GP Series by VapourArt - Advance Notifications, Tips & Tricks & Updates Thread

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GP SPHEROID TIPS & TRICKS

By Maz

The Spheroid is the only atty type I have owned that I have never sold, that has to say summat surely? What I have here is a V1 cap and tube with a V2 base and now a V3 upgrade, I still have the V1 base, I think it's #132 but I'm not 100% and can't be arsed digging it out to check, the number it now carries is 466. This atty just kept getting better and better with every upgrade, now at V3 it's the best it's ever been and it's my steep atty.

I got kayfunitis the same as most, they've gone now and I'm not looking at any other silica atties, this one suits me just fine, simple and works, as many have said it's a good pairing with the MicroStick for a small 'chuck in your pocket and stealthy when out' setup.

How I set mine up is a tip that came from someone else, it wasn't perfect 'as-is' but neither was the Spheroid filled with just sera, after a while the juice got locked in. Some bright spark came up with this (it's on here and on Perseas 'tips' thread on ECF, is it ECF? I think so, anyway..) I just 'improved' it for my own use..

He used mesh as a filler, wound around the central stem, I liked it initially but it flooded if stood up for too long, so I took it back apart and now have this as a setup, it's about the top 2/3rds #400 mesh and the lower 1/3rd sera, wicks beautifully, never floods or leaks and this mesh has been in place from the first time I put it there, maybe a year ago? All I did was to take it out once to shorten it so I could fit sera in there. Also the same sera as been in place for 3-4 months, maybe even longer, I fluff it back up a bit with the needle tip on my bottle occasionally when it's dry before refilling, other than that my filler is pretty much permanent. bear in mind this is an atty used exclusively for tobacco steeps, is in daily use (about 2-3ml per day) and the filler materials NEVER get cleaned..

This is the first time I have taken this sera out, and I'll be putting it straight back in 

This is juice in here, not gunk, I was vaping it until a couple of minutes before the pics..

The sera plug, a little scorched and soaked in juice but still fine

The mesh, again this is soaked in juice, it's not dry and it's not 'gunk' (unlike on the central tube, that IS gunk and needs a quick cleaning 

I think it's worth the initial hassle for a basically maintenance free atty apart from rebuilding and the next time I rebuild it? It's getting a cotton microcoil for even less maintenance 

 

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January 24, Vapourday

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February 17, Vapourday

 

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GP HERON TIPS& TRICKS

By Qorax

GP-Heron : Setup Pictorial √

HERON : Microcoil & Cotton build
~A simple setup that does the trick, effortlessly!



Well, did many setups over the testing period and noticed that two builds really shines thru in the Heron ~ (1)Our regular Silica with a Kanthal Coil and (2)A Microcoil with Cotton Yarn. I prefer the Microcoils for many reasons (discussed earlier) and here's how I did it on the Heron.

Preparation

WASHING, CLEANING AND WORK LAYOUT:


HERON PARTS:

Note: It was important to name them since we'd be referring to some of the parts in the following tutorial.

Coiling

MICROCOIL PREPARED & MOUNTED:

Note: 28AWG Kanthal, 8 wraps over a regular toothpick.

MICROCOIL RESISTANCE CHECK:

Note: A 1Ω coil.

MICROCOIL AIRWAY SPACING & TEST FIRED:

Note: The coil is terminalled with it's legs in the bottom plane (graphic below) and in line with the screws. Thus maintaining a roughly 2mm air-way at the bottom.

COIL AIR-WAY SPACING CLOSEUP:

Note: There is roughly a 2mm gap between the deck's air channel and the bottom of the coil.

Wicking

INSERTING YARN INTO THE COIL AND SIZE OF THE WICK LOOP:

Note: I prefer S'n'C Cotton Yarn on the Heron. I tried the regular Cotton Ball/s too, but found them trickling down excessive juice, akin to flooding. Probably could have played with the thickness of the wick to have a consistent feed, but the yarn does the trick without any need for tinkering. Also note the roughly 15mm length of the feeding loop.

