The problem is spending 40 weekly on coils for it...
Now that does hurt..
Anyways, flame if you must, but you guys that smoked you didnt even blink when it came to plunking down $50-$60 on ONE carton of cigs that might or might not last you 7-8 days...
The price for the Innokin SVD2.0/Dna 20watt was announced at $99.00 U.S. Also the top cap was completely redesigned. I like it. I like it even more after the New Provari P3 was stated to be 20watts also...Here's a pic....![]()
Yeah, especially after rewicking and rewiring the Protank 2 heads, ive been surprised at how well they vape. I bought the Protank as a backup figuring id like the TDC iclear; it worked out completely the opposite.
I will try going slightly larger than 1/16th with 30 gauge. As long as I hit 1.4 ohms I should have enough room to hit my desired wattage. I vape around 9 watts, so even if the 1.4 ohm means I hit the MVP's amp limit before 11 watts, it should give me 9 watts just fine. I cant imagine going larger than 30 gauge because of heat-up time. I have considered going 32 gauge dual coil, but I need to work out this Russian problem before I start messing with that.
+1 on having a good spare tank. The Protank has been my go-to and has given me almost no issues- no leaks, dry hits, etc. I did get some flooding with 60/40 juice when I went too light on wick, but that was easily fixed and my fault. My only issue is that I dont have a spare mod. So anytime I want to try something, I need to switch tanks on the MVP. Another MVP or an SVD is my next vaping purchase for sure. It seems the upper level 30watt mods and such are much more unreliable, and I think anything over 11 watts would be lost on me. On the other hand, the SVD allows a higher ceiling.
Correct me if im wrong, but increasing the airflow at the airflow adjuster or raising the coil height will inversely affect vacuum on the juice channels, right? I love airy draws, but in an attempt to get some working configuration, Ive cranked down the air adjuster a bit to add vacuum at the juice channels. I hear you on cotton- I have gotten the amount of cotton down on my Protank coils which work perfect tank after tank- and im using the same size coil on the Russian as I do on the Protank heads.
I definitely look forward to getting the Russian hitting right; it works great when it works.
Ironically, I get the best overall experience on my Protank coils with 32 gauge 6 wraps. Running 8 wraps 30 gauge seems to take a LONG time to start hitting well- say 4-5 seconds. On the russian, Ive used the same 30 guage 8 wraps and it seems to hit faster; the only thing I can think of is the chimney design? It definitely produces within a 1-2 seconds. It must just be that the whole coil area is more substantiative than the Protank coils. On paper I would swear its my imagination, but I can literally prove it doing a side-by-side comparison.
I bought the Russian from All About Vapor in Round Rock, so ill prolly take it back and see if they can provide me with guidance. I could have saved 10-15 bucks buying online (maybe, considering shipping its prolly less) but I figured Id support local business. Hopefully theyll help me out![]()
While im no expert, it seems to me I understand how it works. At the same time, I must be wrong because it makes no sense to me why a 60/40 juice wouldnt feed when I have low airflow (for increased vacuum), a low-height coil (for more vacuum), no obstructions over the juice channels, no leaks, a clear path from external airhole to coil airhole, wick configurations ranging from too much, too little, "perfect", etc. The only thing left is slightly bigger coils with less wraps, trying Midniteoyl's wick design, and possibly whatever it is that im missing.
Ill let you guys know when/if I figure it out. I appreciate all the help and apologies for the novella response![]()
99 bucks, well looks like a no-go for me, just assume to buy another Cloupor, was considering the IPV but the box and parts are to cheap and it's a damn shame because the chip is awesome, awesome chip surrounded by cheap parts and GOD help ya if you drop it.....gonna wait for a better built device....just my opinion and i'm not trying to raise a stink.
We have been spoiled by the MVP at around $40. For that price you get a $10 topper, a charging cable, a battery pack, and a box. My Zmax was $40 without a topper or battery or charger. Still a good value in a tube though.
99 bucks, well looks like a no-go for me, just assume to buy another Cloupor, was considering the IPV but the box and parts are to cheap and it's a damn shame because the chip is awesome, awesome chip surrounded by cheap parts and GOD help ya if you drop it.....gonna wait for a better built device....just my opinion and i'm not trying to raise a stink.
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They are a lot cheaper than that and the old coils are easily rebuildable , looking to rebuild the new ones as well but they are still working great many days later. The new BVC last a long time and many have commented they have been using just one going on two weeks so a five pack for $12.99 should last you a good while.
Actually i blinked a lot , sometimes nonstop i was so outraged over the price.
I forgot to mention that the MVP does not have a 33 chip but much higher and gives a smooth wave of power.
I have noticed that my VV3 and Zmax will not perform as well when the battery gets low. I suppose the chip can only boost so much. I have never noticed that with my MVP.
In the seven months I have been in this thread, I have only seen one button failure post.
My Zmax is susceptible to battery sag as well but over all it has been a decent 33hz device. I'd heard SOoooo... much negativity towards 33hz chipsets that I thought I'd hate them but....Bah., No biggie. Vapes good for me. Guess I'm not real picky or perhaps it takes a Carto-tank to really amplify the Buzz....?
Been away for a few days. Finally made up my mind on the next mod. Mechs are pretty, but MVP with the customization spoiled me.
Picked up the IPV2 50 watt and must say that it is a fabulous device for those looking for dripping power.
MVP w/ KFL is still in rotation and the new dripping machine!!!
Such flavor
Herb knows what I'm talkin about![]()
Just got my MVP2 in the mail today and trying to figure out the settings, I'm a newbie and last ecig, I only had to worry about setting the Volts, should I keep my volts the same on my Mvp2?
Keirster did you watch P Busardo video on the IPV2 ?
and out of safety, seems one Co has a recall out on them
might wanna look into it...![]()
To Whom It May Concern:
JJVapes is voluntarily recalling all IPV V2 mods sold to our customers due to a malfunction found to overheat an internal electrical component, causing smoke to be released through the bottom “vent holes” of the unit. On August 4th, 2014 a JJVapes team member experienced this issue while using their personal unit, only a couple of weeks after the product’s release. We would like to be clear, this is NOT a recall issued by the manufacturer. The manufacturer has been notified, and we are awaiting a response.
Though this may have been a fluke event, we are asking any and all customers who purchased this device from JJVapes to please return it for a full refund, while more testing is conducted on the IPV V2. If you currently own an IPV V2 that was not purchased from JJVapes, we ask that you please use caution and care, as with any vaping device.
Thanks,
The JJVapes Team
*EDIT*
We are receiving requests for more information of the incident.. So here it goes!
*The mod was NOT plugged in and charging
*The battery was a VTC5 with 3/4 of a charge on it
*The build was a .5ohm dual coil
*The wattage was set a 30.0W
As the regular (side) button was pressed, it did not heat up the coil (it WAS working FINE prior to this). When the team member looked down at the unit to see what the screen was reading, they seen the smoke coming out of the vent holes. Naturally, they tossed the unit onto their back porch (in fear of a venting battery). A minute later, the unit was retrieved and the back panel was taken off for inspection. The VTC5 battery was still in perfect shape, while a portion of the plastic hold the chip in place had melted, looking like someone took a soldering gun through the plastic cover. We are not sure if the unit would have continued to overheat (and melt), as the tossing of the unit may have jarred the battery loose, removing power to the unit. Hope this helps!