Well thank you but if I can do them really anyone can. That's 1.7 ohm on 28 kanthal....these builds are easier then any I have done on my protanks. The one I'm running in another kayfun is 6 weeks old and still going strong.
Older Folks and Vaping Front Porch - Part 2
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Well thank you but if I can do them really anyone can. That's 1.7 ohm on 28 kanthal....these builds are easier then any I have done on my protanks. The one I'm running in another kayfun is 6 weeks old and still going strong.
I'm sorry, I should have said nic in PG and nic in VG. Kurt prefers nic in VG and it turned out to be the freezer winner by a smidge.
If you meant unmixed PG/VG, in the post I responded to, I only have my experience on that. I haven't read anything about anyone having it go bad. I don't freeze PG or VG when it is unmixed, I keep mine in a dark place until I'm ready to use it. I've not had either go bad yet. Several here buy it by the gallon.
Someone had asked me about this awhile ago and I did a quick ECF search and found this but don't remember who the original poster was -
The shelf life of e-liquids at room temperature is determined by the shelf life of the base chemicals.
Shelf life according to Dow Chemical:
Propylene Glycol (PG): 24 months
Glycerin (VG): 14-24 months
The shelf life of the nicotine, flavorings and other ingredients can affect shelf life depending on user preferences. For instance, nicotine could oxidize and flavors could change prior to other shelf life limits. Nicotine and the juice will yellow and darken as oxidation proceeds.
The shelf life for PG and VG given above is for Propylene Glycol USP and Glycerin USP that has been poured from sealed bottles, exposed to air, mixed and stored away from sunlight at room temperature. E-liquid bases are exposed to air during preparation and mixing.
The shelf life for Glycerin USP and Propylene Glycol USP is much longer provided the product is stored in unopened USP described and FDA approved sealed containers. I have purchased fresh Glycerin USP with a five year expiration date. That's five years at room temperature, unopened and away from sunlight.
Well drat! I loaded Libreoffice and that file still insists on being opened with MS Office.
It's always something. That's ok, I got enough info from everyone that I'll be able to do it by trial and error. And NOT blow myself up!
Now the never ending wait for vapemail.
It's always something. That's ok, I got enough info from everyone that I'll be able to do it by trial and error. And NOT blow myself up!
Now the never ending wait for vapemail.
A bunch of posts back the questions about cotton vs: silica got me thinking to all the wick material I've gone through on my vape journey. I'll skip over what ever the stuffing in carto's is and list the rest.
So ncpatches, once you decide on standard coil, micro coil, nano coil, vertical or horizontal coil, dragon coil, or Clapton coil; you'll have plenty of options of what wick material to use.
- Pillow Stuffing
- Aquarium Blue Foam
- SS Mesh (325 & 400, then 500, then 600)
- Silica
- Cotton Yarn
- Bamboo Yarn
- Cotton Rolls/Balls
- Hemp (twine & fiber)
- DIY Ceramic from Petsmart Aquarium Bubble Stones
- FC2000 Ceramic
- DIY 60# grit Alumina Oxide Tile Polishing Stones
- Nextel XC-116
- (bypassed Ecowool and German Ecowool)
- and the next best wick just hit the scene yesterday, gotta order me some, ta da = Ramie (Chinese Grass) Fiber
So ncpatches, once you decide on standard coil, micro coil, nano coil, vertical or horizontal coil, dragon coil, or Clapton coil; you'll have plenty of options of what wick material to use.
K, I have the Kanger Protank 2, and I watched Busardos video on how to change the wick, and he makes it look so easy, but how do you guys get that pin out? you know you take the little plastic/rubbery thing off and he just pulls the pin thing so he can see the wicks, but I can pull till it freezes over ( oh wait, just looked outside, it has ) and it doesn't budge! Im afraid to use pliers or anything to hold it with, cause I might mess it up
Also, I would like to go to a VV/VW device upgrade from my Evod... any suggestions?
A bunch of posts back the questions about cotton vs: silica got me thinking to all the wick material I've gone through on my vape journey. I'll skip over what ever the stuffing in carto's is and list the rest.