Caution: Lily's S'n'C Cotton Yarn needs pre-boiling. Pls see >HERE< for my pictorial on it's preparation.

TRIMMING WICK TAILS AND FINAL LOOK OF THE WICK:

Note: The tails of the wick has been cut to roughly 5mm. This is the length which would 'sit' inside the 'well' of the deck.

MICROCOIL & WICK CLOSEUP:

Note: The small piece of folded wire is still kept attached to the loop. This will help in inserting the loop thru the wick hole of the Chamber 'Lid'.

WICK JUICED UP:


BUILD TEST FIRED:


Assembling

ASSEMBLING THE CHAMBER CAP (WITH CHAMBER "LID" REMOVED):

Note: The Chamber Cap could be split into two parts ~ removing it's top-cap (a disc) with two holes. Don't try screwing-in the Chamber Cap with the wick loop, else you'll be damaging your coil. Yep, been there - done that

CHAMBER "LID" PLACEMENT WITH PROTRUDING LOOP (AND IT'S SIZE):


PROTRUDING LOOP'S CLOSEUP AND MEASUREMENT:

Note: The protruding wick loop is roughly 5mm long. That is sufficient to 'touch' our fluff for continuous feeding.

Tanking

CUTTING & SIZING THE FLUFF, AND WRAPPING IT ON THE CHIMNEY TUBE:

Note: I have cut a piece of the GP-Fluff to roughly 60mm x 20mm size. I've played with various lengths and found this size to be sufficient for proper juice containment and feed. However remember, this length is for the GP-Fluff ~ other filler materials (viz. Juwel, Sera, Acurel etc.) will require different lengths due to their varied density.

TANK TUBE FITTED WITH BELL SECTION CONTAINING THE FLUFF AND FILLING JUICE:

Note: Roughly holds about 3.4ml of juice.

INSIDE THE JUICED TANK AND HERON FULLY ASSEMBLED:

Note: Pls check the saturation level of the fluff in the picture. A good aspect of the Heron is that it's tank section is sealed ~ it could thus take a few ml more and might not create a/ny issue if we vape it off immediately. However, if the fluff remains excessively saturated overnight - it might leak into the chamber and flood it. Which will either gurgle or further seep outwards thru the base's air-channel.

HERON & LUX: SIZE COMPARISON WITH OTHER 18350 MODS:


Performance
The Heron vapes really well. Every build that I put into it - worked perfectly. However, this setup ~ the Microcoil & Cotton Yarn works effortlessly. The VTF is rock solid ~ very akin to it's senior but sleeker sibling, the Spheroid, when adorned with the same build. In a scale of 1-10 ~ this build could be rated as: Vapor = 9, Throat Hit = 8, Flavor = 8.5. It'd tho depend on the building variables between different persons, but honestly it wouldn't falter much and yet offer a very satisfying vape experience. I am seriously stupefied by the quality of vape the Heron doles out, especially with a Microcoil & Cotton. And it is easy, as well as simple to build. A novice might be awestruck initially due to the various parts involved (the Spheroid was otherwise), however a medium to senior vaper will love it.

BOTTOMLINE:
This is a fantastic device. It is everything what our loveable Spheroid is and takes it to another level viz. it's wider size, thus more juice capacity and ease of building (aka deck real estate). Team-GP has designed it well and it conforms to their philosophy of "Less is More" with a superior build quality and outstanding performance.

Thank you Vapour Art for making the Heron happen!
_____________________________________________________________________
What is the Heron? Pls check Vapour Art's thread on it for further info : http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...eries-vapourart-official-thread-gp-heron.html

 

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GP HERON TIPS & TRICKS

By Qorax

HERON: Cotton Ball Wick

~Same coil (1Ω micro), just dry-burned and replaced the S'n'C with Cotton Ball

COTTON WICK INSERTED & JUICED:


WICK POPPED THRU THE CHAMBER LID:


FIRING THE BUILD:




THOUGHTS:
Used a little more cotton than I normally do. Kept the wick-tail longer (popping out of the 'lid'). Half a day now, vaping perfectly! Cotton ball always chunks more vapor than S'n'C ~ so it is here. TH remains the same, but Flavor seems to be more pronounced. Not immediately, unlike the S'n'C. Took a while (around 7-10 minutes of vaping) then started to taste fantastic. The juice is the same ~ Stinky Canuck's Pink Poison, which is a 70/30 PG/VG sweetish blend.

