Terminator/Nautilus/Choddy/Oddy Clone Pics, Tip,Tricks and Quirks

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Hostile

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Hi everyone.

I've been trying to find answers about this throught this thread, but its freaking huge and i just cant read that many posts. x.x

I got my Term-C a few days ago with an ithaka on the way, and i'm having trouble with my e-juice feeding from the top tank down to the juice control and wick area, so I'm getting huge air bubbles in my clear tank area. Is this normal? Is there a fix for it? It just kind of looks ugly and just seems wrong when the clear tank is half full but the top tank is almost completely full. I'll keep parusing the thread for an answer though :3

Beyond that i am havig some flooding issues as well, though im sure those will go away once i have more experience with the Terminator and i watch a few more videos / read some more threads. I no longer trap the negative wire under the locking ring and that seems to have helped, but i still get some gurgle. Are there any other run of the mill reasons that this might happen?

For those experienced Term users, how open do you usually leave your juice control? About a full turn (maybe a little more with 100% vg juice) is about as much as i can go before i start noticing flooding.

I'll go with a leak somewhere in the tank. I've had leaking problems, but it was either a bad o-ring or not screwed in right, or recently I dropped my pv, and broke the base of the terminator, where the 510 connector is.

I open mine anywhere from 3/4 of a full turn to 2 full turns, depending on how I've got the tank set up. if the draw is tight, I close the juice flow down, if the draw is loose, I open the juice flow up. usually flooding is just a matter of adjusting the flow control.

I can lay mine down on it's side (and do every night) and I have no leaking from it at all. ok, let me repeat that. I have 3 different terminators going at any given time, and I have no leaking issues when I leave them on the desk, or night stand overnight.
 

dwcraig1

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Could some one help me with a o-ring question? I wanted to find a new top mouthpiece oring and found a full oddy kit and wanted to make sure that kit would swap with a v1 term unless someone has a link for a cost effective o-ring for that. The one that came with mine seems hit and miss. It could be user error but at this point I want to try a new and possibly better oring for the mouth piece. Thanks in advance.


Here for 50 for $4 plus $2.50 shipping
http://compare.ebay.com/like/200749007832?var=lv&ltyp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar

And the Oddy o-ring kit has the right ones. Stormy's should have them also
 
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Bocephus

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dwcraig1

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I bought a bunch of o-rings from mcmaster carr, and got something like 30 or 40 of each.
The sizes:


Odysseus short mode (new rebuildable style)
16 x 1.5 (2) Odysseus base, between refilling cap and body
1.78 x 1.78 Under center pin
9 x 2 Between caps
3 x 2 Under the center post's top nut
 

upsetter21

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DW, I've been trying to figure out what's keeping me from just puting an Ithaka rebuildable portion right into a ggts base and build the rest with Terminator parts, and I guess the tobeco (taller) lock ring.

I mean to ask, what is the difference in dimensions? I realize Ithaka rebuildables are longer in some way.

My feeling is the Ggts bases are a little deeper than the standard term's, and the tobeco ring is taller. Are you saying that and a medium tank setup will handle the Ithaka rebuildable? How about stacking a couple lockrings?

The dual channels is really the only aspect of Ithaka that excites me, at least until Imeo makes a bottom coil atty with the air intake having raised ducting, rather than the current drainage style.
 

dwcraig1

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DW, I've been trying to figure out what's keeping me from just puting an Ithaka rebuildable portion right into a ggts base and build the rest with Terminator parts, and I guess the tobeco (taller) lock ring.

I mean to ask, what is the difference in dimensions? I realize Ithaka rebuildables are longer in some way.

My feeling is the Ggts bases are a little deeper than the standard term's, and the tobeco ring is taller. Are you saying that and a medium tank setup will handle the Ithaka rebuildable? How about stacking a couple lockrings?

The dual channels is really the only aspect of Ithaka that excites me, at least until Imeo makes a bottom coil atty with the air intake having raised ducting, rather than the current drainage style.

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...-pics-tip-tricks-quirks-254.html#post10093128
You must have missed this, nothing extra needed, just add Term with GGTS base with Term's lock ring only
 
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M1k318

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Dec 20, 2012
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Michigan
Nice! Same here, worked overtime and went nuts with ordering... waiting on a medium tank set from rampage for the term, along with and a ....-load of more silica and non resistance wire, a hippo ring, and a mech mod, and a kick. Will probably be in NY awhile.. But it will give me some time to get good at rebuilding different coils for it :)
When its all here my wife will be wondering why a grown man is skipping around the house like a kid lol.
Until i have to be like hunny... I only paid like $10 for that... i need it... lol
 

deezdrama

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Did some polishing today...

I keep getting leaking from my terminator-c so suspected the mouthpiece not being smooth enough,

ended up using some 600 grit sandpaper and wetsanded my mkb-ts and term-c, spent alot of time on the mouthpiece making sure it was extra smooth. Then I put the buffing wheel on the dremel and buffed everything, made my frosted tank clear too...
microterm.jpgmicroterm2.jpgmicroterm3.jpg

Then I cleaned everything and meticulously rebuilt it using a microcoil...

If I crack juice control open more than just a hair I STILL get leaks
 

Innocuous

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I'm finding this Terminator-C an interesting experience. Also interesting how the same mix in the Aga-T will taste oddly different.

I did discover that the clear tank seems to somehow impede juice-flow on a fill. Not sure why, unless it's surface tension or thicker than the stainless tank-section. However, I run in short-mode and just swapped the clear for the SS, and it fills much more simply and easily.

Running 1/64" ni60 ribbon and 2mm ekowool, (the 1.5mm ewokfur - with the core? - it seemed to choke the wicking and I needed to rewick within 3 days).

Yes, I'm looking forward to hearing about #230 myself.
 

upsetter21

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It looks like you may need to pack those channels with more wick. I often use cotton yarn - two strands was leaking sometimes, and when I added a third strand, no more leaks. Looking at your pictures I don't think there is enough wick in the channels to create a seal when the wick is saturated. In my experience, if the saturated wick doesn't swell up against the wall of the mouthpiece, air can come into the tank via the mouthpiece canal and let your juice drain.


Did some polishing today...

I keep getting leaking from my terminator-c so suspected the mouthpiece not being smooth enough,

ended up using some 600 grit sandpaper and wetsanded my mkb-ts and term-c, spent alot of time on the mouthpiece making sure it was extra smooth. Then I put the buffing wheel on the dremel and buffed everything, made my frosted tank clear too...
View attachment 231444View attachment 231443View attachment 231442

Then I cleaned everything and meticulously rebuilt it using a microcoil...

If I crack juice control open more than just a hair I STILL get leaks
 
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