Older Folks and Vaping Front Porch - Part 5

[2legsshrt]

But with the dna's I could try a different wire profile and probaably get a good hit in TC also. And actually it wasn't hitting good because my coil was so gunked up. With a dry burnt SS coil 7 days my coil looked like a raisin. So it wasn't working very well and now the SX's are working good in power also.

 

[DaveP]

Yep that's all I use anymore is spaced coils. I have one 26awg kanthal coil wrapped up but just haven't put it in anything yet. I'm sure it would be a cloud monster. That's what I like about SS is switchability between TC and Power. I've found that the SX's actually taste better in TC with the Max Vg juice and the DNA's better in Power.

The down side of increasing wire size is the number of turns it takes to get the resistance up. 10 wraps at 2mm is about .8 ohms SS and 1.6 ohms with Kanthal for me. With 2.5mm coils it was around 1 ohm SS and 2 ohm Kanthal. You might have to adjust coil diameter to get the resistance and number of turns to your liking.

 

[2legsshrt]

Well I don't worry about the resistance all of my mods fire down to .05ohms so I'm ok there. I prefer 26awg because it is a perfect fit in my attys normally 6 wraps space is limited and I could go 7 but that is tight.

 

[DaveP]

Well I don't worry about the resistance all of my mods fire down to .05ohms so I'm ok there. I prefer 26awg because it is a perfect fit in my attys normally 6 wraps space is limited and I could go 7 but that is tight.

I forget whether you mentioned the wattage you vape at. I have some 26ga and at my 10W or 400F max in TC 26ga seems to heat up slower than 28ga. Just something to consider. My 28ga begins to sizzle in a about a second. 26ga takes a tad longer, so wattage may need to be upped a little with 26ga. The important factor is which one suits your vaping style.

 

[2legsshrt]

Yeah I have noticed that also. I'm trying different wattages in power with 26 usually takes a couple of hits for it to really get going with my DNA's with the SX's they have 4 modes and can use Powerfull+ or Powerful which gives you a few seconds at 15% or 10% abouve setting which works well. The DNA's only have preheat in TC mode. Just tried 20w on my DNA with a .5ohm coil and works well problem being is battery life.

 

[Ken_A]

Flaming Tutu Tropical Cherry

or Strawberry Queen's King-clone

Which flav manufacturer?

first one I made from scratch
the second one I made from a favorite flavor from "Strawberry Queen"
Strawberry Queen Premium E-Juice | eLiquid.com: #1 Source

 

[Alter]

I stuff a 1.4-1.6ohm(depending on how tight I can get the wraps on the tool)spaced 28/32 clapton into a subtank RBA for my wife, thats 5 wraps on 3mmID tool. Some days the wraps just go nice and other days its springy and big hassle to work with and I don't know why. I have to build her kanthal builds, all she knows about vaping is to push the button to make the vapor work and hand me a spent coil. I lock her settings so there is no accidents. Removing some of the clapton wraps where the set screws are make it a lot easier to set the build. I didn't know the hitter just registers the core wire and doesn't register the clapton wraps until just recently working with SS wire and it kept kicking me out of TC mode. Removing the wraps also helps give a more precise reading being a solid connection without wraps getting in the way and/or moving around.

 

[tj99959]

Yeah I have noticed that also. I'm trying different wattages in power with 26 usually takes a couple of hits for it to really get going with my DNA's with the SX's they have 4 modes and can use Powerfull+ or Powerful which gives you a few seconds at 15% or 10% abouve setting which works well. The DNA's only have preheat in TC mode. Just tried 20w on my DNA with a .5ohm coil and works well problem being is battery life.

We constantly rob Peter to pay Paul when messing with Ohm's/Watt's laws. That's just the way it is.
The goal is to find the balance that fits your needs.

My personal choice is thin wire, low watts, and long battery life.

 

[Alter]

I stopped using the thinner wire(30 and 32 gauge) once I got out of the protanks, I tried 28 in a protank and its a bit thick to make a comfortable build and even with the kayfuns the thin wire doesn't last for as many rewickings as the 28 and lower. I found the thin wire became weak and distort easily the older it got especially with rayon that has to be stuffed into the coil. I use the 32 for clapton wraps now but soon to be put away replaced with the 34 gauge I have on order.
Its frustrating with older getting tired batts trying to vape a lower ohm coil with a single battery hitter and you barely sit down and the hitter shuts off from lack of power. I miss the battery coops and soon have to make a vendor purchase of batts.

