Terminator/Nautilus/Choddy/Oddy Clone Pics, Tip,Tricks and Quirks

Status
Not open for further replies.

JazzyTech

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Nov 16, 2012
812
508
California
I'm not familiar with the "shoddity". I only have two Terminators.

I had to add a small plastic spacer to adjust the positive stem protruding out of the 510 on the Term. Later, after watching Imeo demonstrate how to build the Ody, I realized that *really* tightening one of the components on the Term would take up some of the length of the positive stem. Now I no longer need the spacer I made. Since the pressure is mainly on the ceramic cup, I refrained from adding the information here. If you really crank down too hard, the potential for breaking the ceramic is fairly high imo.

TBH, I lucked out with the Terminator. I'd been looking everywhere for an Ody, and when I heard Stormy had 'em, I jumped. I don't mind the 60USD price in the least. When the Term-C came out (a week! later) I got one as well. It works fine, but the longer mouthpiece seems to affect the quality of the vape a little. I still prefer the original Terminator (lol@"original").
 

in4mati0n11

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Sep 30, 2012
552
200
Tampa
I am really scratchin my head here. The grommet sealed the positive post hole so I just have a tiny oring below the nut which I used to adjust for how far the positive post sticks out of the 510 connector. The ceramic is tight to the base so the grommet is doing the sealing from the other side. My wire is just wrapped tight around the post with a couple of turns.

After watching Junky, I realized that I may have did the build wrong. But I may have accidentally fix the problem that other people have had with the positive post connection to the battery. Go figure....

Damnit gdeal!! I really didn't want to waste anymore of my worst juice!! But now you have me scratching my head too...
 

gdeal

Moved On
ECF Veteran
Aug 4, 2012
2,324
7,271
( -_-) Ω~
Damnit gdeal!! I really didn't want to waste anymore of my worst juice!! But now you have me scratching my head too...

Now I got a decision to make...Do I break down a perfectly good build to take photos and post or do I just keep my fingers crossed that it stays sealed?

@Jazzy, Now I am thinking why they didnt just use a flat seal/o-ring underneath the ceramic to cushion and make the seal?
 

LongHaul

Howdy Y'All
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Aug 10, 2012
3,396
2,388
Bradenton, Florida
Are there any "Odysseus problems" specific threads? A searched a bit yesterday and about all I found was the gargantuan Odysseus Official Thread. I tried reading through that, but it was just too much even after skipping the first 120 pages of pre-order chatter lol

thats because the design they all copied is 2 years old and very outdated....lol
 

JazzyTech

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Nov 16, 2012
812
508
California
When we figure it out, make sure we tell us... :D
What the problem? The are all those voices in your head having a spat and not on speaking terms? :D

Puns aside:
the large nut that holds the wick and ceramics in place is too short and the threads are too loose which (with the ground wire) encourages the entire assembly to "kant" to one side.

The positive post extends too far out of the 510 connector with no way to adjust (fixed in later Ody versions I believe).

O-rings are too small and allow for leaking if not perfectly adjusted/sealed.

Hmm.. I think I'm missing one..
 
Last edited:

dwcraig1

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Mar 17, 2012
9,014
49,694
Imperial Beach, California
Re: spacer on 510 post, you defiantly don't want to over-tighten that connection but with the weight of the atomizer you want it to sit on the crown of the 510 connection of the mod, otherwise it starts doing a liittle dance on your mod's positive post and will destroy the grommet under it prematurely. So what ever it takes to get it right should be done.
 

dwcraig1

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Mar 17, 2012
9,014
49,694
Imperial Beach, California
There's been a lot of talk about that very bottom o-ring inside the base on the positive post concerning leaking/flooding, honestly I just can't see it happening unless perhaps the unit is flooding from some other cause and it runs out where it can. I look at that o-ring strictly as an insulator.
I've been thinking about doing a test where I put something else in its place and fill tank with water, I just haven't figured what to use, maybe one of those locking washers that look like a gear/star.
I'm still pushing my no air leaking in/no juice leaking out concept.

See post #522 and 523 for the results of this little test.
 
Last edited:

JazzyTech

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Nov 16, 2012
812
508
California
I haven't had any issues in the last week or so. The little spacer I made worked great until I realized it wasn't really necessary. I'm thinking about getting the same diameter o-rings Imeo recommended for the Ody. My understanding that the ones on the Term are a bit smaller, but again, no issues lately and other projects require my attention.
 

Ictinike

A Minion of Cthulhu
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Sep 13, 2012
609
796
52
NE Ohio, USA
There's been a lot of talk about that very bottom o-ring inside the base on the positive post concerning leaking/flooding, honestly I just can't see it happening unless perhaps the unit is flooding from some other cause and it runs out where it can. I look at that o-ring strictly as an insulator.
I've been thinking about doing a test where I put something else in its place and fill tank with water, I just haven't figured what to use, maybe one of those locking washers that look like a gear/star.
I'm still pushing my no air leaking in/no juice leaking out concept

That's not where it leaks on mine. If I clean my 2 up and assemble and add water it drips right out the center hole in the center post, not around it at the 510. I initially found the tobeco video and saw they were adding an o-ring between the negative nut and the mp and that solved 90% of my leaking problems. Kwalka found that another o-ring between the base and the neg nut solved the rest of his (at least to my knowledge and updated reading)

The threads and tolerances are weak so that may not solve much but for the most part I believe it's leaking from the center post, those that actually are hollow as they should be (some where not), not the bottom o-ring to base connection.
 

dwcraig1

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Mar 17, 2012
9,014
49,694
Imperial Beach, California
I haven't had any issues in the last week or so. The little spacer I made worked great until I realized it wasn't really necessary. I'm thinking about getting the same diameter o-rings Imeo recommended for the Ody. My understanding that the ones on the Term are a bit smaller, but again, no issues lately and other projects require my attention.

I want to add that the excess pressure created by over tightening the post would be against the ceramic housing, not the ceramic unless you could get it so tight that it would distort the bottom of the housing
 

dwcraig1

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Mar 17, 2012
9,014
49,694
Imperial Beach, California
OK, here are three basic ways to have flooding on this type atomizer,
1. liquid control open way too far and draw on it.
2. draw really really hard on mouthpiece with it in anything but closed position.
3. this one is where hey every thing is right, it worked on every other re wick, it worked OK for a couple of hours , well 99% of the time it is and will be that very top o-ring inside the tank top leaking air into the tank.

It is just not some thing that you can see with your eyes so it is "out of sight, out of mind"
 

dwcraig1

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Mar 17, 2012
9,014
49,694
Imperial Beach, California
That's not where it leaks on mine. If I clean my 2 up and assemble and add water it drips right out the center hole in the center post, not around it at the 510. I initially found the tobeco video and saw they were adding an o-ring between the negative nut and the mp and that solved 90% of my leaking problems. Kwalka found that another o-ring between the base and the neg nut solved the rest of his (at least to my knowledge and updated reading)

The threads and tolerances are weak so that may not solve much but for the most part I believe it's leaking from the center post, those that actually are hollow as they should be (some where not), not the bottom o-ring to base connection.

on my Tobeco the mouth piece can not be screwed down far enough to close, and it needs to be closed during refilling so the would help with that, but if it leaks after it's been closed up,(not to be confused with what got in there while opened to fill) then it is leaking air in from the top.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Users who are viewing this thread