Maybe a little typo on my part.Why do you see that as a negative?
Every mech AIO I've seen has a ledge for the tank to sit on (like regulated AIO's). Each has some open space under that ledge. The only parts inside a mech AIO is the contact for the battery, the switch and an adjustment for the tank. That makes tear-down for maintenance/cleaning and reassembly very easy.
There's a gentleman over on VU who owns many mech AIO's. I've chatted with him and he's had zero problems/issues with his mech AIO's. No leaks. With a proper build, decent tank section and good o-rings there should not be any leaks.
Hmmm,since im new to RDA's i gotta ask both RDAs (Nitrous and Dead Rabbit) are made of Stainless Steel.
They both basically have the same ohms and i am using basically the same wattage,only difference is the size of the coil.
The Nitrous is a 2.5mm,Dead Rabbit a 3mm...and i am noticing the Dead Rabbit gets a lot hotter than the Nitrous.
Is that because the size of the coil,or perhaps just the design of the RDA?
Where'd you get it. I bought something similar thinking it would have everything I needed and it didn't have the hex drivers. It did have a bunch of bits that I will never use though.Morning shinies
Vapemail!
I got tired of my coil kit tools stripping deck screws. I've got a large 57in1 toolkit that I use on my electronics, but I wanted a smaller set that will fit in my coil kit. The one I chose below is perfect. It's double-sided and the other side has hex drivers 0.7mm and above, it slides into a metal case and the case is small enough to fit in my kit.
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Maybe a little typo on my part.
An AIO is to get as much as possible inside, and keep it as small as possible. Mostly it is the battery that sets the height, the boro tank is standardized in size, and then the normal thing has been to try to get the electronics under the tank. Practical solution.


Where'd you get it. I bought something similar thinking it would have everything I needed and it didn't have the hex drivers. It did have a bunch of bits that I will never use though.
A bit exotic.....with an exotic price:
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View attachment 995623
And no, my price limit is far below this !
Everything depends on the Mammut quality.Very nice, what price range are we talking?
Kidney, lung or both?
Thanks! I added it to my cart. You’d think someone with two toolboxes full of tools would have a decent hex driver kit.I got it from a kiwi store. But I found a similar one on Amazon, so you should find one there. Just choose the 48 in 1
SOONAN Mini Precision Screwdriver Set, 48 in 1
Thanks J! Wish I'd bought the SS version though - would match more mods. I really love the way that looks on your Mixx with the battery tube rings/dugouts matching the af rings on the Kumo.@Pigs your new Kumo looks sharp on the Paramour.
Thanks to you I dug out my Kumo. I forgot what a lovely and flavorful vape it delivers.
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Thanks T.![]()
I don't have a Kumo yet, I've been in the German camp until now, but I'll have a Kumo SS sooner or later.Thanks J! Wish I'd bought the SS version though - would match more mods. I really love the way that looks on your Mixx with the battery tube rings/dugouts matching the af rings on the Kumo.
Yes the Aspire collaborations with Sunbox, Atmizoo and Steampipes have all been winners. Great designs available to the masses.I don't have a Kumo yet, I've been in the German camp until now, but I'll have a Kumo SS sooner or later.
Steampipes did a good job with the wicking system!
Question, without the DT and 510 connection, how tall is the Kumo?
Cabeo is 38mm.
Where is the cheapest place to buy Mixx and Kumo these days?
Thanks so much for your tips, and the dimension of the Kumo, 2mm shorter than the Cabeo.Yes the Aspire collaborations with Sunbox, Atmizoo and Steampipes have all been winners. Great designs available to the masses.
I measured 36mm from the base to top without the DT.
Not sure the best deal at the moment . I paid AUD $70 for the Kumo and picked it up - so about $46 USD door to door. You could probably find a better deal somewhere.
I wonder if I spent the time would I be able to bring the brushed finish on mine to a polished SS finish with the right sanding techniques? Might be too much effort with all the little subtle angles of the many parts.