 

[tj99959]

I stopped using the thinner wire(30 and 32 gauge) once I got out of the protanks, I tried 28 in a protank and its a bit thick to make a comfortable build and even with the kayfuns the thin wire doesn't last for as many rewickings as the 28 and lower. I found the thin wire became weak and distort easily the older it got especially with rayon that has to be stuffed into the coil. I use the 32 for clapton wraps now but soon to be put away replaced with the 34 gauge I have on order.
Its frustrating with older getting tired batts trying to vape a lower ohm coil with a single battery hitter and you barely sit down and the hitter shuts off from lack of power. I miss the battery coops and soon have to make a vendor purchase of batts.

There's a trick to that
Wrap thin wire around silica wicks & you don't ever need to rewick.

 

[Zen Knitter]

There's a trick to that
Wrap thin wire around silica wicks & you don't ever need to rewick.

Any chance you could do a pictorial for us?

 

[Alter]

ROFL...Silica! I still got miles of silica and ekowool thinking they were the only material at the time. I had just begun rebuilding so had to have lots on hand. Cotton and now rayon put silica almost out of existence, only a few diehards still use silica as wicking. I think there is still a few black and white videos out there of someone wicking with silica.

 

[tj99959]

Any chance you could do a pictorial for us?

@#$% Photobuck!!!!! At least I managed to get three of them

 

[tj99959]

only a few diehards still use silica as wicking.

Ya, I imagine so.

Only one problem ....... IT WORKS
And, IMO, better than anything else.

 

[Alter]

Ya, I imagine so.

Only one problem ....... IT WORKS
And, IMO, better than anything else.

I can't remember how well it worked. I just remember feeding a pin through the ekowool then trying to wrap a consistent coil and put it into the CE4 clearo...wow that was way too many beer ago. I did rebuild a few protanks with both ekowool and silica but once I heard about cotton, took that qtip swab and fed it into a protank I was sold on the first vape, almost roll the eyes back. I just didn't like the only a few days you got out of the cotton before I had to rewick, that was back before my DIY and bought juice. Hemp fiber I used until rayon came into the scene and now its only rayon wick for me. It still floors me to clean a massively cocooned coil, pull the rayon out and its still white with just a hint of tinge to it.

 

[Zen Knitter]

@#$% Photobuck!!!!! At least I managed to get three of them

Thank you for posting the pics! Now a question, do you leave the silicon long and wrap each strand within the juice wells. I had seen a video a long time ago and the gentleman left the tails and called it a navy nest. Am I explaining that correctly?

 

[tj99959]

Thank you for posting the pics! Now a question, do you leave the silicon long and wrap each strand within the juice wells. I had seen a video a long time ago and the gentleman left the tails and called it a navy nest. Am I explaining that correctly?

Silica & silicon are two very different things!
I really don't think it makes much difference. I suppose it would depend on the RDA you were using. That's an A7 in the pic, and a "navy nest" would just restrict the airflow more.
So yes, I trim the silica to the length I want.

Really all it amounts to is that with big wire .... cotton is easier. With small wire ... silica is easier.

 

[DavidOck]

I used to use 32 for my Kanger singles. Fit well for the resistance I wanted, fast heat and cool

Use 30 kanthal for my KFs. Yes, they don't last as long since, yes, they can get deformed with rayon. But I prefer the faster heat/cool action of 30 to even 28...

 

[Kenna]

I stuff a 1.4-1.6ohm(depending on how tight I can get the wraps on the tool)spaced 28/32 clapton into a subtank RBA for my wife, thats 5 wraps on 3mmID tool. Some days the wraps just go nice and other days its springy and big hassle to work with and I don't know why. I have to build her kanthal builds, all she knows about vaping is to push the button to make the vapor work and hand me a spent coil. I lock her settings so there is no accidents. Removing some of the clapton wraps where the set screws are make it a lot easier to set the build. I didn't know the hitter just registers the core wire and doesn't register the clapton wraps until just recently working with SS wire and it kept kicking me out of TC mode. Removing the wraps also helps give a more precise reading being a solid connection without wraps getting in the way and/or moving around.

I tried 30g kanthal but it gets too hot, too fast for me. I haven't tried anything beyond 28g SS & Kanthal wire. I'm happy with it & not interested in buying another roll of wire just to try it.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk

 

[garyoa1]

A lot of us are happy where we're at and experimentation iz pretty mutch over.