The Term C has stopped leaking... just by letting it sit awhile. Seems to be working fine for now.... all I can say is: ??????
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Term slots up for screw driver access but only use a screw driver to get it into the position that you want then grasp the ceramic housing with your fingers while holding the shaft where the bottom o-ring sits with needle nose pliers and tighten it pretty tight but don't break it.
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I broke mine the other night during a build cause I snugged it up too tight. It was very upsetting. Oh well I didn't have any vape mail on the way, so I needed to order at least something right ?
I swear that each time I've tightened that nut that it was going to break the ceramic but none have broken as yet. If not pretty tight they tend to come loose and twist and break the wires and such.
Yup. I've had a few builds that I've taken apart where the wires were lose on the bottom. That's a danger for shorts too.
What do you mean by "get it into the position that you want"? Get what into position? I finally broke it down again to get to know it better and all see is tighten
Wait... Fiddling as I'm typing ..... Looks like the post to the mod is adjustable?
This was my original problem. Every time i tighten the nut to put pos wire in the piece above it came loose. So it wasn't snug enough. So . snug but not too snug. Yes?
I never lock down the neg: I just fold it around and jam it in the neg channel;
The pos-leg - I have found if you wrap it the WRONG way (counter-clock) around the post, and THEN tighten - will stop trying to break the NR/R joins. It's absolutely the wrong way I was taught for wiring houses/boxes, but it works "perfect" with these atomizers. Once it's locked down, just poke and tuck the somewaht loose pos-leg so it won't short in the outer sleeve and mouthpiece.
The pos-leg - I have found if you wrap it the WRONG way (counter-clock) around the post, and THEN tighten - will stop trying to break the NR/R joins. It's absolutely the wrong way I was taught for wiring houses/boxes, but it works "perfect" with these atomizers. Once it's locked down, just poke and tuck the somewaht loose pos-leg so it won't short in the outer sleeve and mouthpiece.
Thanks innocuous! But I'm still using ready wires so breakage is not an issue. I got it all back together and it's working s awesome!
So far.....
Trust me, Redi-Wires break a whole lot more often than knotting/twisting will. But, enjoy.
I have yet to break any...
Stormy is getting some which are made with Kanthal R wire in the extended length soon.. The ready wires from Madvapes are the best ones I have used. The ones that have regular Kanthal are a bit longer and more durable than the ones from Stormys. I was almost gonna order the ready wires with ribbon wire, but the reviews on those seem bad.
My only complaint with the ready wires from Madvapes are the 3.0 Ohm ones that I got were too long. Instead of using a different gauge Kanthal, they are just twice as long as the 1.7 ohm ones. I seriously have to wrap like 7 times to use up all the Kanthal section.
My only complaint with the ready wires from Madvapes are the 3.0 Ohm ones that I got were too long. Instead of using a different gauge Kanthal, they are just twice as long as the 1.7 ohm ones. I seriously have to wrap like 7 times to use up all the Kanthal section.
I simply threw the redi-wire in my box for Dire Straits Days. THey flat out are not as easy to work with as my own twisted stuff. YMMV
I've been joining wires on multiple attys for about 6 months , I finally got fed up enough and my TSAF will be here in about 10-12 days. I'm really excited for that, as I have five attys that use NR ; Killer 705, eBaron Dripper Pro, Euforia , term c x2.
I don't like metal tips so the term has that downfall. Put it on a mod drive Down the road take a vape, hit a pothole, and bam your tooth is chipped. Well you get the idea... Here is an option I found.
Acover for the oddity tobecco clone. It fits tight and stays Well.
Found this pen
Put the rubbery silicone part on the mouthpiece works great!
Acover for the oddity tobecco clone. It fits tight and stays Well.
Found this pen
Put the rubbery silicone part on the mouthpiece works great!
Hang on to that tobeco MP in case you ever get a Terminator or Nautilus. You can use a silicon piece from a stardust and a steel carto sleeve to enable drip tips. Simply slip the silicone over the Tobeco MP, then slide the carto sleeve over the silicone. The MP will now be the proper diameter to work in a Terminator body, and the carto sleeve that extends beyond the MP will accept a drip tip. This also increases juice capacity because the Tobeco MP has much less meat than the standard Rainbow MP's. I got the idea of this upgrade from the Nautilus/Kayfun Polish upgrade kit. I may be repeating myself here, but I can't help spread this simple yet awesome mod(ification).
I just got my second Terminator and noticed it has a different center pin. The air hole path is smaller and makes for a very slightly tighter draw. You would never even notice the difference if you didn't know it was there, but it seems to have changed air/vapor mixture some. There is more TH now with about the same vapor and taste. Once this coil is spent I'm going to make a new one and use the same juice in both to dod a side by side. Once I get hole I can take some pics.
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