Older Folks and Vaping Front Porch - Part 5

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pwmeek

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I had mods (joyetech eVics) that made scratches (actually circular grooves) in the base (negative end) of batteries. It was the spring, which had a sharp end sticking up. I just curled the sharp end down a tiny bit, and no more scratches. You might want to investigate what is causing the scratches and see if it can be fixed.

In my eFest LUC V4 charger I set the base of the battery against the moveable part and push it back (with the battery) and slide the positive end down against the fixed terminal. I lift the positive end away to remove the battery. Even if there was a sharp edge on the negative terminal, it never slides against the base of the battery, so it doesn't scratch.
 

DaveP

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I had mods (Joyetech eVics) that made scratches (actually circular grooves) in the base (negative end) of batteries. It was the spring, which had a sharp end sticking up. I just curled the sharp end down a tiny bit, and no more scratches. You might want to investigate what is causing the scratches and see if it can be fixed.

In my eFest LUC V4 charger I set the base of the battery against the moveable part and push it back (with the battery) and slide the positive end down against the fixed terminal. I lift the positive end away to remove the battery. Even if there was a sharp edge on the negative terminal, it never slides against the base of the battery, so it doesn't scratch.

I'm constantly walking over to my LUC 4 and checking progress. When I rotate the cell the voltage rises a little from increased metal to metal contact. I've thought about smearing a film of De-Oxit on the charger contacts to prevent oxidation and minimize contact resistance.

When I insert cells I put the negative post against the bay contact and push back to compress the spring, then ease the cell into the positive as you described. To remove, I use a fingernail to slide the cell back and up. The negative contacts are rounded bumps, so there's not much to cut the wrap, but the positive has a bump with a small center hole for increased contact.
 
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DaveP

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I have a battery question that seems almost too silly for the battery forums. I know about not using a battery with a damaged skin, but what about scrapes at the negative end? I don't seem able to avoid these, both in and out of the charger and going in to the battery compartments on the Wismec Reuleaux RX75s that I'm switching over to. The scrapes are either on the flat negative surface or on the outside edge at the very 'shoulder' between the cylinder and the flat. I'm sure hoping I don't need to re-wrap for these, becauseit's almost every battery charge and change.

Negative end shouldn't be a problem. On the positive end the case of the battery is covered by the wrap. If the positive end wrap is cracked and/or peeled back there's a chance that positive and negative could be shorted by metal contact across the two in a mod or charger. The positive end is where the fireworks can occur.
 

amoret

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Now, to be absolutely safe, if the charger is your issue, get a new one. If it's a matter of 'handling', be more careful.

My ol' Nitecore was not the most kind on my 18650s...

Minor scratches on the metal end of a battery I don't see any concern, but if the wrapping is in any way damaged, that should be rectified immediately.

What dey said ... yep

You might want to investigate what is causing the scratches and see if it can be fixed.

In my eFest LUC V4 charger I set the base of the battery against the moveable part and push it back (with the battery) and slide the positive end down against the fixed terminal. I lift the positive end away to remove the battery. Even if there was a sharp edge on the negative terminal, it never slides against the base of the battery, so it doesn't scratch.

I'm constantly walking over to my LUC 4 and checking progress. When I rotate the cell the voltage rises a little from increased metal to metal contact. I've thought about smearing a film of De-Oxit on the charger contacts to prevent oxidation and minimize contact resistance.

When I insert cells I put the negative post against the bay contact and push back to compress the spring, then ease the cell into the positive as you described. To remove, I use a fingernail to slide the cell back and up. The negative contacts are rounded bumps, so there's not much to cut the wrap, but the positive has a bump with a small center hole for increased contact.

Negative end shouldn't be a problem. On the positive end the case of the battery is covered by the wrap. If the positive end wrap is cracked and/or peeled back there's a chance that positive and negative could be shorted by metal contact across the two in a mod or charger. The positive end is where the fireworks can occur.

Thanks guys. I've been using a USB Xtar Vc2 that's convent since it runs from my charging hub right next to me. It does have sort of rounded edges on the negative sliding part, but is really stiff for me to slide down. I got a new Nitecore i4 that has more rounded edges, and slides more easily, but it runs on house current and I can't get to the outlet (a power bar*) myself, and when my daughter was last here she didn't have time** to do everything on my list and the charger was down on the list since I do have the 2 slot USB one working.