 

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GP HERON TIPS & TRICKS

By Idaholandho

GP HERON : LOOP BUILD - Choose your wick​

Hello GP Family, I thought I would take a bit of time to give Heron Lovers an alternate build if looking for a quick and easy way to be different and enjoy a fantastic vape experience! This particular build is a favorite on mine on the Spheroid and I love the wick on many atomizers as it wicks perfectly delivering plenty of juice to the coil every time!

My pictures aren't sexy, but, my hands are ......man hands from working for a living and I don't own Photoshop, so please bear with me as the result is worth it. I will include a few photos that may get some a bit more familiar with whats inside.

I happen to love the following build and for some they saw me do much the same on the Spheroid, it's timeless older brother. I thought that this build was a good place to start for many GP lovers and had in mind those that have not owned the Spheroid. I also believe the experienced will also love this straight forward setup.

First of all, Thank You Perseas and the GP Family for the opportunity and the stunning Atomizer, The Heron.

To my door this is what was included in the package and suspect it will be delivered the same to all. GP was very generous with the inclusions! Through builds so far I have found that many wick choices work fantastic in many builds.

For this build I found 2mm Ekowool, 1mm Ekowool and SnP cotton work fantastic and wick fantastic.
The pictures will show 1mm eco being used, .30ga kanthal and VapourArts V2 fluff(the only fluff to buy!)

Here you will find a 4 inch wick medium, a straightened paperclip and a piece of torched .30 kanthal. I torch the kanthal on all coils as it removes the spring in the wire to hold a better shape. The paper clip is not necessary but, will allow you to wrap the coil very tightly, a good support when attaching the coil/wick to the Heron base and a space to adjust the loop size when complete. It will also keep the coil from choking the wick for optimum juice flow.

First, loop your wick twice around your finger - some prefer to make a figure eight and fold the loops together. Next, position the completed loop on the paperclip and looping your coil. I start the wire from the front with 1/2 - 1 inch of a tail down and then start my coil going through the loops. Positioning the completed loop on the paperclip and looping your coil. I start the wire from the front with 1/2 - 1 inch of a tail down and then start my coil going through the loops.

When complete your coil should look like with tails out! I take the time to align the coils, taking a bit of pride in my work

This is where the paper clip comes in handy, attaching to the Heron base. Lay the coil in the centre of the posts to align the wire so that when it is tightened down, the wire follows clockwise with the screw.

Turn the loops over on the other side and do the same. When the coil is attached recheck both posts and make sure no part of the coil is touching the posts, they can be very close but no touchy!

I now take the time to cut my V2 fluff. I have found that 114-127mm x 17-18mm is my optimum size. It also depends on the fluff density and how tightly you wrap the post. With the above I am able to get 3.5-4.0ml of 50/50 juice in. The fluff can be trimmed very easy by cutting the top of the wrap off while on the post to level it. I like to fill it with the syringe and tamp the fluff down with a screw driver. Filling the tank is easy enough moving the needle in a circle starting deep and slowly pulling out while filling. I soak my fluff.

Everyone always wonders how long should their wick be or how big should the loops be? This is a simple measure, I take the fluff tank and place it where it would be seated on the base. I then eyeball the wicks/loops to see the approximate height. Simple, works .

​

After the loops are sized I immediatly check the ohms and for hot spots/legs. I have found the closer the coils the less chance of hot legs to post.

This particular build gave me what I wanted 1.3-1.4 and once a bit of coil break it may settle around 1.5

Now you have a couple choices with the tails, leave them and run them inside the base or cut them short. I would recommend that you at least "dip" them in the well. This will at least and should keep any runaway juice from the airway.
Once your all done, soak the wick in in some juice and have a few test fires and watch the plumes rise!

