that "KICK" is pretty cool, so does that make an unregulated mech a lil'safer?
that "KICK" is pretty cool, so does that make an unregulated mech a lil'safer?
Here is another place that sells the stuff. Papa's got you covered, but in case anyone else needs it.
Batteries, Chargers, and PowerPax Carriers
And here is a link to the Evolv website where you can get the real McCoy. They have lowered the price considerably. Scroll down about 3/4 of the way down and you'll find them.
Evolv LLC - Shop Now
Sent with no malice and not a whole lot of forethought from my new Galaxy Tab 4. Thanks Santa!
I was reading a comment on a guy who rebuilt his own Kanger subtank OCC head with NI200 and he said it works perfectly. Not sure about the the specifics but he said it was really easy to do.
Yes-- it makes it safer. I think a fuse is built into the kick module. You won't have the Ω or volt reading that you will have with a VW mod. I am thinking of buying this $18.89 Nemesis Style Mechanical Mod - stainless steel / with telescopic 510 contact pin at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping with a kick. It has a good and well-established track record. Just wondering if I could get anything cheaper. This $16.47 Origin Style Mechanical Mod - adjustable throw / w/ kick tube at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
I hold the charger in one hand and use the fingernail of the index finger of my other hand to push the positive end away from the contact, maintaining the spring pressure. Then I ease the positive end out of the charger, lifting it just enough to clear the top of the charger as I slowly release the pressure against the spring.Unfortunately with my arthritis I can't always do that.![]()
Just really thinking about la Vamitresse. She is a hard worker, but I need to take some of the stress off of her.I've got a couple Hcigar Nemy clones and a 'real' Nemisis. The Hcigars are pretty dang good compared to the real deal for a whole lot less $$$s. Don't know who makes the FT clones.
I agree, I have sometimes nicked the wrappers on both my 26650s and 18650s, and have heat shrink tubing for both sizes.
It is not the mods that are tearing mine it is the charger. Nitecore i4 has some stiff springs in the bays that can tear the casing on batteries without trying.
I try to hold the springs down to the bottom of the slot when I take them in and out. Sometimes it slips but not often. I have caught the battery wrap on the edge of the battery tube of my VAMOs sometimes. As the bottom of the tube is threaded the edge can be kind of sharp.
Sent with no malice and not a whole lot of forethought from my new Galaxy Tab 4. Thanks Santa!
Yep! Mine is an i2.
Unfortunately with my arthritis I can't always do that.![]()
True, when using kanthal it reverts to regular operation just like any other mod. One of the good things about the 40 vs the DNA 30 is that it has step down capability where the 30 doesn't.
Sent with no malice and not a whole lot of forethought from my new Galaxy Tab 4. Thanks Santa!
for my charger, I pull the battery back - lever it up and let it slowly come forward. No nicks as of yet, but you know how Murphy works!
Yes-- it makes it safer. I think a fuse is built into the kick module. You won't have the Ω or volt reading that you will have with a VW mod. I am thinking of buying this $18.89 Nemesis Style Mechanical Mod - stainless steel / with telescopic 510 contact pin at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping with a kick. It has a good and well-established track record. Just wondering if I could get anything cheaper. This $16.47 Origin Style Mechanical Mod - adjustable throw / w/ kick tube at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
I hold the charger in one hand and use the fingernail of the index finger of my other hand to push the positive end away from the contact, maintaining the spring pressure. Then I ease the positive end out of the charger, lifting it just enough to clear the top of the charger as I slowly release the pressure against the spring.
ETA: I hadn't read Ken A's post yet, and he does it basically the same way I do.
I always hold them, but I remember it slipping once, so that's probably what did it.