The Wismec RX75s have a battery slot with the positive connection button spring loaded that is a little hard for me to get in and out. I also have a Wismec Sinuous 80 with a bottom loading tube that's way easier*** for me to use - drop the battery in and close up the door. It also has the squeeze to fire design that works so well for me, but the shape doesn't work as well as the RX75s' do and it cost more. I bought it just because I'd accidentally bought a tank that didn't fit in the limited space on the Reuleaux 75s, so I had to buy a new mod, right?

* Some genius designed a power bar that has a remote switch for 2 outlets - so you can use it in a spot that's really hard to get at - that has to be reset on the bar every time there's a power blip, like weekly here. I can poke at the tiny, recessed reset button with the handle end of my grabber, but I can't plug anything new there.

** Speaking of power outages, she had to spend way more time than usual at her place (our old farmstead that had the fire) thanks to a storm with 98 mph straight-line winds that took out 3 big trees she had to saw up and drag away from the driveway after the power company came to disentangle the electrical wires.

*** easier after I figured out how to open it instead of just diddling around until it opened.
 
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DavidOck

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The Wismec RX75s have a battery slot with the positive connection button spring loaded that is a little hard for me to get in and out.

I press the positive end of the battery down and then swing the neg end in. If you're trying to move the spring by rocking the positive end in, yep, no fun!
 

englishmick

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I have a battery question that seems almost too silly for the battery forums. I know about not using a battery with a damaged skin, but what about scrapes at the negative end? I don't seem able to avoid these, both in and out of the charger and going in to the battery compartments on the Wismec Reuleaux RX75s that I'm switching over to. The scrapes are either on the flat negative surface or on the outside edge at the very 'shoulder' between the cylinder and the flat. I'm sure hoping I don't need to re-wrap for these, becauseit's almost every battery charge and change.

I've had a couple recently where the wrap was cut right on the shoulder at the negative end. No idea what's causing it. I couldn't think of any situation where that could cause a problem, but I rewrapped them anyway. Scratches on the end I wouldn't worry about.
 

2legsshrt

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Yep I have one of the first Lost Vapes Therions DNA75 it chewed up about 3 batteries before it got broken in enough not to do it after about 6 months of use. I even worked the battery springs in and out 100 times each and still chewed them up, bad design which they have since remedied.
 
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gadgetkeith

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The worst mod i have for batt damage is a wismec reuleaux DNA 200 had then silly ridges around the poss connection and they would tare up batt sleves with ease so i just got out a craft knife to trim them off and hey presto batts go in and out with ease now ,they only did it so you cant put batts in wrong way around as dna chip doesnt have reverse polarity protection . and would blow the fuse on the board . just pay attention to poss and neg and you good .

They just did it to make it idiot proof .

so sssssshhhhhhhhh dont tell the idiots .
 

Diver9543

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Some days I hate my life of vaping. Recently, I switched over to vaping solely Unflavored ejuice 60/40 PG/VG 5 mg/ml. Well a couple of days ago I decided to clean one of my Kayfuns. I cleaned it and reassembled it and set it aside. I decided on Monday to fire it up while I cleaned my other Kayfun. I made sure it was set right and took a nice hit. Nothing. I checked it and the ohms were right as well as the temp tried it again and still nothing. It was firing and all but I was getting no vapor. Frustrated, I sat it aside to look into it when I wasn't feeling rushed. Yesterday, I decided to see what the problem was. I couldn't see anything wrong. Again, checking the temp was right, Ohms also. The battery was fully charged and plenty of juice and the juice flow set right as well air flow. I decided to tear it open and find out what was wrong. Yeap, I had done everything correct the coil was cleaned and the "what the heck"??? After putting in some KJD it works just fine...:facepalm:
 

3mg Meniere

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Yeap, I had done everything correct the coil was cleaned and the "what the heck"??? After putting in some KJD it works just fine...:facepalm:
I already guessed the punchline. I am just about ready to go into maintenance mode for my Kayfuns.
 

Kenna

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I already guessed the punchline. I am just about ready to go into maintenance mode for my Kayfuns.
I did a couple yesterday. I have 5 set up & teady to go. When I get a couple that have been used, I get them done & ready to go again. That way if something is going on & I can't get to it I'm not in a bind.

Sent from my LG-V700 using Tapatalk
 

2legsshrt

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Man I just dry burned 2 of my Sirens, they were so gunked up you couldn't even tell there was a coil there. Gotta do the other 2 tomorrow.