- Pillow Stuffing
- Aquarium Blue Foam
- SS Mesh (325 & 400, then 500, then 600)
- Silica
- Cotton Yarn
- Bamboo Yarn
- Cotton Rolls/Balls
- Hemp (twine & fiber)
- DIY Ceramic from Petsmart Aquarium Bubble Stones
- FC2000 Ceramic
- DIY 60# grit Alumina Oxide Tile Polishing Stones
- Nextel XC-116
- (bypassed Ecowool and German Ecowool)
- and the next best wick just hit the scene yesterday, gotta order me some, ta da = Ramie (Chinese Grass) Fiber
So ncpatches, once you decide on standard coil, micro coil, nano coil, vertical or horizontal coil, dragon coil, or Clapton coil; you'll have plenty of options of what wick material to use.
Thanks Mike, my brain just melted with your last sentence.
Thanks Mike, my brain just melted with your last sentence.
Cotton is your friend!
Oh, here's some more information overload. This spreadsheet seems to get updated regularly for wire gauge, wraps, and what size you're wrapping around for what Ωs to expect. (And don't forget your results may/can vary a bit from all these posted numbers, that's why I said, keep notes).
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AiaRSDxC1vG6dC1HZEtmY0pPYzBvdUw2blJHVjdkc1E&usp=sharing#gid=0
The thread is here where I found it.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/reos-mods/446263-micro-coils-ohms-description-22.html#post12289433
A bunch of posts back the questions about cotton vs: silica got me thinking to all the wick material I've gone through on my vape journey. I'll skip over what ever the stuffing in carto's is and list the rest.
- Pillow Stuffing
- Aquarium Blue Foam
- SS Mesh (325 & 400, then 500, then 600)
- Silica
- Cotton Yarn
- Bamboo Yarn
- Cotton Rolls/Balls
- Hemp (twine & fiber)
- DIY Ceramic from Petsmart Aquarium Bubble Stones
- FC2000 Ceramic
- DIY 60# grit Alumina Oxide Tile Polishing Stones
- Nextel XC-116
- (bypassed Ecowool and German Ecowool)
- and the next best wick just hit the scene yesterday, gotta order me some, ta da = Ramie (Chinese Grass) Fiber
So ncpatches, once you decide on standard coil, micro coil, nano coil, vertical or horizontal coil, dragon coil, or Clapton coil; you'll have plenty of options of what wick material to use.
Your way ahead of me on wicks!! How was the ceramic Nextel XC-116? Never used hemp, stones, pillow stuffing or Chinese grass ... Maybe Colombian as a young guy.
There is a free program called openoffice that CAN open it.
Dang..... that is done in MS Office and I don't have that, can't open it.
I will never need anything as technical as that document, and I don't know why I tried, but
I have OpenOffice, and I had no problem getting it to open. It even has the author's name pjmarkert 2013 close to the top.
Hi all!
My goodness, so much has transpired since I was here last night!
Got a quick question....you experienced people seem to have an unlimited supply of links for things, anyone have a link to a video for rebuilding ProTank coils?
And just what is the difference between regular coils and micro coils and when and why would you use one over the other?
I'm looking to start rebuilding, but there is so much to learn first.
Alisa just put this up: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...13-innokin-itaste-vv-v3-owners-group-206.html
Scroll down to post 2060
It's for a T3S, but the PT is essentially the same rebuild.
The name of the application within Libre Office that opens .xls files is Libre Office Calc. I'm able to use Libre Office to open the file by right clicking on the file and selecting Libre Office from the "open with" choices.Well drat! I loaded Libreoffice and that file still insists on being opened with MS Office.
It's always something. That's ok, I got enough info from everyone that I'll be able to do it by trial and error. And NOT blow myself up!
Now the never ending wait for vapemail.
Open Office will also work. I don't grok how or why Libre Office is better than Open Office, but the people who say that Libre Office is better sound like they know what they're talking about, so I have both. Something about the original developers of Open Office having moved on to establish Libre Office.
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Wud am I missin here? MS office is a suite of programs so that's not an "office" file, per se. It's an excel file that is a program that's "part" of office. (office = word, excel, powerpoint, access... and I dunno what else) I have office so it's no problem opening an excel file.
