iTaste MVP v2 Owners Group
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If your going with an Evolve board i would just pay the $50.00 and get the whole deal even if you have the charging part , the Evolve DNA board has been difficult to get at times and your probably going to pay right around the same whether you get the board with or without it .
For $56.00 you can get the Fasttech DNA V3 model which has received great reviews and it even comes with a great quality battery , the early Fasttech versions got mediocre reviews but the latest are excellent .
By going this route you get a great quality box with the latest finish (finish is very impressive by the way, a friend has two ) and the latest chip , if you like the way it performs you can just buy the chip and put it in your other box and you will only pay twenty something bucks instead of fifty plus.
Herb, what kind of resistance are you getting? I've tried 28g wire, and it takes too long for me to heat up (but maybe that's part of my problem?) I've tried 32g and 30g. Thirty seems to be my preference (not to mention that I have 98% of a 100' spool left)
When i ran my Kayfun on my MVP i got resistances ranging from 1.5 -1.9 with 28 gauge but i noticed if you limit the coil diameter to 1/16th and no higher the MVP provides a great vape .
When i tried larger diameter coils on the Kayfun and MVP it did not work well because of the slow heat up and a quick MVP shutoff time , 1/16 works though . I actually have tried all different size coils including 1/16 , 5/64 , 3/32 , 7/64 and even 1/8 and to be honest i do not see any vape advantage with the larger ones even when using a higher powered device .
With the MVP i always go no larger than 1/16th with 28 gauge but if you use 30 and 32 gauge you can but again i don't see any real vape differences.
I don't really like 32 gauge because of two things , the first is it's too thin and breaks easily ( and will spring loose from the coil if you let it slip and entangle your body lol ), secondly, it doesn't provide enough coil surface area , your typically at your preferred resistance with as little as four to five wraps instead of eight or ten with the 28 and 30 gauge.
Supposedly the more coils that make contact with your wick the better the vape , four or five very thin 32 gauge coils have very limited contact area .
Oops i forgot to ask , anybody know a place where i can get a replacement Kayfun deck assembly , both of the screw holes on mine no longer hold the screws , screws are too loose , bummer .
I know some of you know of some great vendors for this and hoping to not overpay , dang Kayfun only cost $16.00 .
Thanks everybody
I know some of you know of some great vendors for this and hoping to not overpay , dang Kayfun only cost $16.00 .
Thanks everybody
Believe it or not Fasttech does not have or offer what i'm looking for lol , they have spare parts but not the exact type i'm looking for .
Thanks though
Fat daddy has what i am looking for but looking for others .
Well, im gonna have to stop with the Russian for awhile. Only got about 3 hours of sleep because I was bound and determined to fix what I had wrong, but no joy. Gonna write this before I start the day...
I know the coil itself is fine- lights up uniform across the entire coil. The MVP very clearly reads 1.6 ohms. I submerged the base in water and used compressed air to verify that the path between the airhole and hole under coil is unobstructed. I tried screwing the airflow control in where it was a very tight draw (to increase vacuum). Ive verified the system has a good seal- there is an oring where the chimney meets the top cap, the orings in the drip tip seat well, the orings where all the tank pieces come together are fine. I dont have leaking issues at all which suggests the orings are good, and if they were kinda bad I wouldnt be able to burp it as I mention below.
I have tried with the cotton flayed flat against the tower right at the deck. I tried with the cotton in a round shape at the deck. I read a thread where a guy swore the wick needed to be placed right by but not over the juice channels, so I tried that. I read another thread where a guy mentioned that lowering the coil reduces airflow and increases vacuum on the juice channels so I did that. I tried a ton of cotton, very little cotton, and something in between. Ive tried completely filling it, Ive tried barely filling it, and Ive tried filling it to where the juice is halfway on the clear plastic section.
To top it all off, Im running 60%pg/40%vg juice- the juice should easily wick with any one of my configurations.
Ive let it sit for 10 minutes after a rewick (and thats with the wicks presoaked). Same result every time. Take about 10 puffs with each one getting progressively lighter (worse). No air bubbles seem to be headed towards the top which seems strange. Then a dry hit. Burp it as per PufZeppelin's recommendation and the next few hits are great, then it gets worse, then dry hit. Rinse repeat.
Could I have gotten a defective one? It seems so simple I cant see how anything could possibly be wrong with it. It must be something im doing wrong
Ive had very little issue with rewiring and rewicking the Protank 2 coils though its a completely different design. Back to vaping on the Protank 2 for now
Time for some outside help? A Yelp search of Austin shows a bunch of vape shops. One guy talking about Amp Vapor got his Kayfun going for him.
