WOFOTO Profile RDA

[Anise]

I'm a little late to the game but I finally got a Profile. Building was a snap and I'm using it with my Aleander Bhive and enjoying it so far. (4 hour use)
One question tho- is the base supposed to sit flush? I took it to the B&M and they said it was normal for a small edge to protrude from the bottom. All the rest of my rdas sit flush. Were they just bsing me cause they couldn't get it flush either? Or is there some trick to get it to sit even on the bottom with only the 510 pin sticking out? Thanks for any info.

 

[b.m.]

I'm a little late to the game but I finally got a Profile. Building was a snap and I'm using it with my Aleander Bhive and enjoying it so far. (4 hour use)
One question tho- is the base supposed to sit flush? I took it to the B&M and they said it was normal for a small edge to protrude from the bottom. All the rest of my rdas sit flush. Were they just bsing me cause they couldn't get it flush either? Or is there some trick to get it to sit even on the bottom with only the 510 pin sticking out? Thanks for any info.

Are you talking about the cap sitting flush on the base?If so,there are little nubs inside the cap that sit in notches in the base to keep it from spinning.If those aren't lined up,there will be a bit of an edge showing on the base and the cap will move if you twist it.

 

[Anise]

That's exactly what I mean. For some reason I can't line them up and when the guy at the store couldn't line them up he gave me that story about the bottom not sitting flush. I'll give it another try later today. Thanks!

 

[Punk In Drublic]

I have noticed with the Profile’s that I own that the tolerances for this keyed fit are very tight. And without looking at what you are doing, achieving the proper fit can be difficult.

If you remove the AFC, you should be able to see the cut out within the deck which is in line with the screws. Position the cap so that its tabs are just to the left of the cut outs in the deck, gently pushing down, turn the cap to the right – it should snap into place. Do not force for you could damage the cap or deck which could lead to further ill fitting issues.

 

[Anise]

Thank you. I'll let you know how it goes.

 

[Anise]

Worked perfectly! Thank you for your help. It seemed so simple but without knowing about placing the tabs to the left of the cutout and turning it was impossible to sit correctly. Thanks again! I'm happily squonking away!

 

[Punk In Drublic]

Worked perfectly! Thank you for your help. It seemed so simple but without knowing about placing the tabs to the left of the cutout and turning it was impossible to sit correctly. Thanks again! I'm happily squonking away!

Awesome!

Are you enjoying the Profile? It can be a bit of a task to squonk vs a typical coil rda, but once you get the hang of it, it becomes second nature.

 

[Anise]

So far I haven't had any problems squonking with it. I'm very happy! I did dry out my cotton once but caught it before a dry hit and now I have an idea how often to squeeze the bottle. I'm glad I like it because I have another one ready to go. I just have to choose which Squonk to use with it.
Thanks again for the help. The second one was so easy to put together!!

 

[Anise]

So far I'm really enjoying my Profiles and have been chain squonking but I noticed the mesh on one was getting very dark. Can I dry burn the mesh coils to clean them or are they shot when they get gunked up?

 

[Punk In Drublic]

So far I'm really enjoying my Profiles and have been chain squonking but I noticed the mesh on one was getting very dark. Can I dry burn the mesh coils to clean them or are they shot when they get gunked up?

Yes. Use a low wattage pulses, say 10 to 15 watts. I also rinse under warm water after dry burns just to wash away any debris. Keep an eye on hot spots after dry burring – this will be a part of the mesh that glows brighter/longer than the rest. Few pulses at low wattage and they disappear.

The mesh is not as durable as a coil, but if you do not dry burn them too hot, they should last a few months. If you use higher wattage to glow, you can end up over heating the mesh and they will break.

Also keep your eye out for any deformation of the mesh when removing your used wicks. If there is a kink in the mesh, this will create a hot spot. Best to change if that is the case. If it is slightly deformed, you can reform it using the forming tool.

 

[Anise]

Ok got it. Thank you so much! If I hadn't asked I would have burnt the coil with high wattage. I appreciate it.

 

[Rex Everything]

I'm a little late to the game but I finally got a Profile. Building was a snap and I'm using it with my Aleander Bhive and enjoying it so far. (4 hour use)
One question tho- is the base supposed to sit flush? I took it to the B&M and they said it was normal for a small edge to protrude from the bottom. All the rest of my rdas sit flush. Were they just bsing me cause they couldn't get it flush either? Or is there some trick to get it to sit even on the bottom with only the 510 pin sticking out? Thanks for any info.

the orings on my profile were slightly frayed/rough and super looswe right out of the box. The o rings would bunch up and roll out of groove and cause top cap to hang up....switched to spares... problem solved

 

[Spydro]

Changed my wicking in my Wotofo Profile Unity RTA's (posted how I installed it in it's thread). Am liking it so plan to also try it in my Profile RDA's.

