Older Folks and Vaping Front Porch - Part Three

[MattB101]

Just found this little tear on one of my batteries. I think it probably happened when I was taking it out of the charger & the spring that holds it in slipped. I didn't notice it until I'd used it & taken it out of the Hana. I put a piece of tape over it to keep it from getting worse. It doesn't look like the battery is even scratched. Should I toss it, or is it ok to keep using?

If you can post a pic to be sure but, I would say keep using it. Just the wrapping (plastic/paper) part got torn, correct?

Sent with no malice and not a whole lot of forethought from my new Galaxy Tab 4. Thanks Santa!

 

[MattB101]

Matt unless they have seriously changed the quality of things I can tell you the experience I have had with my 2 Kafun Lite clones from fasttech. They work beautifully BUT I had to hunt down a replacement screw set for them as the screws it shipped with rusted.

I used a replacement screw for the fill hole that came from one of the rebuild kits I got from Fat Daddy Vapes and it's magnetic. Not rusting but, is it really stainless and if so what grade?

Sent with no malice and not a whole lot of forethought from my new Galaxy Tab 4. Thanks Santa!

 

[MattB101]

I am hoping Iffy chimes in with what to get and where to get it like he did a year ago. I have had that happen a couple of times and iffy pointed me to this tube stuff that you can rewrap batteries with. It is super easy to do and works beautifully. unfortunately I am clueless where I ordered it from or what it is called as I tossed the packaging.

My AW IMRs seem to be REALLY prone to tears like that. The panasonics not so much.

Fasttech has them but it'll take a while to get them. Battery is probably fine with a piece of electrical tape.

Sent with no malice and not a whole lot of forethought from my new Galaxy Tab 4. Thanks Santa!

 

[MattB101]

I am hoping Iffy chimes in with what to get and where to get it like he did a year ago. I have had that happen a couple of times and iffy pointed me to this tube stuff that you can rewrap batteries with. It is super easy to do and works beautifully. unfortunately I am clueless where I ordered it from or what it is called as I tossed the packaging.

My AW IMRs seem to be REALLY prone to tears like that. The panasonics not so much.

AW's wrapping is a little thin while the panny battery is virtually untearable.

Sent with no malice and not a whole lot of forethought from my new Galaxy Tab 4. Thanks Santa!

 

[MattB101]

A piece of electrical tape will work fine for a while, but you should really repair the battery correctly as soon as is practical.

I'm not Iffy, but this is what you want: 18650 shrink wrap tubing. You can get it in the states more quickly, of course, but now you know what to look for. Basically, remove the old wrapper, cut a piece of shrink wrap tubing that's 3mm or so longer than your battery on either side, center the battery, and hit it with a blow dryer on high. The PVC shrinks tightly around the battery.

I have plenty of extra, so if you private message me your mailing address, I can put some in an envelop and send it to you, if you want.

Perfect solution. I have some shrink wrap tubing that would work too and I didn't even think of it, getting slow in my old age!

Sent with no malice and not a whole lot of forethought from my new Galaxy Tab 4. Thanks Santa!

 

[Kenna]

A piece of electrical tape will work fine for a while, but you should really repair the battery correctly as soon as is practical.

I'm not Iffy, but this is what you want: 18650 shrink wrap tubing. You can get it in the states more quickly, of course, but now you know what to look for. Basically, remove the old wrapper, cut a piece of shrink wrap tubing that's 3mm or so longer than your battery on either side, center the battery, and hit it with a blow dryer on high. The PVC shrinks tightly around the battery.

I have plenty of extra, so if you private message me your mailing address, I can put some in an envelop and send it to you, if you want.

Thanks, Papa! Pming info to you!

 

[Kenna]

Here's sort of a visual aid/tutorial for you http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/tutorials/485582-tutorial-re-wrapping-battery.html

Thanks, Tutu. That is getting read & bookmarked!

 

[Wolfenstark]

Watched a video of this guy Vaping twisted on the vapor shark dna40.

Had to sigh and roll the eyes when he sets it at 600F. At this point seems like people chasing their tails having things set to their max.
30w mod I'll set it at 30 , 100w mod i'll set it to 100 and so on.
The VG apparently turns to that nasty stuff at around 550F.

Doesn't look appealing atm , apparently very soft wire difficult to use and seems to take 500 wraps for anything over 0.2Ω.
Possibly useful in those prebuilt temp coils that have come out , for people who like the tanks they go in.

 

[Wolfenstark]

What mods are people using or squishy batteries that cause tears ?

re-look sharp charger.

 

[Kenna]

I got a pre-made custard liquid that now is too strong and used it as a base.
One I added vg ,danish pastry , apricot, sweetner. The other vg ,donut , sweet raspberry, vanilla swirl.

Those sound great! I use my old, higher nic juices to mix with some of my newer juices to change up the flavors some. Helps with vapers tongue.

 

[DavidOck]

Well, Wolf, there are those who like a warm vape, but yeah, 600?? Might as well smoke!

I suppose those are the same folk who see the tachometer on their dash board goes to 8000 RPM, so have to run the engine that fast - and wonder why it breaks...

 

[Kenna]

Not always true, Gary. In some (many?) mechs, if the side of the battery contacts the tube itself, you have a dead short. Not good, not at all good...

While the shrink wrap is the best solution, I usually use a piece of box / shipping tape - thick vinyl. And Kenna, I'd bet you're right on the slider on the charger being the culprit!

