Terminator/Nautilus/Choddy/Oddy Clone Pics, Tip,Tricks and Quirks

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XfooYen

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Does the V2 have any changes aside from the rebuildable part? I just picked up a couple V2 ceramic cup assemblies to put in my V1s. What other advantages does the V2 have? I read the holes in the 510 are a little larger. That can be modded. Did they do away with the lip at the base which prevents the tank from sitting flush? That would be worth buying.
 

dwcraig1

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Does the V2 have any changes aside from the rebuildable part? I just picked up a couple V2 ceramic cup assemblies to put in my V1s. What other advantages does the V2 have? I read the holes in the 510 are a little larger. That can be modded. Did they do away with the lip at the base which prevents the tank from sitting flush? That would be worth buying.

The only real difference is the rebuildable assembly. The two air holes on the side of the 510 connection are slightly larger but I doubt that they have much effect in lessening the draw.
 

XfooYen

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The only real difference is the rebuildable assembly. The two air holes on the side of the 510 connection are slightly larger but I doubt that they have much effect in lessening the draw.

Awesome. I thought so from the looks of it. Nice to know we can turn our existing V1s into V2s without hassle (especially since I polished and de-knurled both my Terms). Just ordered 2 V2 rebuildables. Now the question is; Should I sell my V1 rebuildables or keep them? Might be able to recoup some of the expense.
 

Strangebrew

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Recieved the V1 from Stormy's Vapor Cellar LLC. Rebuilding the wick and coil isn't troublesome yet requires more time than a few Vivi Nova heads.
Talk about the rank taste if ya neglect to boil the metal. :facepalm: The Ceramic Cup was flamed also. I installed a brass post in the wall of the mouthpiece to aid in knowing how many turns open.
My thanks to the folks that have posted modifications for the V1.

PS: Stormy has the V2 Ceramic Cup Assembly for Terminator (V1 or V2) in stock.
 
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JuniorNA

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Hey all - so far I'm about 500 posts in and still reading and learning but I just wanted to know real quick -

Are you guys wrapping the negative around the wick one wrap like in the video I linked below ? And then screwing the assembly nut down to touch the wire?

Or are you doing it like bishop heals and wrapping it around under the ceramic and the rubber grommit ?

Or is there a new and better way to catch that negative that I haven't gotten to yet ?

Sorry to change subject - carry on

Check out this video on YouTube:

http://youtu.be/9Fv1N1zt30I
 

XfooYen

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Hey all - so far I'm about 500 posts in and still reading and learning but I just wanted to know real quick -

Are you guys wrapping the negative around the wick one wrap like in the video I linked below ? And then screwing the assembly nut down to touch the wire?

Or are you doing it like bishop heals and wrapping it around under the ceramic and the rubber grommit ?

Or is there a new and better way to catch that negative that I haven't gotten to yet ?

Sorry to change subject - carry on

Check out this video on YouTube:

http://youtu.be/9Fv1N1zt30I

Generally the best way we've found with the Terminator is to wrap the negative wire around the wick several times so it makes good contact with the inside of the housing. Exactly like Imeo did except wrap it more than once. Three to five wraps depending on the thickness of the wick. Don't wrap it too tight or you can choke the wick and prevent capillary action from the collector bottom.

*Don't expect much. I'm on Tapatalk.*
 

JuniorNA

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Generally the best way we've found with the Terminator is to wrap the negative wire around the wick several times so it makes good contact with the inside of the housing. Exactly like Imeo did except wrap it more than once. Three to five wraps depending on the thickness of the wick. Don't wrap it too tight or you can choke the wick and prevent capillary action from the collector bottom.

*Don't expect much. I'm on Tapatalk.*


That is awesome, thanks so much for the fast response.
 

dwcraig1

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Tintreach

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So far the best I have found is to wrap around the wick and the cut it under the nut.

Now that is usually what causes flooding if for some reason I don't get a good seal around the mouth piece. So I have recently been tucking the wire in the threads after cutting/breaking it at the lock nut. Between the bevel on the base and the lock nut while making sure its to the left of the channel.

This way let's me get a good connection while keeping the lock nut sealed to the base. No flooding anymore and ohms never fluctuates.
 

Susaz

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So far the best I have found is to wrap around the wick and the cut it under the nut.

Now that is usually what causes flooding if for some reason I don't get a good seal around the mouth piece. So I have recently been tucking the wire in the threads after cutting/breaking it at the lock nut. Between the bevel on the base and the lock nut while making sure its to the left of the channel.

This way let's me get a good connection while keeping the lock nut sealed to the base. No flooding anymore and ohms never fluctuates.

I tightened the top nut so tight I needed to get a pair of pliers to get it lose. One day, using it in short mode (clear tank, short mouthpiece), unscrewing the mouthpiece the tank top unscrewed just a tad, a fingernail worth. It simply stopped leaking. Since then I unscrew just enough to let a fingernail in. Stopped gurgling and leaking and simply vapes wonderful.
 

bwxdme

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I'm torn between getting a terminator, rsst or agi. The only thing holding me from getting the terminator is this, can I use as mesh on it? If not where does everyone get their resistant and non resistant wire from? Seems like it needs to be one piece so I guess it needs to be soldered together?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
 

t8kiteasy

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I'm torn between getting a terminator, rsst or agi. The only thing holding me from getting the terminator is this, can I use as mesh on it? If not where does everyone get their resistant and non resistant wire from? Seems like it needs to be one piece so I guess it needs to be soldered together?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

I get mine from ebay and you do not have to solder them together. The Odysseus and breakdown on how to make a .9ohm Dual Coil Atty - YouTube ,this is how i wrap the nr and coils.
 

JuniorNA

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I just received my term and clear tank today and set it up with a single wick at the coils just to see how it worked with the juice control - I was able to fine a ground slot under the ceramic housing and near the bottom plate - the ring was on straight and so was the juice control mouth piece - it was almost too easy and no leaking "yet" - I cleaned all the parts and also the ceramic and lubed up the o-rings - so far it's working great the only thing is with the juice control closed - I'm not getting dry hits - 15 pulls later and it's still the same and when I open the juice control all the way I'm not getting any flooding or gurgling - it's almost the same vape no matter what I do ?

Does that mean there is an opening somewhere to Feed the wicks even with the juice control closed? I def must have missed something

It's working great but I expected problems lol -
 
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