Ready to Vape!

I have done several other builds and have only failed one as the wick could not keep up with the coil heat. This is a consistent standing setup that will be true to the high standards of the Heron.
I have to say, I absolutely Love the Heron. I am pleased with the simplicity of the device. The flavor is beautiful along with the vapor production.
Rating the flavor it is as good as any atomizer I have used. The vapor production is incredible. It also is subjective to the juice make up. I will tell you I am quite pleased with the vapor and throat hit of this magnificent atomizer.
I have built this particular build in many variations of wick medium and wire gauge. I have loved them all.
This is an atomizer that I will have to have two of.
Perseas, George and the GP Team have done it again with amazing work. Thank you.

The only advice I can give the GP Team is, Don't turn the cnc machines off!

 

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GP HERON TIPS & TRICKS

By Chadsmo

Experimental build without filler material
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Disclaimer
The GP Heron (Spheroid on steroids) is designed as an evolved version of the overtly successful GP Spheroid - and it's intended to 'hold' juice with a filler material, like the GP Fluff, so that this duo are the only 100% leak-resistant RBA under all weather conditions, including the vagaries of flight and altitude changes. It is not designed to be used without filler material
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I've now vaped three full tanks without any filler material holding the juice. No dry hits, no gurgling. I was sceptical at first, but it works and it works great. Much like when using filler material, when it goes dry, it's empty. There wasn't any indication it was getting low.

There's only one tricky part , and that's the wick. It needs to be thin enough in the coil to vape well, but thick enough to completely seal the hole in the topper off. It's slightly annoying to wick properly, but IMO it's worth it. I have no issues using the fluff in the tank and I never have. But I also like to experiment and try new builds and new things. Sometimes they work, and sometimes they don't. Some builds have pros and some have cons, so you keep trying new things and push onward. Ive done the regular style builds in the Heron already, with the topper and without the topper, with cottons balls or cotton yarn ( I even tried silica ...) and so far this way of setting it up is my favourite. Also, getting 4mls of juice in the tank is nice because the space normally occupied by the fluff is freed up for juice.

I'm just using a simple 1.4ohm 30g micro wrapped on a 1/16 drill bit. (sorry but even though I'm in canada i don't know what 30g wire is in metric off the top of my head)

I'll start with pictures of all the Heron parts broken down. Sorry if they're a little blurry, I dropped my iPhone 5s in water a little while ago and sometimes the camera isn't the clearest up close now.

The Gpin is slightly different in the Heron when compared against the PAPS X1.5, this is because much like the Spheriod the top part of the pin needs to stretch over and make contact with the positive screw post.



Once it's assembled it screws in to the bottom of the base.




Next you need to add the AFC ring. There is a slot in the ring and three small holes in the side of the Heron. Unfortunately I can't measure them but if I had to guess I would say they are somewhere around 1 mm.




At this point you would attach your coil, and generally attach your wick before putting on the drip well ring (at least that's what I'm calling it). Because of how I'm wicking this, I need to have it on before hand.





This is the annoying part with this build, but with a steady hand and some fine tipped tweezers it's not too bad.

Something i should stress here. There really isn't need to run the Heron without fluff, and I don't think the need for it is a flaw in the atty at all or anything like that. I'm simply showing that it can be done.

Also, as I said above, getting the wick just right is a little annoying. It needs to be thin enough at one end to wick properly to the coil, but thick enough to plug up the hole but not too thick because you'll choke the juice flow.




Wet it with some juice and let it soak down to the coil.



The top cap and air tube. Notice it's held on at both ends with o-rings, and they fit perfectly, not too tight and not too lose. Can you imagine the OCD if we couldn't line up engravings???



The tank.



Fill your tank up.



The bell on the air tube seals with the small red o-ring you so you want to make sure there is nothing obstructing it, I just push the wick over to the side.



Vape.



