P4U/ IPV3 150w Owners Discussion / A Place to Discuss Concerns and Performance of the IPV3

[dcannon1]

Having the loose connection problem on my IPV3 as well. I think I'm just going to sell it at a heavy discount to someone who wants to tinker with it rather than dealing with the warranty process. The actual connection to the board still seems good (it still correctly reads the resistance, fires, etc), it's just the process they are using to attach the connection to the body seems to be the issue. I can push it back in there and it kind of snaps in place, but then any pressure, such as unscrewing device, will cause it to pop back out.

Kind of sucks, I really liked everything about the device prior to this happening.

 

[Fictitious Character]

Having the loose connection problem on my IPV3 as well. I think I'm just going to sell it at a heavy discount to someone who wants to tinker with it rather than dealing with the warranty process. The actual connection to the board still seems good (it still correctly reads the resistance, fires, etc), it's just the process they are using to attach the connection to the body seems to be the issue. I can push it back in there and it kind of snaps in place, but then any pressure, such as unscrewing device, will cause it to pop back out.

Kind of sucks, I really liked everything about the device prior to this happening.

Yeah that sucks. Luckily my pre-order version has never experienced such crap.

 

[dcannon1]

Yeah that sucks. Luckily my pre-order version has never experienced such crap.

Trying to fix it with some JB Weld epoxy. Gonna give it 24 hours and see if that does anything for it.

 

[skale240]

Having the loose connection problem on my IPV3 as well. I think I'm just going to sell it at a heavy discount to someone who wants to tinker with it rather than dealing with the warranty process. The actual connection to the board still seems good (it still correctly reads the resistance, fires, etc), it's just the process they are using to attach the connection to the body seems to be the issue. I can push it back in there and it kind of snaps in place, but then any pressure, such as unscrewing device, will cause it to pop back out.

Kind of sucks, I really liked everything about the device prior to this happening.

Hey whats up. Bummer to see you have the same thing happen. I didn't call for warranty as I'm going to just fix it myself. I ordered a threaded low profile 510 connector from varitube.com and am going to thread the IPV3 body once I find a tap.

 

[MattB101]

Hey whats up. Bummer to see you have the same thing happen. I didn't call for warranty as I'm going to just fix it myself. I ordered a threaded low profile 510 connector from varitube.com and am going to thread the IPV3 body once I find a tap.

Skale, Do you have yours apart? If so can you post a couple of pics so we all can see what the guts look like? I afraid we all may end up having to do a repair job eventually. I love the device and my 510 has remained fine but, who know what the future will bring. I really do like the FDV 510s as well as the Varitube ones.

Sent with no malice and not a whole lot of forethought from my new Galaxy Tab 4. Thanks Santa!

 

[dcannon1]

Trying to fix it with some JB Weld epoxy. Gonna give it 24 hours and see if that does anything for it.

JB Weld fix seems to be working well. Screwed on both my Atlantis and Mutation X, pulled on them, unscrewed them, vaped them, etc.

No weirdness with ohm readings/output as far as I can tell and the connection seems to be pretty darn solid.

If yours pops out I'd recommend setting it down immediately so as not to pull anything loose on the connection. The JB Weld is available at any hardware store/big box store and comes in two tubes. I only needed a tiny amount around the part of the 510 connection that makes contact with the body to get it to hold solidly.

Once cured (15-24 hours) the epoxy is good up to 500-600 degrees F so it should be able to handle any ambient heat coming from the connection, even on hot builds.

 

[HDMontana]

Glad you got it fixed. I really like my IPV3. Haven't used out though, since getting my Cloupor mini 30 and Sigelei mini 30. Just giving it a deserved rest.

HD

 

[skale240]

Skale, Do you have yours apart? If so can you post a couple of pics so we all can see what the guts look like? I afraid we all may end up having to do a repair job eventually. I love the device and my 510 has remained fine but, who know what the future will bring. I really do like the FDV 510s as well as the Varitube ones.

Sent with no malice and not a whole lot of forethought from my new Galaxy Tab 4. Thanks Santa!

I haven't taken it completely apart yet but when I do I'll post the pics.

 

[Fictitious Character]

JB Weld fix seems to be working well. Screwed on both my Atlantis and Mutation X, pulled on them, unscrewed them, vaped them, etc.

No weirdness with ohm readings/output as far as I can tell and the connection seems to be pretty darn solid.

