So I could turn out to be full of it here.
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If you are using a 2 battery regulated mod resistance doesn't really matter. As long as you are using 20A+ batteries you are fine at 100W no matter how low it is. My Minikin has a .1 cutoff. Just barely made it
Not technically true. There’s a lower limit where the chip will have problems regulating.
Hmm... my mod thinks it’s at .1 atm but it’s been as low as .06. That’s definitely in range. Do you have one of those handy graphs for a legend 200w by any chance?
I’ll go look. It’s pertinent in this case. Thanks
I didn't know that. The lowest I think any mod I have will fire is my Yihi at .05 Is there a low limit cutoff on thae DNA250?
Yep; the board Geekvape uses for the Aegis Legend and Nova will do 12 Volts. Pretty much the only 2x18650 mods that can do that.
The batteries only care about Watts. Which combination of resistance/voltage you use is irrelevant.
All I´m saying is you dont need to build that low on a regulated device. Its usually smarter NOT to build that low. Simply because thinner wires have less mass, need less power for the same vapor/flavor, are more efficient and run cooler. And thinner wire results in higher resistance.
Using a (for example) 22G build on a regulated device isnt exactly the smartest thing to do.
Another thing thats a problem on super low builds is that even the tiniest fluctuations in resistance will change your power output a lot.
Take a 0,03 Ohm fluctuation:
0,07 to 0,1 is a ~40% difference.
0,30 to 0,33 is only a 10% difference.
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That’s...scary. The reason I didn’t check my vape immediately when I started getting ohm fluctuations is because my information is that any portable ohm meter isn’t actually capable of accurately measuring a hundredth or an ohm. The accuracy is generally closer to 0.04ohm. If you want better than that you need a device that needs its own cart to be carried around. I aimed for 0.10 ohm and so far have gotten between .06 and 0.14 on the same coil. Aiming for 0.05 is very much in dead short territory. Heck I’M very much in dead short territory. I’m repeatedly pulling my batteries and checking for possible heat buildup. I don’t have batteries in it unless I’m watching the thing and it doesn’t go in my pocket. I personally don’t consider anything below 0.2 to be safe enough not to worry about constantly.
The check resistance function on mt SX Mini will give me an ohms reading to 4 decimal places. As far as how accurate it is I couldn't tell you. I have seen people do some crazy stuff with mechanical mods. One worker in a vape shop was using dual 4 wrap 18ga round wire in an 18650 mech mod. I told him that is way too low, but he wasn't hearing me. He "does it all the time". I don't really use my mech mods anymore except squonks. I use single coils on those. For cloudy builds I tend to shoot for around .35 on regulated mods. I use more wraps to get surface area and turn up the power till I get to where I am happy. Usually in the neighborhood of 40-60 W. Mechanicals I shoot for .2. To build low on regulated doesn't make sense to me. On mechanicals you are building your power level but regulated you can simply turn it up to where you want it.
I can't speak to accuracy since I have nothing else to measure with that displays this precision, but my DNA 75C shows 4 decimal places when measuring resistance.
Interesting. I have clearly gone into this little jaunt underprepared. Let’s hear it for dumb luck. I am officially a bit unnerved.
Ok, trying to make sure I get what you are saying here, so I’m going to more or less simply paraphrase you to make sure I’m getting or not getting it and thereby showcase any lack of understanding I will apparently very likely have. They don’t teach this stuff in art school. I just poke around on the internet looking for hints on how to die less quickly.
Watts are energy/time or flow rate of energy. This makes sense. A battery can only throw a certain number of electrons per second without bad things happening.
Resistance is work. Heat in this case. A battery doesn’t care what you do with its electrons after it throws them at you.
Voltage is not Volts. Just to be clear when you say voltage you are referriing to e not V, correct?
Yep. My whole thing here was an attempt to demonstrate stupidity from a safe distance. That distance appears to be smaller than I may have intended.
But resistance in this case is heat. Since we are trying to generate heat via resistance...the term efficient is confusing me here...are there any typos in that last sentence by any chance?
Because you’re trying to make a really inefficient conductor, rather than an efficient one to get more heat out of each flying electron the battery has spit out.
Yep. And to make it worse the ability of the device to even measure them isn’t as exact as advertised
This only really applies if you are trying to get the most wattage out of 2 coils, which I don’t really think is that efficient or capable of getting a really good vape.
Although at around 150 you shouldn’t really be having these issues.
.12 of a quad fused Clapton would work fine.
Above that I usually go for more coils to spread the heat around. At 8 coils each coil only needs about 35 watts of heat capacity which is super easy.
Although at around 150 you shouldn’t really be having these issues.
.12 of a quad fused Clapton would work fine.
Above that I usually go for more coils to spread the heat around. At 8 coils each coil only needs about 35 watts of heat capacity which is super easy.
There is nothing bad about the fact that the Aegis can do 12 Volts. All it does is that it gives you a much wider range of possible resistance/power options.
The way to calculate Amp draw on a regulated device is totally independent from the resistance. Only dialed in Watts matter. Also, I´d say with two 20A batteries at 100W you´re good. No need to worry
Look at it this way...to calculate how fast something (in this case, our coil) heats up you ONLY need Watts. How you generate those Watts is irrelevant. 1,0 Ohm and 10 Volts give the same 100W as 0,1 Ohm and 3,2 Volts.
The other thing thats important is how much mass your coil has. Thick wire has more mass, thus needs more time and/or energy to heat up compared to thinner wire.
As our primary goal is to vaporize liquid and not to heat up big chunks of metal; the less mass your coil has, the more efficient it is. You´ll notice this as thick wire builds will produce warmer vapor and will heat up your atty alot more. All this heat is "lost" energy that a thinner wire build would have used to vaporize more liquid.
You really do not need to think about resistance. The ONLY thing you ever need resistance for is to calculate Amp draw and how many Watts you get when you throw a build on a Mech. On a regulated mod you can mostly just forget about it. Its alot easier to do builds when you dont need to aim for a target resistance, too. Its a good thing.
I’m assuming this is a continuation of your 7:05pm (according to the website anyway) reply to me. This thread has become one of kind of typically unwieldy length for around here and who is talking to who about what is starting to get confusing.
More coils means more balancing and wicking and General messing about though. More PITA. Personally I’m such a lump I generally wick single coil if I can get away with it simply because that way there’s only one coil and one wick and no balancing at all. In this case I went dual coil because it was the most coils I could fit in the atty.
Actually most regulated mods are more efficient at levels above there lower limit. For instance it may be more efficient at .2 than at .05 and therefore easier on the board.
Sorry I highjacked the thread earlier.
Sorry I highjacked the thread earlier.
Yeah, I seem to have been pushing it harder than I thought I was on this one. I think I’m calling it on account of I already scared myself once tonight
Lol. You’re apologizing for making a 7 page thread more confusing? That’s like pissing in the ocean. Plus some sealife or other will just find it tasty and eat it.
Right it’s harder to build but it’s a bit easier to actually vape unless you like a super hot vape.
Like I said before the profile exists now so I haven’t actually wrapped a coil in months.
Also don’t forget that most mods have an upper limit set by their regulator and max voltage cutoff. The Dna250c falls off drastically past .4 ohms.
Edit: I vaped it.
This has been sitting on my desk for a month.... should I vape this?
This has been sitting on my desk for a month.... should I vape this?
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