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Disclaimer
The GP Heron (Spheroid on steroids) is designed as an evolved version of the overtly successful GP Spheroid - and it's intended to 'hold' juice with a filler material, like the GP Fluff, so that this duo are the only 100% leak-resistant RBA under all weather conditions, including the vagaries of flight and altitude changes. It is not designed to be used without filler material
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March 6, Vapourday

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GP SPHEROID TIPS & TRICKS

 

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GP SPHEROID TIPS & TRICKS

By Qorax

Spheroid: Time to Rebuild√

A Pictorial on Twin SBS Microcoil with S'n'C Yarn​

Coils Prepared and pre-Joined


Coils Mounted on deck


Wires Trimmed and Resistance Checked


Coils Test Fired


Preparation S'n'C Yarn


NOTE: One strand from the yarn is removed for easy wicking. Else, it'd smother the wick and there's be dry-hits. Also, S'nC yarn needs pre-boiling for 20 minutes or more, to remove some of its cottony taste. Details of the procedure is >HERE<

Yarn Inserted and Size of the Wick Loop


Wick Juiced up and Tank filled


Assembling the Tank


Build Test Fired






How do I look?


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CAUTION: This being a sub-Ohm build it is NOT Recommended to be used with the Piccolo or any 16mm mod. 14xxx series batteries cannot take the load of continuos excessive discharge. Pls note that I'm firing it with a Paps-X in 18650 mode, which has a 30A Sony battery inside.
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GP HERON TIPS & TRICKS

By Idaholandho

DUAL MICROCOIL BUILD

Using .30ga 7/8 wrap on 1/16 micro jig with SnC cotton. I originally built the coils vertically. I decided to slant the coils ever so slight to "aim" the wicks towards the wick hole in the cap. The wicks fit perfectly through the top cap without choking them or too much "room". Perfect heat, great GVC flavor and good times.
It absolutely wicks and is my best build. The juice transfer from the fluff to the wick is incredible from the Heron. I left 1 cm on each laying on the deck to soak every drop!

Thank you again Perseas.

 

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GP PnB (Polish & Brush) ADAPTOR TIPS & TRICKS

By Idaholandho

I thought I would do a quick and easy pictorial on polishing a GP top cap with the PnB tool.

I believe everyone with any skill level should buy a PnB as they make polishing very easy.

Here is the top cap that I chose. It has swirls from atomizers and a couple of marks that I have no idea where they came from.

Preparing the top cap, I remove the telescoping pins and the insulator from the underside of cap.

Next, screw the male 1/2 of the PnB in the underside of cap

Pick your drill of choice. I prefer a heavier drill than my Dremel as to me it is easier to sabilize the heft of the drill. Many will find a Dremel much easier due to the smaller size.

I use wet dry Gator sandpaper for the job and soak the small pieces of in water for 5-10 minutes prior to use and continue to dip in water when polishing. Here are the grits I use consistantly(320 - 2000 grit)

NOTE - I prefer to start with the lowest grit and move up in sequence. I do not move from 320 straight to 2000 as I found it sometimes gives the ss an inconsistent finish.

Folding the sandpaper in 1/2, I hold it firm on the cap and only use one finger for slight pressure. I use the drill ad medium rpm's and very slowly move the sandpaper back and forth on one side of the center hole. Remember to keep the sandpaper wet.
If you want to keep your fingers clean wear some latex gloves!

Going through each grit shown above and finishing with the 2000k grit the entire process took approximately 3-4 minutes

Here are the results:

Make sure and pick up your PnB from VapourArt.

 

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GP HERON TIPS & TRICKS

By Idaholandho

GP Fam, I would like to follow up on a couple of things with my build and the Heron.

First, I love the Heron. With the amount of fluff I am using I have no issues with filling it with 4-4.5ml of 50/50 juice. It seems to never run out!
On my last build I used the loops as seen. I decided to cut the loops a bit off center and leave one side of the 2 strands of ekowool a bit longer. I placed the shorter side into the juice well and threaded the longer through the hole on the top cap as shown.

NOTE - wrapping 2 seperate strands of medium together and placing two through the cap and two in the well mimics this method.

