I drilled another hole on my 510 base right across the one it comes with. much better!
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the 91% referrs to the size.. it's 9% shorter than "the russian".
it's gonna be "awesome" - well, it will when I can test against the naughtyfun! ;-P
If you watch Todd's review, the Russian 91% kept a nice feature the kayfun lite didn't...the airflow control. To me, that puts it ahead of the kayfun lite, and is my choice for my next RBA. Considering putting my extra kayfun conversion kit up for trade for one, but I might have to throw in the extra gg base as well. Doesn't matter really since I only have one MKB.
never ordered from them
Terminator Clear tank
dont know about international shipping
Clear Tank for Terminators
Accessories :: Oddy's Housing -
Odysseus Clear Tank - Avid Vaper
for those prices you might just get the whole atty
Terminator Clear tank
dont know about international shipping
Clear Tank for Terminators
Accessories :: Oddy's Housing -
Odysseus Clear Tank - Avid Vaper
for those prices you might just get the whole atty
http://www.vaporbreak.com/en/home/219-odysseus-rebuildable-atomizerodysseus-short-modc-cov.html
you never know whatcha gonna get
you never know whatcha gonna get
Eat the crow & you won't be hungry for a day. Teach a crow to steal food & you'll eat for a lifetime.
I like the think'n on SG1 but it doesn't eliminate... breakable 510's (it's a safety feature to keep your face safe if you crash your car during a drag), venting batt's (I thought they're always off gasing slightly - they're always vented), & the little juice discharges from condensation go into the battery bay?, plus no air regulation. Not for me by any stretch.
I can't say the Term 510 base is 1 or 2 pieces. I've stared at 'em for a long time, and I feel there has been a joining of some kind. There are some new spot weld technologies that are making it harder to distinguish joints. In any case an experienced machinist would call it faulty design because it breaks - and the true tradesmen would never have cut them this way - clearly too thin right at the mount.
GGTS mount... so strong I consider my mod to double as a self defence device.
I like the think'n on SG1 but it doesn't eliminate... breakable 510's (it's a safety feature to keep your face safe if you crash your car during a drag), venting batt's (I thought they're always off gasing slightly - they're always vented), & the little juice discharges from condensation go into the battery bay?, plus no air regulation. Not for me by any stretch.
I can't say the Term 510 base is 1 or 2 pieces. I've stared at 'em for a long time, and I feel there has been a joining of some kind. There are some new spot weld technologies that are making it harder to distinguish joints. In any case an experienced machinist would call it faulty design because it breaks - and the true tradesmen would never have cut them this way - clearly too thin right at the mount.
GGTS mount... so strong I consider my mod to double as a self defence device.
Got my ceramics for the Ithaka today and put it in my Hercules Housing. The first and only one I tried so far was a real tight squeeze. I pushed it in and then it wouldn't go in any further or come out. So, I bit the bullet and flipped the hosing upside down so the top of the ceramic was flat on the table and just jammed it in there.... like a gloooove! Just a heads up to all those who might need ceramics.
Sandpaper used on either piece will solve all that, I would choose the inside of the housing to take down a little but the ceramic is easiest.
Be careful. I ordered some clear tanks that were stated as Odysseus / Nautilus like this link and they only fit the Tobeco version.
Here is the place for Oddy,Term, Nautilus, Ithaka, Hercules, Fasttech Ithaka clone windows:
odysseus clear windows
27 mm for Ithaka stock mouth piece
odysseus clear windows
27 mm for Ithaka stock mouth piece
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I don't know if its just me but I'm seeing better results on my nautilus with 6 wrap 30ga @ 2 ohms. I tried doing 1.3-1.5 but I just get a burnt metal taste.
Does anyone have suggestions or keep it the way it is?
Setup: titan v1.5 with 18350 battery (would a 18650 be better?)
Does anyone have suggestions or keep it the way it is?
Setup: titan v1.5 with 18350 battery (would a 18650 be better?)
FastTech Ithaka clone
Mounted on MKB-TS with GGTS base so the air control ring pictured is from the MKB.
Mounted on MKB-TS with GGTS base so the air control ring pictured is from the MKB.
First setup on my Hercules leaked so much even before I screwed on the top cap. Is it because the center post is not straight? Then I used Mr Krinkle method,only 1/4 of the top channels are filled with wicks. Straighten the center post and no gurgling,no leaks.
But I watched some videos of Mister Hybrid. The silica wicks and even mesh U wicks are stuffed into the juice channels and it performed well.
Why is that? With Kayfun, it would have been major wicking issues.
But I watched some videos of Mister Hybrid. The silica wicks and even mesh U wicks are stuffed into the juice channels and it performed well.
Why is that? With Kayfun, it would have been major wicking issues.
Do you have the basic feeder open or closed, it will leak just about every time when filling if open and I see no use for them even when open(after filled)
FastTech Ithaka clone
Mounted on MKB-TS with GGTS base so the air control ring pictured is from the MKB.
What's the verdict on the Fasttech Ithaka clone?
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