Tor R

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Why do you see that as a negative?

Every mech AIO I've seen has a ledge for the tank to sit on (like regulated AIO's). Each has some open space under that ledge. The only parts inside a mech AIO is the contact for the battery, the switch and an adjustment for the tank. That makes tear-down for maintenance/cleaning and reassembly very easy.

There's a gentleman over on VU who owns many mech AIO's. I've chatted with him and he's had zero problems/issues with his mech AIO's. No leaks. With a proper build, decent tank section and good o-rings there should not be any leaks.
Maybe a little typo on my part.
An AIO is to get as much as possible inside, and keep it as small as possible. Mostly it is the battery that sets the height, the boro tank is standardized in size, and then the normal thing has been to try to get the electronics under the tank. Practical solution.
 

AngeNZ

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    Morning shinies ;)


    Vapemail!
    I got tired of my coil kit tools stripping deck screws. I've got a large 57in1 toolkit that I use on my electronics, but I wanted a smaller set that will fit in my coil kit. The one I chose below is perfect. It's double-sided and the other side has hex drivers 0.7mm and above, it slides into a metal case and the case is small enough to fit in my kit.

    20230517-085134-01.jpg
     

    AngeNZ

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    Hmmm,since im new to RDA's i gotta ask both RDAs (Nitrous and Dead Rabbit) are made of Stainless Steel.

    They both basically have the same ohms and i am using basically the same wattage,only difference is the size of the coil.
    The Nitrous is a 2.5mm,Dead Rabbit a 3mm...and i am noticing the Dead Rabbit gets a lot hotter than the Nitrous.

    Is that because the size of the coil,or perhaps just the design of the RDA?

    Your 3mm may have either thicker core wires, or a thicker wrap wire or just overall more mass than the 2.5mm - which would make it hotter. Maybe try identical coils with the same id to check if it's the RDA or not.
     

    hittman

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    Morning shinies ;)


    Vapemail!
    I got tired of my coil kit tools stripping deck screws. I've got a large 57in1 toolkit that I use on my electronics, but I wanted a smaller set that will fit in my coil kit. The one I chose below is perfect. It's double-sided and the other side has hex drivers 0.7mm and above, it slides into a metal case and the case is small enough to fit in my kit.

    20230517-085134-01.jpg
    Where'd you get it. I bought something similar thinking it would have everything I needed and it didn't have the hex drivers. It did have a bunch of bits that I will never use though.
     

    ShowMeTwice

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    Maybe a little typo on my part.
    An AIO is to get as much as possible inside, and keep it as small as possible. Mostly it is the battery that sets the height, the boro tank is standardized in size, and then the normal thing has been to try to get the electronics under the tank. Practical solution.

    I agree.

    What I like about the mech AIO's is the smaller form factor versus a regulated AIO. I've seen some pretty small, and sexy looking, mech AIO's over on VU and on Facebook.

    The ideal height for the body of a mech AIO would be 70mm like my Ennequadro Flexy SBS's.
    The width 22mm like the B22. I prefer 18650's.

    The B22 is one of the most compact regulated AIO's at 22 x 48 x 82 mm.
     

    AngeNZ

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    Where'd you get it. I bought something similar thinking it would have everything I needed and it didn't have the hex drivers. It did have a bunch of bits that I will never use though.

    I got it from a kiwi store. But I found a similar one on Amazon, so you should find one there. Just choose the 48 in 1
    SOONAN Mini Precision Screwdriver Set, 48 in 1
     

    Tor R

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    Very nice, what price range are we talking?

    Kidney, lung or both?
    Everything depends on the Mammut quality.
    Around €1000 for mod and above.
    From €1900 for a pipe.

    Dicodes has a hefty selection of stabwood mods, and obviously Mammut too, a dealer can see what's available and order what the customer wants.
     
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    hittman

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    Somewhere between here and there

    Pigs

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    @Pigs your new Kumo looks sharp on the Paramour. :greengrin:

    Thanks to you I dug out my Kumo. I forgot what a lovely and flavorful vape it delivers.

    View attachment 995618

    Thanks T. :thumbs:
    Thanks J! Wish I'd bought the SS version though - would match more mods. I really love the way that looks on your Mixx with the battery tube rings/dugouts matching the af rings on the Kumo.
     

    Tor R

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    Thanks J! Wish I'd bought the SS version though - would match more mods. I really love the way that looks on your Mixx with the battery tube rings/dugouts matching the af rings on the Kumo.
    I don't have a Kumo yet, I've been in the German camp until now, but I'll have a Kumo SS sooner or later.
    Steampipes did a good job with the wicking system!
    Question, without the DT and 510 connection, how tall is the Kumo?
    Cabeo is 38mm.

    Where is the cheapest place to buy Mixx and Kumo these days?
     

    Pigs

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    I don't have a Kumo yet, I've been in the German camp until now, but I'll have a Kumo SS sooner or later.
    Steampipes did a good job with the wicking system!
    Question, without the DT and 510 connection, how tall is the Kumo?
    Cabeo is 38mm.

    Where is the cheapest place to buy Mixx and Kumo these days?
    Yes the Aspire collaborations with Sunbox, Atmizoo and Steampipes have all been winners. Great designs available to the masses.
    I measured 36mm from the base to top without the DT.
    Not sure the best deal at the moment . I paid AUD $70 for the Kumo and picked it up - so about $46 USD door to door. You could probably find a better deal somewhere.

    I wonder if I spent the time would I be able to bring the brushed finish on mine to a polished SS finish with the right sanding techniques? Might be too much effort with all the little subtle angles of the many parts.
     

    Tor R

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    Yes the Aspire collaborations with Sunbox, Atmizoo and Steampipes have all been winners. Great designs available to the masses.
    I measured 36mm from the base to top without the DT.
    Not sure the best deal at the moment . I paid AUD $70 for the Kumo and picked it up - so about $46 USD door to door. You could probably find a better deal somewhere.

    I wonder if I spent the time would I be able to bring the brushed finish on mine to a polished SS finish with the right sanding techniques? Might be too much effort with all the little subtle angles of the many parts.
    Thanks so much for your tips, and the dimension of the Kumo, 2mm shorter than the Cabeo.

    You probably have the sandblasted Kumo, satin I think it's called.
    Yep, you can polish it up to be as shiny as the SS version, or even higher.
    You have to disassemble and take out the PSU first, reassemble it without the psu. If I remember correctly, it also came with a metal tank, if so, put it in.

    Now, coming to the way I would choose to proceed, a drill I hope you have.
    A bit of rubber, or tape, around the 510 connection, enough to protect the threads well, and maybe a couple extra round with the tape.
    Then in the drill with it, see that it rotates fine without any special throw. The finer it rotates, the better and faster result you get.

    Sanding paper, I would start with grit around p240 -360.
    Then it is up to you how high a gloss you want, but if you gradually increase the grit, the next step up will be p400-600.
    If you finish with P1200, it is a mirror finish.
     

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