Ty Janet but it was really a photobucket test run. I didn't have any cheerleader pictures so I went the next best route.
There is a free program called openoffice that CAN open it.
try opening the program, then do the file-open to see if you can open itWell drat! I loaded Libreoffice and that file still insists on being opened with MS Office.
It's always something. That's ok, I got enough info from everyone that I'll be able to do it by trial and error. And NOT blow myself up!
Now the never ending wait for vapemail.
well... Not everyone can AFFORD to purchase MS office... Like other MS programs, people target it for virus attack, and these open source projects make life fun for everyone involved. Weather they write them or ask for a particular functionality.
MS Office is software that costs mucho bucks. OpenOffice and LibreOffice are both suites of programs that have multiple uses, just like MSOffice. I have OpenOffice (which is free) so it's no problem opening an excel file.
Your way ahead of me on wicks!! How was the ceramic Nextel XC-116? Never used hemp, stones, pillow stuffing or Chinese grass ... Maybe Colombian as a young guy.
Yeah, I hear ya .... but I didn't use that as a wick. Anyways
DIY AO (Alumina Oxide) was my favorite / go-to wick for Gennys until Iffy turned me on to Nextel (actually ReadyXWick from RBA supplies). I was using my R91 w/ hemp and vertical wicks. It worked very well but i'm susceptible to the taste of hemp. It was Ok w/ my bakky flavors but added an unwanted taste to my fruits which are my ADVs.
So when I got the ReadXWick I converted the R91 to it. BOY! i became a convert on the 1st vape. Vapor production was fine and taste was spot on from the git-go. No break-in needed no 'off' taste added. I was so happy with it in the R91, I next setup a Taifun clone w/ it and had the same good results. Then I took out an AO ceramic (remember that was my favorite wick) from a DID and set it up w/ Nextel. Same good results. So then 2 more Gennys got switched over too.
It's so much easier to setup in a genny than ceramic (these things snap in pieces if you look at them wrong) and it setups up in a kayfun/r91 type device as easy as cotton. Another big benefit is you can dry burn it. Eliminates pulling the cotton and putting in new cotton. Every few tanks I just give it a dry burn, rinse under hot water, pat dry, add a few drips of juice and put the whole thing back together. I've been running the same wicks for a couple-few weeks now and they're still going strong.
It is 'spendy' @ $8 a foot, but you only use a 1" - 1 1/2" inches per build and it looks like it will last quite awhile. So overall not really expensive when you think of paying a couple bucks per head for a clearo type topper.
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Well drat! I loaded Libreoffice and that file still insists on being opened with MS Office.
It's always something. That's ok, I got enough info from everyone that I'll be able to do it by trial and error. And NOT blow myself up!
Now the never ending wait for vapemail.
Right mouse-click on the *.exe and choose Open With.
K, I have the Kanger Protank 2, and I watched Busardos video on how to change the wick, and he makes it look so easy, but how do you guys get that pin out? you know you take the little plastic/rubbery thing off and he just pulls the pin thing so he can see the wicks, but I can pull till it freezes over ( oh wait, just looked outside, it has ) and it doesn't budge! Im afraid to use pliers or anything to hold it with, cause I might mess it up
The pin can be a problem. I sometimes get them out by wedging fingernails under opposite sides, and wiggling it out. You can also get round nose needle nose pliers. Bead supply or hardware stores for that. They don't have the ridges of regular, so don't damage the pin, and one side can go into the pin hole.
I get 2.2 to 2.4 Ωs wrapping 8/7 with 32 gauge Kanthal A1 on a 4/40 machine screw. Wrap in the direction of the thread pitch, and you'll have perfectly evenly spaced turns.
And sometimes I'll lay my wick along a straightened out paper clip, where practice is needed to get even coils. But similar to the blunt needle, leave the whole thing together until the legs are fastened down and the pin is back in.
I like to recoil my Kanger styles with silica so I can dry burn a few times, but use cotton yarn for flavor wicks. I tend to wash the whole thing every fill or so, and pull the chimney when I do to see if a dry burn is desired. Flavor wicks get replaced a lot on my porch
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