Perseas mentioned that the wick dimension through the cap hole makes a wicking difference, and he is correct! So far 2 SnC strands, 2-3mm silica and 2mm strands of ekowool wicks FANTASTIC!.

One last thing and I will include in blog that has had little attention is the AIR FLOW CONTROL!
What a great addition.the AFC ring is simple, moves freely but tight enough that it will not move unless moved. The polished ring finishes the base of the Heron off with tasteful beauty. It is amazing and will be loved by the masses of vapors that begged for it on the Spheroid. Although I am in the camp that likes a bit of a tighter draw as the Spheroid offers, I happily set the AFC on the Heron with two of the holes open leaving one closed.

The AFC needs to be talked about more!
I am still in love with the Heron and will be picking another up because as Perseas knows D. And she gets her way with GP and will soon be negotiating for mine .

 

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GP HERON TIPS & TRICKS

Unpacking GP Heron (Italian)

 

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GP HERON UPDATE

Mine arrived yesterday and I've been experimenting with it for a while now and sufficiently vaping way too much as a result ;O)

I'm extremely happy with it overall - just need to suss out exactly how much filler material is required etc... and I haven't tried a cotton micro coil build just yet.

HOWEVER - there is one thing that is Really irritating me about it so far.. and that is that it gurgles and I absolutely hate gurgling atomisers - they really get on my nerves.. but not just hat - after a few vapes on it the condensate builds up to such a point that when you take subsequent vapes from it the mere act of sucking up the vapour causes juice to be spat into your mouth and there's a horrible gurgling - which necessitates you removing the cap and cleaning out the inner bore of the mouthpiece tube.

This cannot always be resolved with just giving it a puff down the tube to clear it out either - I know I have tried that - sometimes you can give it a good blast down there and it won't clear out the condensate..

It does get really bad - if you take the filler section off and suck gently through it it'll behave just like an old penny whistle!!!

I really like this atomiser but it's a pain in the .... to have to partially disassemble it every twenty minutes to clean out the bore in order to enjoy your vape.

I've had a good look at the atty and I've identified what I think is the problem..

I have to ask Perseas - is there any specific requirement for this part of the mouthpiece pipe? - Inside the main bore of the pipe there is a smaller bore section approximately 1mm smaller than the main bore.. is there a special reason for this section - or is this maybe an incomplete machining process?

I ask because it is this section causing all the problems..

You see after a while condensate builds up in the mouth piece - I have never had an atomiser where this does not occur - In fact I think it's impossible to vape and not generate condensate in some form or another.. I have a few spheroids and condensate occurs in the drip tip well of tem also - but this gurgling never occurs and the obvious answer is that the spheroid bore is a 3mm bore approximately all the way down and basically condensate gets to run down the sides of the bore --- BUT crucially the bore itself is wide enough for the meniscus / surface tension properties of the juice to not take hold..

The smaller 2mm inner bore is small enough that the juices cohesion properties makes it just stick there causing a partial fluid lock - which then you have to suck later vapes through that juice barrier and you get bubbling and gurgling as a result.. and it gets to the point when you can have quite a lot of juice condensate pooling above that section to overcome

I'm going to try boring mine out with a suitable drill bit to see if that gets rids of the problem - I'll report back if it does..

OK - I took mine out to 2.95 mm - which is slightly smaller than the 3mm bore - for me this has TOTALLY solved the problem!

No more gurgling..

No more juice in the mouth and the only side effect is that the draw becomes marginally less tight - but thanks to the excellent design on the adjustable airflow that is not a problem at all.....

Now this has become my favourite atomiser by far...

A slight word of warning though - anyone having similar issues - do not attempt what I just did unless you know you are competent enough to do it..

I've got many years of mechanical engineering experience and a certain level of ....-suredness that comes with it - to let me do this with a battery operated drill - a good drill bit and just holding them in my hands!

If you have or know someone with a lather who's competent enough to not mark the atomiser then that would be the best option..

DarthPistachio


Thank you very much for this detailed analysis!

