Awsum, ran across this post with a pictorial of rebuilding a CE3...http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/atomizer-mods/294873-ce3xl-phoenix-tank-rebuild-how.html
New CE3s, nothing but trouble for me
- Thread starter BiXLL
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
Awsum, ran across this post with a pictorial of rebuilding a CE3...http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/atomizer-mods/294873-ce3xl-phoenix-tank-rebuild-how.html
A CE3 a week! Holy vape, Batman. I go through, typically, two a day and sometimes as many as four. I don't think I'll ever only use one a week, but what I will do is the next time I get down to the atomizer housing on a new one and an old one, I'll put them in my loading block, formally used for loading .38/.357, and let them sit there for a week to see if they leak. Any leak in a CE3 or T3 has to happen because air is seeping in above the liquid and upsetting the pressure equalization path. Basically, any air that can get in through any path other than the atomizer chamber from below the wicks will cause a leak.
Great pictoral! The photos are really good and clear, had to be a decent camera. Maybe I'll give it a shot when I get snowed or rained in for a while, just for a laugh. I am surprised there was no soldering between the nichrome and "zero" resistance wires.
There is on going debate as to the need for NR (no resistance) wire. Some have burned the positive post seal without it, and others have zero problem. (This discussion was mostly from ViviNova rebuilders, but should carry over to any similar setup) I've done a Vivi both ways and without NR wire I didn't see any burning of the seal, could be because I'm not a high volt/watt vaper.
If you think you might want to toy with soldering the 2 wires, check this thread out...http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...095-resistance-no-resistance-wire-welder.html
Something else for the "play" time!
Why didn't I see this twenty years ago? I used to build some really heavy duty regulated supplies, 0-16 volts at 0-50 amps, for use with some higher powered radio equipment. I had tons of 65,000 mfd @ 150 volt capacitors hanging around that ended up in a dumpster when I got divorced, although it would have taken quite a few of those. Now it looks like I'll be collecting parts for a CD welder. Heck, I even had 300 amp SCRs in my parts collection. D$%N!
ahhh, just a few bucks at CrapShack (or whatever the slang is for Radio Shack, my CRS kicked in 
) and a little side trip to Walgreens or CVS and your in business.
) and a little side trip to Walgreens or CVS and your in business.
I've been thinking (always a dangerous thing to do) about the need for zero resistance wire. From what I've seen of the CE3 coil and wires there is no transition to zero resistance wire at all so it's probably not really needed.
I haven't taken one apart that far yet to see, waiting for one to die. It sure would make it easier to recoil if it wasn't needed. From an electrical standpoint, (and I'm no electrical person) I would think it would help the efficiency of the coil and put the power to the coil only, giving a faster heat up/response time. The difference is probably minute (sp?).
Have you vaped those CE3s you put the old air tube in yet? I'm wondering how much difference the new air tube (with the small tube extending into the air chamber) is making. I've kinda noticed the newest version is a little more sensitive to draws too close together and/or longer draws.
Have you vaped those CE3s you put the old air tube in yet? I'm wondering how much difference the new air tube (with the small tube extending into the air chamber) is making. I've kinda noticed the newest version is a little more sensitive to draws too close together and/or longer draws.
I haven't converted any of the new SI CE3s just yet, they're still getting tested as they came. I have converted a bunch from another vendor who shall remain nameless. They work perfectly and the lack of that dead space between the inner seal and the mouthpiece doesn't seem to matter at all. No increase in "wet" hits if you know what I mean. I will say that the tolerances aren't all that good between the coil housing and the air tube. I've had to do a little grinding to get one or two to fit, but other than that, no biggie other than having to cut the length of the mouthpiece down. The inner seal could also be cut down a little and eliminate that problem as well, but one or the other does need to be shortened.
The other wire on the nichrome is stated as a no resistance wire, that's wrong. Every wire has resistance just the normal ones have a very low one.
These wires are normally spot welded on the factory but it can be done at home too.
And btw use fiberglass instead of cotton, wool, plastic, depleted uranium etc
These wires are normally spot welded on the factory but it can be done at home too.
And btw use fiberglass instead of cotton, wool, plastic, depleted uranium etc
That reminds me. I wish we could have colored vapor! There's probably a very good health/chemical reason why that isn't a thing though.
Yeah I've seen those. Might be good for a laugh. I wonder if they actually work worth a #@)! though....
I've opened another of the newer CE3s. Performing just fine so far, no leaks and almost through a first fill. I've noticed that the new ones are primed differently. The wicks seem to have primer on them but not as much as the original ones. That is, in the first batch you could see the primer inside the plastic tube, these ones they look clean. However, nasty taste for a few drags.
Tramd, I ended up dumping the liquid from the first fill of ten of the new version so I could flush them out, that was kind of bad. They've been working fine since then. Just through the first fill, so far, but no leaks no seeping, good flavor and good vapor. I'll have to see how they hold up. Since I got a P-Touch I'm labeling them with the date they went into service to be able to track them with all my others.
- Status
Similar threads
- Locked