If yours pops out I'd recommend setting it down immediately so as not to pull anything loose on the connection. The JB Weld is available at any hardware store/big box store and comes in two tubes. I only needed a tiny amount around the part of the 510 connection that makes contact with the body to get it to hold solidly.

Once cured (15-24 hours) the epoxy is good up to 500-600 degrees F so it should be able to handle any ambient heat coming from the connection, even on hot builds.

Glad you came up with a fix, hope it holds up.

 

[skale240]

All my parts came in today so the fun began:

I ended up buying the FDV 510 connector because he had the taps in stock. Unfortunately, varitube.com sold out of taps and I couldn't find a store that had the size tap required.

Here are the guts of the IPV3:



I cut the existing 510 connector off and tapped the hole:





Next I soldered the FDV 510 pin to the wire:



Here it is all put back together:







I liked the look of the 22mm 510 over the 15.5mm since it made it flush with the atty:



So far it's running perfect. No wobble on the atty and no voltage jumps! I hope this helps anyone in the future that happens to run into the problem I had.

 

[Fictitious Character]

Nice job on the tap and thanks for the internal pics.

 

[MattB101]

All my parts came in today so the fun began:

I ended up buying the FDV 510 connector because he had the taps in stock. Unfortunately, varitube.com sold out of taps and I couldn't find a store that had the size tap required.

Here are the guts of the IPV3:



I cut the existing 510 connector off and tapped the hole:





Next I soldered the FDV 510 pin to the wire:



Here it is all put back together:







I liked the look of the 22mm 510 over the 15.5mm since it made it flush with the atty:



So far it's running perfect. No wobble on the atty and no voltage jumps! I hope this helps anyone in the future that happens to run into the problem I had.

Nice job. I have a spare FDV 510 so I'm ready should mine crap out. Nice job on the pics. Did you happen to look and see who made the board while you were in there? Be nice to know.

Sent with no malice and not a whole lot of forethought from my new Galaxy Tab 4. Thanks Santa!

 

[skale240]

Nice job. I have a spare FDV 510 so I'm ready should mine crap out. Nice job on the pics. Did you happen to look and see who made the board while you were in there? Be nice to know.

Sent with no malice and not a whole lot of forethought from my new Galaxy Tab 4. Thanks Santa!

Here is a pic of the board:

 

[CoilinTrouble]

God I hate the battery springs on my IPV3...

 

[MattB101]

Here is a pic of the board:

SX330 from YiHi. Great board and shouldn't give us any problems. The earlier 330 boards didn't have buck, they only had boost. The V3 added buck and several other features.

Sent with no malice and not a whole lot of forethought from my new Galaxy Tab 4. Thanks Santa!

 

[Fictitious Character]

God I hate the battery springs on my IPV3...

Yeah they can tear up some batt sleeves if you use the strap.

 

[Fictitious Character]

SX330 from YiHi. Great board and shouldn't give us any problems. The earlier 330 boards didn't have buck, they only had boost. The V3 added buck and several other features.

Sent with no malice and not a whole lot of forethought from my new Galaxy Tab 4. Thanks Santa!

If you hold the fire button down when you put in your batts it gives you the chip info on the screen.

 

[MattB101]

If you hold the fire button down when you put in your batts it gives you the chip info on the screen.

Cool. Learned another new thing. Thanks

Sent with no malice and not a whole lot of forethought from my new Galaxy Tab 4. Thanks Santa!

 

[killahz]

Where can I get a 510 that'll fit in here? My IPV3 is slightly different than yours (note: that's not a touch sensor board, and It's not even attached to the board. I think it's part of the other chip). I don't know if the nut from the FD 510 will fit in here.

 

[skale240]

Where can I get a 510 that'll fit in here? My IPV3 is slightly different than yours (note: that's not a touch sensor board, and It's not even attached to the board. I think it's part of the other chip). I don't know if the nut from the FD 510 will fit in here.
View attachment 415106 View attachment 415107 View attachment 415108

It does look like you'll have some clearance issues with nut. The varitube 510 is pretty much the same as the FDV one but with different threads. It kind of makes sense why they went with a press fitted 510 now as there probably wasn't enough space to put a threaded one in there with that second board. I wonder what that board is for then? My friend that I've mentioned about in earlier posts told me that his IPV also had that second board in there. He assumed it was the touch sensor and it just wasn't hooked up.

If you have a dial caliper you can measure the space where the 510 is at. I can measure how wide the FDV nut is as well and we can see if it will work.