Well that's good that there's a lot of
Thanks. I've read it many times but this time it makes sense.
Pretty well covered, but some additional info.
Wire gauge is counter-intuitive at these sizes. It defines the diameter of the wire, but goes backward. 26 is a bigger diameter than, say, 30.
Gauge / diameter (along with material, of course, so for this just keep thinking all the same material, kanthal, ss, whatever) determines the resistance (ohms) of the wire. The bigger the diameter, the lower the resistance for the same length of wire.
So you don't have a wire that's 1.5 Ω unless it's cut to the precise length needed depending on the wire gauge.
A coil will have a length of wire, but we don't usually measure it out. We build to a given ID and number of turns. The bigger the ID, the more wire it takes to get a given number of turns to the coil. Keeping the same ID and number of turns, you'll get a lower final resistance with a bigger gauge (smaller number, remember) than with a higher gauge (bigger number.)
So it's really just you deciding what resistance you want to vape at, and what size wire. Plug those into any of the mentioned calculators, and plug in the ID coil you want, and they'll spit out how many turns you need.
Leg length is, of course, part of the total length of the coil. Some calculators ask for it (they should!!). Just estimated the length from the end of the coiled part to the terminal post, for each end, of course, and add that in.
Being a tootler, and not liking the ramp up/cool down time of the bigger wires, I build all my coils with 30. (Although I do use 32 for Kanger single bottom coils, to get the resistance I want. Then again, been a long time since I've vaped
Thanks. I've read it many times but this time it makes sense.
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