I had a question for you guys and gals do you think thinner wire gunks up less then thicker. I am using 26awg Kanthal in a 6/7 wrap 3mm spaced coil, I have 27,28,29,30 guages of Kanthal. I know that Mike always uses 29 but anyone have an idea if the thickness of Kanthal makes a difference in gunkability, is that a word? The 26 comes in at 1ohm. I've been thinking of going to TC on 3 of them with 26 SS316L and keep the Kanthal on the Custard which is the one that gunks the fastest. I do like the smoothness of TC better but I don't like to dry burn my SS, once is ok but any more and it just seems to loose it's quality for TC, don't know if it heats up at a different resistance or what causes it to be able to use the same temps and get the same flavor. Maybe it's just me.

Speaking of Temps just got a news blip that for the 2nd year in a row Death Valley recorded the hottest months in the world with an average temp of 107.4 thats including the lows at 5am of 95 avg. The hottest days were July 7th@128 July 8th@127 and July 31st@126. The hottest temp ever recorded on earth actually happened in 1913 in the same place of 134. Now that's cooking.
 

DavidOck

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I had a question for you guys and gals do you think thinner wire gunks up less then thicker.

Not sure about that, Pat. IF the longer cool-down time of the thicker gauge wire "bakes" more gunk onto the coil, then it would seem so.

I don't care for the ramp up / down time that goes with the heavier wire, and build with 30, liking the quick response (although those vaping at higher power than this mere tootler may not have that issue ;) ).

Gunkabiity is now an official word! :thumbs:
 

2legsshrt

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Yeah way back when I used to use 28 all the time mainly because of the small build area on the older attys but with the Sirens there is enough room to use 26 or even thicker and it's no problem. The Kayfun Primes have a small build deck also but 26 with a 2.5mm coil works fine in those. The ramp up if you are using TC is pretty much non existent but it is slower with Power mode gotta take like primer puffs to get it to vaping temp.
 

2legsshrt

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Well I done did it. Pulled another Siren apart and this one has the Peach flavor in it and it wasn't that gunky like the Custard and the Blueberry so I slapped a TC coil in it. Came out at .5 ohms and is vaping great. I really like TC better by far but the Custard just needs to be changed so often I went with the Kanthal but this is working great on my DNA133. These Sirens are rock solid on TC also. I just may try it on the other 3 and knowing I have to clean up the Custard one more often. I love the flavor with TC might be worth it. Oh and no more Ramp up on this one.
 
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Belhade

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Well this is interesting. These have got to be the fanciest batteries and packaging I've ever seen; don't even remember getting them. Found them in a box of old random boxes and packing that I stashed in a back corner of the dining room when we cleaned out house last year, and the cats knocked it over.

20180803_200152-612x816.jpg
 

2legsshrt

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Well this is interesting. These have got to be the fanciest batteries and packaging I've ever seen; don't even remember getting them. Found them in a box of old random boxes and packing that I stashed in a back corner of the dining room when we cleaned out house last year, and the cats knocked it over.

View attachment 758549
Gee those are kinda purdy. Isn't it amazing what you find when you start cleaning stuff out. I found a brand new package of cartomizers for the old carto tanks, these were the good one with 3 pinhead style holes in them. I filed them in the circular file. I still gotta get a bunch of stuff mailed off. I've got the boxes just need to address them but it was all I could do to make my honey bunny breakfast and lunch. I'm not used to having to go 3 days in a row and once I deliver her then gotta go shopping. At least tho I get stuff done while she is getting pumped full of poison that way the Friday I can kinda just kick back for a day. Will get stuff done tomorrow need to get packages mailed on Monday. Found a bunch of old atomizers I think they were called that you dropped juice on and put the long mouthpieces on I think that is how they worked. Pretty bad when you can't even remember how you used them. They look like maybe about a 25 caliber shell casing with cotton in them. Those were the days. Can't believe some of the ways we found to vape back then. No wonder I still smoked also. Geez that was over 9 years ago when I first started then found this place shortly thereafter. I had one of the old mini Provari's that didn't have variable power. I sold that to a guy that used to come here alot. Wonder how hes doin. I know some of the gals kept in touch with him but I forget his name now. Some of you old timers know who I mean, he had a cat which was pretty much his family.
 
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