ASPIRE Nautilus Mini...$24.99 = 4 packs of analogs...
Genuine ASPIRE Nautilus Mini - 101 Vape
ASPIRE Nautilus Mini...GrimmGreen (video link posted earlier) and IndoorSmokers both say it has "replaced" their Kayfuns for daily use!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XUzNF9WeoX8
Ya.. funny how people shy away from spending $25-$30 in one pop, but had no problems spending $40+ a week on cigs..
I was spending $135/month for the gum for 2 people. Not counting devices, I spend around $75 for juice and coils. I know I could knock that down considerably, if I wanted.
Ya.. funny how people shy away from spending $25-$30 in one pop, but had no problems spending $40+ a week on cigs..
Ya.. funny how people shy away from spending $25-$30 in one pop, but had no problems spending $40+ a week on cigs..
The difference is most already have various Clearo's and tanks which get them by just fine so a Nautilus mini is not a must , if they were limited to a Nautilus mini or regular analogs they wouldn't havea problem spending the money but thats not the case .
Thirty bucks is steep for a little tank regardless of how good it is.
I wasn't impressed with the iclear 30 that came with mine either. Went through liquid pretty fast. Good amount of vapor, but it gurgled and I was barely getting any flavor at all. Tried a couple different flavors, at lower wattage settings there was barely any flavor at all and at higher wattage settings there was just a burnt taste. I replaced it with a couple Evods. Much better flavor, and good amount of vapor. Replacement coils are about half the price of the dual coil iclear replacements. The downside is the liquid capacity is a bit small.
Sounds like you had a bad head for the Iclear , i had one like that a few days ago , terrible . I buy authentic five packs at FT for around $6.00 , one bad head out of the pack so far , taste is unreal for an off the shelf clearo.
Ya.. funny how people shy away from spending $25-$30 in one pop, but had no problems spending $40+ a week on cigs..
The problem is spending 40 weekly on coils for it...
might want to check out fatdaddy he might have what you need
SHOP - FatDaddyVapes.com - Home of the best vape tweaks and replacement hardware.
Now that does hurt..
Anyways, flame if you must, but you guys that smoked you didnt even blink when it came to plunking down $50-$60 on ONE carton of cigs that might or might not last you 7-8 days...
Yeah, especially after rewicking and rewiring the Protank 2 heads, ive been surprised at how well they vape. I bought the Protank as a backup figuring id like the TDC iclear; it worked out completely the opposite.Don't have the Aerotank or a full-size Protank2, but I do have the mini PT2 and some kayfun clones (lite, 2 minis, 3.1ES) Jandry, I'm so with you on "burning wicks and swearing at it"
Truthfully, I'm pretty happy with rebuilt heads on my EVOD tanks - I get good flavor and enough vapor to amuse me.
+1 on "impossibly subjective". I guess part of the "quest" is to find what is best for onesself
Enjoy the
I will try going slightly larger than 1/16th with 30 gauge. As long as I hit 1.4 ohms I should have enough room to hit my desired wattage. I vape around 9 watts, so even if the 1.4 ohm means I hit the MVP's amp limit before 11 watts, it should give me 9 watts just fine. I cant imagine going larger than 30 gauge because of heat-up time. I have considered going 32 gauge dual coil, but I need to work out this Russian problem before I start messing with that.Jandry, don't know if this will help much or not, but I've been finding that the 1/16" bit might be a touch too small for my kayfun decks. I have used one of the mini screwdrivers (NO idea what diameter) for a slightly larger coil. I've snaked the cotton like RipTripper has shown in his video; I've snipped the ends flush with the deck (as you show in your picture); I've done "bunny ears" and then tucked the primed wick back into the chimney base. My 3.1ES has BY FAR the best configuration. It's very airy, though, and it seems like I'm guzzling juice in that one (it's about 2.0Ω, and I've run everywhere from 8.0-10.0 W on that bad boy.) I've tried donesmokin's rayon and my normal cotton.
I also try to make sure there's some room between the coil and the air hole on the deck. Basically pry up the coil and make sure I can fit the mini flat-head screwdriver between the coil and the airhole on the deck. I had one of my minis rocking my world (absolutely no vacuum issues) and then I had to rewick it
When they RBAs work, they're AWESOME. When they don't, ya wanna just throw 'em.....
