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Id think an audio track of grunting noises and swearing should suffice .Digi-Flavor wanted me to send them a video of my too tight Drop o-rings....
everyone can contribute 1.5 second voice data
Thats intresting to hear. Kinda renewed my hope in 3fvape a little, really like that site so thanks for the feedback.
I guess now that ive fixed the button to pieces i got myself to blame, but maybe il do the video thing next time since i got the ts on the slowboat heading my way.
I guess now that ive fixed the button to pieces i got myself to blame, but maybe il do the video thing next time since i got the ts on the slowboat heading my way.
Just spotted an updated version of both the DS and TS by Defiant Design (no longer under the Driptech name) on custom vapes uk website. I can not as yet post links so search for "SQUONK mod BY DEFIANT DESIGNS". Apparently both positive and negative contact designs have been improved.
**The positive contact has been updated and now self-centers the companion components
***The negative contacts have been updated to a stronger design while maintaining their polarity protection
Signed up for the waiting list, eta next week.
**The positive contact has been updated and now self-centers the companion components
***The negative contacts have been updated to a stronger design while maintaining their polarity protection
Signed up for the waiting list, eta next week.
I haven't been following the current firing issues and potential fixes but I thought I should post an update on mine. I started having misfires again on my DS, so I tore it down and found some pitting on the plate that makes contact with the screw in the button. The problem appears to be arcing between that screw and the plate. I'll bet that was the cause of the melting issues people were having as well.
Previous cleaning with a solvent didn't help this at all so I took the coarse side of a nail file and filed down the uneven corrosion. In the process, I also removed some of the "plating" on the plate. Upon reassembly, my DS is hitting harder than it was when it was new. If you're still having firing issues, try sanding down that plate and removing some of the finish. Now it doesn't matter how I hold the mod or what finger I use on the button. It fires every time.
Previous cleaning with a solvent didn't help this at all so I took the coarse side of a nail file and filed down the uneven corrosion. In the process, I also removed some of the "plating" on the plate. Upon reassembly, my DS is hitting harder than it was when it was new. If you're still having firing issues, try sanding down that plate and removing some of the finish. Now it doesn't matter how I hold the mod or what finger I use on the button. It fires every time.
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Seem like second clone is look indentical with ori (highly suspect it from same manufactures leftover).
Any one like to convert parallel to series Or any direction on how to do it?
I plan to do it ...
Any one like to convert parallel to series Or any direction on how to do it?
I plan to do it ...
So a little update.
I got my TS now and guess what happened on day 2.
Yup same as the ds, threads in the button melted and it came loose
Im running at 0.12 Ohms as always vtc5a so this shouldnt be a issue.
Its truly sad cause the mod is awensome in every way except that it doesent work.
I got my TS now and guess what happened on day 2.
Yup same as the ds, threads in the button melted and it came loose
Im running at 0.12 Ohms as always vtc5a so this shouldnt be a issue.
Its truly sad cause the mod is awensome in every way except that it doesent work.
See my post above about arcing. Try filing down the plate and screw head to make a clean contact. That should prevent melting the button. Also as an update, I haven't had a misfire since that fix and I use my DS every day.
Got hold of a original button for the new DS sanded all the contacts and have been using it for a week now with no issues.
The TS i got some 2 componen glue that was heat resistant up 150c i sanded all the positive contacts and it worked untill i realised it was getting extremely hot at the base where the negative is conected by the battery lid.
i took a closer look and realised the connection surface was covered in paint, took my trusty dremel to it and carefully removed the paint and it worked no more heat good connection.
this however made the positive the weak point in the circuit again and the button melted off the pin again this morning. Im now gonna drill out the button some and make a heat insulating layer between the button and the pin since i dont think the glue is the problem but the plastic around it.
The TS i got some 2 componen glue that was heat resistant up 150c i sanded all the positive contacts and it worked untill i realised it was getting extremely hot at the base where the negative is conected by the battery lid.
i took a closer look and realised the connection surface was covered in paint, took my trusty dremel to it and carefully removed the paint and it worked no more heat good connection.
this however made the positive the weak point in the circuit again and the button melted off the pin again this morning. Im now gonna drill out the button some and make a heat insulating layer between the button and the pin since i dont think the glue is the problem but the plastic around it.
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