 
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Stosh

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I kinda get your point, but it's a dumb point. The flavor is different; overall juice consumption is moot.

Especially if you DIY the amount of juice you use is kinda irrelevant.

I've been DIYing my juice for a couple years now, and actually understand flavor percentages and ratios, (even without a webpage or app calculator). It would be a rather "dumb point" to think overall juice consumption has no bearing on the amount of flavoring inhaled. Any flavoring is going to have it's own specific flash point, then it's vaporized, turning water or flavors into steam does not change their chemical composition unless the 160 watts is burning it like a cigarette would.
 

Baditude

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K_Tech

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There you go again.
So what other 20W chips are on the market currently? I honestly don't know, so educate me? What makes each one different? Do any run at 33.3 Hz? Which one(s)?
Let's compile some useful information into this thread before it gets locked for indecency.
I may be wrong, but I think the only 33.3 chip that runs at 20 watts is the one in the Lambo 6?

And to stay on topic, I'll say that what I've seen people on the forum against isn't sub-ohming itself, but the posts that start out like "I made a 6-wrap quad coil in my XYZ RDA and my mech is getting really hot" and then subsequent questions discover that the OP has no ohmmeter and Trustfire batteries.

As with any activity that pushes limits, sub-ohming has its risks, which can be managed with an understanding of what can go wrong and knowledge of how to avoid the mistakes others have made.
 

edyle

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I've been DIYing my juice for a couple years now, and actually understand flavor percentages and ratios, (even without a webpage or app calculator). It would be a rather "dumb point" to think overall juice consumption has no bearing on the amount of flavoring inhaled. Any flavoring is going to have it's own specific flash point, then it's vaporized, turning water or flavors into steam does not change their chemical composition unless the 160 watts is burning it like a cigarette would.

Yes; it would be like drinking something a drop at a time compared to drinking it a mouthfull at a time.
Same liquid; same taste in one sense, but the mouthfull will be more satisfying and the drop.
 

edyle

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Perhaps it just the acrolein at high heat that you're tasting...

I'm pretty sure when you get acrolien you'll go ACK!!
I think you are more likely to get it with silica than with cotton; I'm just guessing based on my experience with the two; too hot with silica and you go ACK! Too hot with cotton, and it's like you taste the cotton burning first, and you stop there and go back down.
 

Stosh

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I'm pretty sure when you get acrolien you'll go ACK!!
I think you are more likely to get it with silica than with cotton; I'm just guessing based on my experience with the two; too hot with silica and you go ACK! Too hot with cotton, and it's like you taste the cotton burning first, and you stop there and go back down.

Wow, hope you understand the electronics side better that the chemical side. Acrolien is created from the glycerols by heat, independent of any wicking, particularly something completely inert like silica.
 

Baditude

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There's been a lot of misinformation provided on the forum about battery safety. There was a battery rating chart made by some members that was posted a lot. It was almost completely inaccurate. Battery ratings are given with CDR in mind. CDR is usually defined as firing for at least 30 seconds, which we never do. Pulse ratings are up 2 times the CDR rating.
I'm pretty sure you are referring to my Battery Basics for Mods blog.

It's been posted a lot by members on this forum as a reference. It was given to PBusardo, who double-checked all the information as being accurate and who now uses it on his Taste Your Juice website. Even Rolygate, our Forum Administrator and resident battery authority provides a link to the blog in his Rechargeable Batteries article on battery safety.

A battery's continuous discharge rating (CDR) in amps is the specification standard which has become accepted in our hobby. Live with it.

You have a history of trying to discredit the information that I give here on ECF. My information is to the best of my knowledge accurate and a product of much research. I usually try to provide resource links to this information when and where it is applicable. You on the other hand try to discredit it at every opportunity, without backing it up with links to resource references. Who do you think people are going to most trust with the most reliable information?

:confused:
 
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B1sh0p

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There you go again.
So what other 20W chips are on the market currently? I honestly don't know, so educate me? What makes each one different? Do any run at 33.3 Hz? Which one(s)?
Let's compile some useful information into this thread before it gets locked for indecency.

The SX200 chip is not a DNA.
 

B1sh0p

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Baditude

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Ok, I'll play as long as the mods allow it.

What are the blatant inaccuracies you state? Back it up with links that everyone can check. I've done the research, its been double checked by multiple people and found to be accurate. I can back up my facts with references. Can you?

I'll take partial blame (ignorance) for my battery exploding. I was only 2 months into vaping and using my first mechanical mod for about a week, and knew about as much about mechanical mods like everyone else just 2 months into vaping. I was using the battery (protected Trustfire ICR) that was recommended by the manufacturer of the mod at the time that I purchased it. At that time everyone was promoting protected ICR batteries, like Trustfires. People were saying not to use IMR batteries because they weren't "protected". People back then weren't educated to know that IMR batteries were inherently safer chemistry and didn't need protection. How times have changed in two years.

This mod did NOT have a lock option. It didn't even have vent holes, although it was designed to vent out the fire switch (which it did). I thought I was safe using a "protected" battery. I thought that the hot spring was supposed to collapse when the battery got to a certain temperature - it did not. And I'll argue that it did indeed "explode". Both end caps were blown out from the body casing. It vented flames as the pants were singed and burnt. This was more dramatic than just a battery "venting" some gas.

Trustfire2.jpg

Had this been a regulated mod the above event would not have happened. A regulated mod's protection circuitry would have had a timed auto cutoff of the fire button, short circuit protection, and over-discharge protection. It would have shut itself down before the battery got hot and over-discharged.

If you have such a high disregard for THIS site, why do you continue to come here and post? IMO, you are a tr*ll and serve this community no good will.
 
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B1sh0p

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yeah, that is what happened, cause looking at the spring now that it's not 4:00am, it doesnt look broken.

What was that little spring for? Where does it go? Just with the other one?

Just got the thing a few days ago and never fully broke-down the mechanism.

but the point is proven, I think, that accidents can happen that would be very dangerous with certain builds. Had replaced the batter many times and then all of a sudden the pin came out and caused that.

The little brass spring is for conductivity. It helps bring the current through the mod. The big spring is for the throw.

Accidents do happen, the build has nothing to do with it. It's like blaming cigarettes because smokers fall asleep with a lit one. It's not the cigarette's fault, it's the user.
 

B1sh0p

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B1sh0p

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