 

[gpjoe]

Man, I love the Profile. Just got two SS versions from the classified forum, with four boxes of Wotofo cotton, three 10-packs of nexMesh, and one 10-pack of Wotofo mesh - it felt like Christmas morning when I opened the box.

Got one set up on a Pulse 80 with Wotofo mesh and Wotofo cotton, vaping at 45-watts and cannot believe how nice it vapes. Super smooth, fires instantly with no snap, crackle, spit, or pop, doesn't overheat, and no leaks from over-squonking. I't really one of the best squonking attys I have used for large vapor and flavor.

Really very impressed - so much that I may retire a couple of my Recurves.

I had been wanting to try a mesh RDA and bought these pre-loved so I couldn't choose the color. The SS is ok, just wish one was blue. Might have to break down and buy one more.

 

[gpjoe]

I'm a little late to the game but I finally got a Profile. Building was a snap and I'm using it with my Aleander Bhive and enjoying it so far. (4 hour use)
One question tho- is the base supposed to sit flush? I took it to the B&M and they said it was normal for a small edge to protrude from the bottom. All the rest of my rdas sit flush. Were they just bsing me cause they couldn't get it flush either? Or is there some trick to get it to sit even on the bottom with only the 510 pin sticking out? Thanks for any info.

I pushed and twisted my cap into place as hard as I could and it isn't quite flush. I'm sure it would drive an OCD'er nuts, but I'm just leaving it. It is very slight (almost unnoticeable) and works fine.

 

[440BB]

I just ordered my first Profile to begin my bottom feeding journey. I've had such good performance with the Flow Pro mesh drop in coils that this looks like a good place to start. Thanks to all for the insights in this thread!

 

[dangkhoa02106]

https://i.imgur.com/tZJ09eF.jpg

Perfect couple! So far so good. I will buy Kylin M rta when it arrives to my dealer's store.

 

[Zaryk]

I have thought about getting a profile, but always change my mind since I loose a lot of control over the ohms of the build, at least from what I can tell. Since I only run mech squonks, I feel it's important to have full control over the ohms.

So my question here is, how easy is it to build to a specific ohm range? Like if I wanted .24 for one mod, and .2 for another. That is just an example, I stay in the .2-.3 range depending which mod im using and batteries I use for it that particular mod.

 

[Spydro]

I have thought about getting a profile, but always change my mind since I loose a lot of control over the ohms of the build, at least from what I can tell. Since I only run mech squonks, I feel it's important to have full control over the ohms.

So my question here is, how easy is it to build to a specific ohm range? Like if I wanted .24 for one mod, and .2 for another. That is just an example, I stay in the .2-.3 range depending which mod im using and batteries I use for it that particular mod.

Have not experimented much with my other mesh in the Profiles (SS316L 150 & SS400). It would come down to what mesh is used and the size it is cut at (that will fit in the Profile) to see what they Ω out at in them. Someone may have done the trial and error to find out, I haven't. The mod and the batts used also need to safely handle whatever the build throws at them. The Profiles can also run coils if the mesh doesn't work out for you.

I have 9 mesh Profile RDA's and 5 mesh Profile Unity RTA, and run 6 Profile RDA's on mech squonk mods. In 5 with the Wotofo 0.18Ω KA1 strips and 1 with an OFRF nexMESH 0.18Ω KA1 strip. The wattage they hit at works just fine for me on the mechs and the DIY's I run in them albeit at a much higher wattage than in the Profiles I run on regulated squonk mods.

 

[Zaryk]

Have not experimented much with my other mesh in the Profiles (SS316L 150 & SS400). It would come down to what mesh is used and the size it is cut at (that will fit in the Profile) to see what they Ω out at in them. Someone may have done the trial and error to find out, I haven't. The mod and the batts used also need to safely handle whatever the build throws at them. The Profiles can also run coils if the mesh doesn't work out for you.

I have 9 mesh Profile RDA's and 5 mesh Profile Unity RTA, and run 6 Profile RDA's on mech squonk mods. In 5 with the Wotofo 0.18Ω KA1 strips and 1 with an OFRF nexMESH 0.18Ω KA1 strip. The wattage they hit at works just fine for me on the mechs and the DIY's I run in them albeit at a much higher wattage than in the Profiles I run on regulated squonk mods.

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I dislike SS. It makes my juices taste metallic (to me at least). K1 is ok, but nichrome is all I ever use anymore.

If I were to use the profile, I would want mesh. With a smaller single coil like I use (2.5 id triple 28g fused claptons with 40g wrap) it just has too much open space for my liking and I highly doubt it would out perform something designed specifically with single coils in mind.

Well, it seems that I might have been right in not getting one. It may not be my style, with no nichrome mesh options that I could find, and no good way to predetermine ohms without a lot of trial and error and most likely wasting a lot of mesh in the process.

Thanks for the response. I kind of brought a few things to my attention that makes a difference to me.