You're right, although the reasons for gurgling are many times the way the filler is putted causing over-wicking and/or a weak battery that creates partial vaporisation and condensation is gathering inside the bell. We designed this section for compressing the vapour further, but the gurgling shows that we weren't right. We shall produce an updated bell the next weeks and we'll send it as a replacement to the owners of the Heron. I strongly suggest to the Heron owners to send us NO email about it, when we shall send it, if we can put it inside an order, etc.
The sooner we make it, the soonest we'll send it to the initial owners at no cost on behalf of them.

Perseas

 

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March 28, Vapourday

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GP HERON TIPS & TRICKS

By Downtrodn

Ribbon build

So I thought I'd give the included ribbon wire a try.
Holy crap! Best build yet. Here's some pics... film at eleven.

5/6 Wrap .8 ribbon @ about 1ohm, cotton ball about 28mm on either side of the coil.



Push cotton down into the well as this will help soak up any excess juice and keep it from seeping down the airhole.



Wicks are still tall enough to reach the filler. I'm not using the cotton cap.



Enjoy

 

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GP HERON TIPS & TRICKS

By Idaholandho

So now, Heron questions.

It was extremely difficult to take it apart to give it its first bath. The segments bound by the o-rings just wouldn't come apart. I finally put it in the freezer, and using rubber grippy kitchen gloves it came apart.

Question one is, when I put it back together should the o-rings be lubed a bit with some juice?

Question two is, I'm going to do a first build with the standard loop as shown in a couple of places in the VapourArt website. The visuals seem to be using wire. Should I use the ribbon which came with the Heron, or the 28g Kanthal which I have? If I use ribbon, do I need to adjust the set up for ribbon?

Depending on your comfort level feel free to use the ribbon. It is important that of you are familiar with the resistance of ribbon or wire size that you will use. To be a step ahead of even some experienced vapors is to learn ohm's law prior to building.
Many vapors just do a search to see what others are wrapping to "copy" their coil ohms. Learning the specs of wire dimension and the length needed to find your sweet spot is imperative aside from the fact that you will learn and be able to teach the next newyork on the thread. Learn how to hit your sweet spot with any gauge wire based on wire length(wraps).
Here is a great calculator and chart that will help.

Steam Engine | free calculators for your vaping endeavors



Ribbon can be used in an overlapping position or in a standard coil fashion. Many will say ribbon is superior than regular wire, I am one.
It seems to cover more surface area and heats more surface area of the wick.

Same coil

GL my Martini drinking friend.

 

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GP Mod Case prototype

We are not fond of presentation boxes, because after the initial unboxing, they become useless and we don't wish to make them in China either. But a carry case is useful and protects the mods, permitting also to get with you a few spares, batteries, etc.

It is made in Sofia exclusively for Vapourart by a local firm specialised in holsters, leather and textile hunting and weapon accessories. We used 1000 denier Cordura heavy duty fabric. Our design is based on a double magazine holster reinforced with a protective cover and a hidden pocket secured with very strong velcro fasteners. Each one of the two mod holders is fully adjustable to accommodate up to a GP Heron on a GP PAPS v3 18650 mod. A small label cloth at the seams of the back side/or inside, will be present at the production case with the name of Vapourart on it, to keep the overall look simple and understated. The initial production will be limited and this GP mod case will be included with every one of the upcoming GP PAPS X Lux and GP PAPS X Ti mods.

 

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GP PAPS LUX EDITION v3 UPDATE

GP PAPS 18500 LUX EDITION v3 coming in May

Top cap and switch with reverse threaded locking ring from 316 EU certified SS, tube from a copper alloy called aluminium bronze, 4 times more expensive than 316 SS, 15+ micron silver plated post and GPin. A GP single belt holster made from 1000 den cordura, manufactured in Sofia exclusively for us by a company specialized in military holsters will be included. Price will remain the same with the previous version 2.5, although the holster, the milled engravings, the complexity of the switch and the top cap have increased the production cost. Due to the change of the default tube from 18350 to 18500, the numbering is starting again from #15 and up.