With the V2 you can even skip the NR on the negative leg if you like. I just leave the R longer on that side with mine since it terminates in that metal channel anyway.
Does the V2 have any changes aside from the rebuildable part? I just picked up a couple V2 ceramic cup assemblies to put in my V1s. What other advantages does the V2 have? I read the holes in the 510 are a little larger. That can be modded. Did they do away with the lip at the base which prevents the tank from sitting flush? That would be worth buying.
10OFF ...... if Term is discountable
The only real difference is the rebuildable assembly. The two air holes on the side of the 510 connection are slightly larger but I doubt that they have much effect in lessening the draw.
Hey all - so far I'm about 500 posts in and still reading and learning but I just wanted to know real quick -
Are you guys wrapping the negative around the wick one wrap like in the video I linked below ? And then screwing the assembly nut down to touch the wire?
Or are you doing it like bishop heals and wrapping it around under the ceramic and the rubber grommit ?
Or is there a new and better way to catch that negative that I haven't gotten to yet ?
Sorry to change subject - carry on
Check out this video on YouTube:
http://youtu.be/9Fv1N1zt30I
Generally the best way we've found with the Terminator is to wrap the negative wire around the wick several times so it makes good contact with the inside of the housing. Exactly like Imeo did except wrap it more than once. Three to five wraps depending on the thickness of the wick. Don't wrap it too tight or you can choke the wick and prevent capillary action from the collector bottom.
*Don't expect much. I'm on Tapatalk.*
So far the best I have found is to wrap around the wick and the cut it under the nut.
Now that is usually what causes flooding if for some reason I don't get a good seal around the mouth piece. So I have recently been tucking the wire in the threads after cutting/breaking it at the lock nut. Between the bevel on the base and the lock nut while making sure its to the left of the channel.
This way let's me get a good connection while keeping the lock nut sealed to the base. No flooding anymore and ohms never fluctuates.
I'm torn between getting a terminator, rsst or agi. The only thing holding me from getting the terminator is this, can I use as mesh on it? If not where does everyone get their resistant and non resistant wire from? Seems like it needs to be one piece so I guess it needs to be soldered together?
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