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Here's some mesh builds I did on Sunday.
28awg at about 0.8 ohms
27awg at 0.63 ohms
27 awg at about 0.8 ohms
28awg at about 0.8 ohms
27awg at 0.63 ohms
27 awg at about 0.8 ohms
I think everybody should have this:
what is that big round thing and what does it do?
I think everybody should have this:
I have most of them. I would also suggest keeping the tap drills for each as well. Ive had to drill and tap some holes to larger sizes after they stripped a couple of times.
Of course I have all the drill bits for them, I just didn't photograph them.
Pretty standard but i took some time to prebend the coils to be where I wanted them.
24G @ 0.33ohms
7 wraps 2.5mm id
Turned out rather nice. Vapor is full of flavor and thick. I wish my cell cam would pick up test fires :/
Sent using these stoopid hooves..
24G @ 0.33ohms
7 wraps 2.5mm id
Turned out rather nice. Vapor is full of flavor and thick. I wish my cell cam would pick up test fires :/
Sent using these stoopid hooves..
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As the person who asked him because I had a reaction similar to yours, yes hand braided. Says that its even better at vapor and flavor than twisted because of the naturally occurring gaps created by the hand braiding. Do a thread search by poster and you should find his complete explanation to my question.
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Pretty standard but i took some time to prebend the coils to be where I wanted them.
24G @ 0.33ohms
7 wraps 2.5mm id
Turned out rather nice. Vapor is full of flavor and thick. I wish my cell cam would pick up test fires :/
Sent using these stoopid hooves..
Very neat indeed
My question is this: Why would you cut that lip off your Tobh and move the coil in the center? You don't want adjustable Airflow?
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I don't use the air control on this one. I find its perfect wide open. I left the tabs on my authentic tobh.Very neat indeed
My question is this: Why would you cut that lip off your Tobh and move the coil in the center? You don't want adjustable Airflow?
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have been thinking about taking the tabs off my BIG Tobh...
no use at all, not when that thing is running at less than 0.1ohm exclusively
no use at all, not when that thing is running at less than 0.1ohm exclusively
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My thoughts exactly. I have been running around 0.3 to 0.7 on this one so I just got rid of the tabs I will probably open the airholes a tad but will try and keep the three or slot it. I like how the air gets spread across the coil. I keep my authentic stock. Way too expensive to cut. That's usually running a 1.1 dual 32g micro for my provari.
In all I love the tobh. Its really not meant subohm which is why I'm thinking about getting a tugboat next.
Anyone have experience with the tugboat?
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I think everybody should have this:
Nice find.
"Repair" kit is somewhat misleading; once something is stripped, it's stripped, done, time for the trash.
I'm not too sure what the M1.6 - M3 taps are for anyways, I'm assuming ground screws (?). Butttt, I can see where if people do order Atty clones they might need all of those guys plus possibly more because their threads were not cut properly in the first place.
I do own a M7 x .5 (extra fine) adjustable die, it was made in the USA thank you very much. I've used it on a MMV DID atty, the V1 AC9 and a friends Trident and V1 In'ax. A word of caution though, especially w/o a die stock it can be very easy to cross thread a 510, permanently ruining it. Go slow and take small cuts. This will only work for oversized male (atty) threads, and the respective tap for undersized female (mod) threads.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/modding-forum/30256-taps-dies-901-801-510-4xx.html
^ Posted back in 09' hence the 901 & 801 thread call-outs.
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You've got almost everything right.
Except:
When M1.6 - 0.35 is stripped - you can re-thread it to M2.0-0.4 (replacing the screws of course)
When M2.0 - 0.40 is stripped - use M2.5 - 0.45 and so on...
Example:
This Fast Tech Helios had really bad M2.0 threads from the get go. I made them M2.5 and it became a usable dripper.
All my Tap & Dies are made by Drillco in Louisiana.
Edit: When you break M1.6 screw, you could drill 1.1mm right into it and re-thread it to the original M1.6
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That makes sense, I've just never stripped a thread on any of my gear.You've got almost everything right.
Except:
When M1.6 - 0.35 is stripped - you can re-thread it to M2.0-0.4 (replacing the screws of course)
When M2.0 - 0.40 is stripped - use M2.5 - 0.45 and so on...
Example:
This Fast Tech Helios had really bad M2.0 threads from the get go. I made them M2.5 and it became a usable dripper.
But I also buy authentic.
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