I only have MVP's & a Hana. Iam thinking about a mech or 2 for vapocolypse purposes.

 

[MattB101]

Watched a video of this guy Vaping twisted on the vapor shark dna40.

Had to sigh and roll the eyes when he sets it at 600F. At this point seems like people chasing their tails having things set to their max.
30w mod I'll set it at 30 , 100w mod i'll set it to 100 and so on.
The VG apparently turns to that nasty stuff at around 550F.

Doesn't look appealing atm , apparently very soft wire difficult to use and seems to take 500 wraps for anything over 0.2Ω.
Possibly useful in those prebuilt temp coils that have come out , for people who like the tanks they go in.

I understand that 0.2 is right where you want it to be. I am in the process of building a DNA40 device (if I ever get back to it) and it will handle regular kanthal just fine and give me the option of trying temp control.

Sent with no malice and not a whole lot of forethought from my new Galaxy Tab 4. Thanks Santa!

 

[DavidOck]

Not a bad idea, Kenna. Many of us have done just that. I have 3 full mechs, and a Kick for each since I prefer vaping "regulated". But even in the event that I have to rely on those, if the Kicks die the mech is still fully functional.

And they don't have to be the high end "name" mechs, with the high prices. Heck, one no-name I got for $15, a little telescope with a bottom switch. Springs won't ever be outlawed Same with lithium batteries, won't be banned...

 

[DavidOck]

What mods are people using or squishy batteries that cause tears ?

re-look sharp charger.

Not the mods, Wolf, the charger.

Some have pretty strong springs on the sliding contact, and they can snap back when you remove the battery. While sharp edges there would make it more likely, since it's the edge of the slide even if chamfered it could still cause damage.

 

[bigbells]

I used a replacement screw for the fill hole that came from one of the rebuild kits I got from Fat Daddy Vapes and it's magnetic. Not rusting but, is it really stainless and if so what grade?

According to this good, in-depth article, https://www.fastenal.com/web/en/75/magnetism-in-stainless-steel-fasteners, the cold working that's involved in the manufacture of a stainless steel screw makes it magnetic.

 

[PapaSloth]

I used a replacement screw for the fill hole that came from one of the rebuild kits I got from Fat Daddy Vapes and it's magnetic. Not rusting but, is it really stainless and if so what grade?

Sent with no malice and not a whole lot of forethought from my new Galaxy Tab 4. Thanks Santa!

Summary: 300 series steels are generally non-magnetic while 400 series steels are generally magnetic. Both are grades of stainless steel. SS atties are generally 300 grade.

More technical: Austenitic steels are non-magnetic, while ferritic and martensitic steels are magnetic. Generally, 300 series steels (304 and 316 are most common) are austentic while 400 series steels are martensitic.

Ever more technical:

300 Series austenitic stainless steel has austenite as its primary phase (face centered cubic crystal). These are alloys containing chromium and nickel, and sometimes molybdenum and nitrogen, structured around the Type 302 composition of iron, 18% chromium, and 8% nickel. 200 Series austenitic stainless steels replace the majority of their nickel content with manganese to reduce cost. Austenitic steels are not hardenable by heat treatment. The most familiar stainless steel is probably SAE 304 stainless steel, also called 18/8 or A2 stainless steel. Type 304 surgical stainless steel is an austenitic steel containing 18-20% chromium and 8-10% nickel.

Alloy 20 (Carpenter 20) is an austenitic stainless steel possessing excellent resistance to hot sulfuric acid and many other aggressive enviornments which would readily attack type 316 stainless.This alloy exhibits superior resistance to stress-corrosion cracking in boiling 20-40% sulfuric acid. Alloy 20 has excellent mechanical properties and the presence of columbium in the alloy minimizes the precipitation of carbides during welding.(Joe Musillo-Totowa, NJ)

Austenitic stainless steel can be tested by nondestructive testing using the dye penetrant inspection method but not the magnetic particle inspection method. Eddy-current testing may also be used. It is the primary stainless steel used in aviation construction. Chemical and steel industry-applicable grades are SAE steel grades 308, 308L, 316, 316L, 316LN (nitrogen bearing), 312, 309L, and 310L. "L" denotes a carbon percentage less than 0.03%, mostly used for corrosion heat resistance and reducing sensitivity to chromium carbide formation. Another grade, 312, is used for dissimilar steel welding, also known as universal alloy steel as unknown composition steels can be welded. For high temperature applications at greater than 600°C, grades 309 and 310 are preferred. Grade 316 is alloyed with molybdenum (~2-3%) for high temperature strength, pitting and crevice corrosion resistance.

 

[PapaSloth]

Watched a video of this guy Vaping twisted on the vapor shark dna40.

Had to sigh and roll the eyes when he sets it at 600F.

 

[PapaSloth]

Not the mods, Wolf, the charger.

Some have pretty strong springs on the sliding contact, and they can snap back when you remove the battery. While sharp edges there would make it more likely, since it's the edge of the slide even if chamfered it could still cause damage.

I agree, I have sometimes nicked the wrappers on both my 26650s and 18650s, and have heat shrink tubing for both sizes.

 

[Wolfenstark]

I understand that 0.2 is right where you want it to be. I am in the process of building a DNA40 device (if I ever get back to it) and it will handle regular kanthal just fine and give me the option of trying temp control.

Sent with no malice and not a whole lot of forethought from my new Galaxy Tab 4. Thanks Santa!

Do the people who made the current ones that require nickel wire know that you can make one for kanthal wire ?