Thank god for spare tanks, so at least I can keep vaping while I'm cussing a blue streak
We'll get there!
:edit: One other trick someone else taught me here - if you have to "dump juice", get an empty bottle and unscrew the base. This releases the vacuum and allows the juice to flow out the tip into the bottle. I've saved at least 1/2 tank each time I've had to futz with the wicking.
+1 on having a good spare tank. The Protank has been my go-to and has given me almost no issues- no leaks, dry hits, etc. I did get some flooding with 60/40 juice when I went too light on wick, but that was easily fixed and my fault. My only issue is that I dont have a spare mod. So anytime I want to try something, I need to switch tanks on the MVP. Another MVP or an SVD is my next vaping purchase for sure. It seems the upper level 30watt mods and such are much more unreliable, and I think anything over 11 watts would be lost on me. On the other hand, the SVD allows a higher ceiling.
Correct me if im wrong, but increasing the airflow at the airflow adjuster or raising the coil height will inversely affect vacuum on the juice channels, right? I love airy draws, but in an attempt to get some working configuration, Ive cranked down the air adjuster a bit to add vacuum at the juice channels. I hear you on cotton- I have gotten the amount of cotton down on my Protank coils which work perfect tank after tank- and im using the same size coil on the Russian as I do on the Protank heads.
I definitely look forward to getting the Russian hitting right; it works great when it works.
Ironically, I get the best overall experience on my Protank coils with 32 gauge 6 wraps. Running 8 wraps 30 gauge seems to take a LONG time to start hitting well- say 4-5 seconds. On the russian, Ive used the same 30 guage 8 wraps and it seems to hit faster; the only thing I can think of is the chimney design? It definitely produces within a 1-2 seconds. It must just be that the whole coil area is more substantiative than the Protank coils. On paper I would swear its my imagination, but I can literally prove it doing a side-by-side comparison.
I bought the Russian from All About Vapor in Round Rock, so ill prolly take it back and see if they can provide me with guidance. I could have saved 10-15 bucks buying online (maybe, considering shipping its prolly less) but I figured Id support local business. Hopefully theyll help me out
While im no expert, it seems to me I understand how it works. At the same time, I must be wrong because it makes no sense to me why a 60/40 juice wouldnt feed when I have low airflow (for increased vacuum), a low-height coil (for more vacuum), no obstructions over the juice channels, no leaks, a clear path from external airhole to coil airhole, wick configurations ranging from too much, too little, "perfect", etc. The only thing left is slightly bigger coils with less wraps, trying Midniteoyl's wick design, and possibly whatever it is that im missing.
Ill let you guys know when/if I figure it out. I appreciate all the help and apologies for the novella response
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i have a problem with my mvp my iclear 30 and other 510 tanks dont register or fire but my protank 3 mini registers and fires and my ce4/whatever it is registers and fires im very confused and frustrated can anybody help me
The price for the Innokin SVD2.0/Dna 20watt was announced at $99.00 U.S. Also the top cap was completely redesigned. I like it. I like it even more after the New Provari P3 was stated to be 20watts also...Here's a pic
....
Center pin prolly too low.. nail clipper file wedged in there will allow you to pull it up a tad
I know most of us build 1.8-2.0 ohm coils for the MVP, but for those trying to balance thermal mass/heatup time, draw on tighter coil bays (i.e. Protank 2), theres this handy ohm's law calc you might want to bookmark:
Ohm's Law Calculator
Ive noticed it does strange things unless you do ".0", so 9 watts --> 9.0 watts, 7.5 watts --> 7.5 watts, etc. Helped me to figure out if my 1.5 ohm protank coil would hit my desired wattage without hitting the lower voltage limit of the MVP, so thought id share..
EDIT** For newer users, just as a reminder:
MVP 2 Voltage limits: 3.3 to 5 volts
MVP 2 Wattage limits: 6.0 to 11.0 watts
MVP 2 Amp limit: 3.5 amps
Ohm's Law Calculator
Ive noticed it does strange things unless you do ".0", so 9 watts --> 9.0 watts, 7.5 watts --> 7.5 watts, etc. Helped me to figure out if my 1.5 ohm protank coil would hit my desired wattage without hitting the lower voltage limit of the MVP, so thought id share..
EDIT** For newer users, just as a reminder:
MVP 2 Voltage limits: 3.3 to 5 volts
MVP 2 Wattage limits: 6.0 to 11.0 watts
MVP 2 Amp limit: 3.5 amps
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