The thread size of the GGTS base is 17 x 1.0 mm but this may not be the part that your asking about.
Under the "g" in guru is the 17 x 1 threads
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Under the "g" in guru is the 17 x 1 threads
ah-hah! Danken Sie!
I was planning to wait for the Ithaka-clone to arrive, if no one answered!
I was planning to wait for the Ithaka-clone to arrive, if no one answered!
Just a heads-up... Stormy got in some new, longer ready wires for the Hercules.. 
Still $8.99 for 50.
Ready Wire for Coils- Longer Length
I've been getting by with the others, but the extra length will be nice...
Still $8.99 for 50.Ready Wire for Coils- Longer Length
I've been getting by with the others, but the extra length will be nice...
hey thanks man! worked like a charm!
btw, have you guys tried a micro coil on an ody? i think cotton have much more tolerance on flooding rather than a silica.
I have a Term V2 on the way, is torching the ceramic cup needed or just a good washing? And is the neg wire done the sameway as the V1?
I slopped isopropyl all over, scrubbed a bit, and then held it in the stove-flame for awhile. Never had an issue since.
All your V1 skills and vids seem to still apply, but I stopped doing anything "exciting" with the neg-NR weeks ago.. Just fold it over a few times and stuff it in metal channel.
The pos-NR i wind counter-clock on the post and then tighten nut. When I wound it like I would for any real sort of wiring, the increased tension could bust the wire or much the twist-tie join.
All your V1 skills and vids seem to still apply, but I stopped doing anything "exciting" with the neg-NR weeks ago.. Just fold it over a few times and stuff it in metal channel.
The pos-NR i wind counter-clock on the post and then tighten nut. When I wound it like I would for any real sort of wiring, the increased tension could bust the wire or much the twist-tie join.
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Good info on the pos wire, I haven't read that one before and makes since. So you don't need to trap the wire anymore? I was also wondering, do you even need the NR on the neg leg anymore with the metal wick channel?
POS:
I run the pos leg maybe 2-3x longer than neg, and it comes down ceramic to CCW wrap the pos-post. Nut will "loosen" that wire a little when locked. If it does, use the tip of needlenose, or hemo's, or .... of tweezers to push any slack wire into the insulated channel.
NEG:
I run the neg leg down metal channel, clipping it no longer than threaded base. Around wick once or so, and then fold it as often as needed to hide it in the channel, under wick - .... of tweezers to jam-fit it. Then thread on locknut and thread into base. This works reliably 99 times outta' 100, and most often than not: the pos-leg will break while reassembling. Very, very rarely do I have a conductivity issue on the neg side.
FINISH:
Of late, I've been able to 100% salvage "old" wick/coil sets and I dryburn them in the stovetop flames, toss them into the recycle pile, and just insert an old or new assembly.
goto POS;
I run the pos leg maybe 2-3x longer than neg, and it comes down ceramic to CCW wrap the pos-post. Nut will "loosen" that wire a little when locked. If it does, use the tip of needlenose, or hemo's, or .... of tweezers to push any slack wire into the insulated channel.
NEG:
I run the neg leg down metal channel, clipping it no longer than threaded base. Around wick once or so, and then fold it as often as needed to hide it in the channel, under wick - .... of tweezers to jam-fit it. Then thread on locknut and thread into base. This works reliably 99 times outta' 100, and most often than not: the pos-leg will break while reassembling. Very, very rarely do I have a conductivity issue on the neg side.
FINISH:
Of late, I've been able to 100% salvage "old" wick/coil sets and I dryburn them in the stovetop flames, toss them into the recycle pile, and just insert an old or new assembly.
goto POS;
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When I find the positive wires nut wants to "pull the wire" it's because the center pin isn't tight enough in the ceramic housing and the whole post turns a little when tightening the little knurled nut, just something to be on the lookout for.
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Since we are discussing the Hercules here, I just received a fantastic little 23mm Astro by Kato, which fits the Herc like a glove with the 510 base. Smooth as silk bottom button, and hits like a freight train.. 
This little guy telescopes enough to use a Kick in 18650 mode if I want, and shrinks to super-stealth with an 18350. Here's a pic of it in 18500 mode, compared to the DHX-TS in 18650 mode:
Smooth as silk bottom button, and hits like a freight train.. This little guy telescopes enough to use a Kick in 18650 mode if I want, and shrinks to super-stealth with an 18350. Here's a pic of it in 18500 mode, compared to the DHX-TS in 18650 mode:
I've done duals in the term. The vape was too warm and too throaty for my liking because of the limited air flow in the term. You might like it though.
Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 2
Stacked coil looks cool stoned. Is there no issue with them touching?
I just joined the oddy crowd. I received a ss oddity tobeco clone yesterday. It's been working well took a couple hours of figuring it out and half a day to get use to the draw, compared to the protank. But it's pretty great already. After the initial fill and getting the pressure stabilized - I haven't had any leaking or gurgling. Thanks to ecf; I did my research ahead of time.
I ordered the stainless tobeco oddity from silica wicks.com and it came with 3 mm silica, wire, and an extra clear tank. Also have to say great service and fastest vapemail ever. 3mm Seems pretty thick for running down the channels. I just did a top wick cut just past the edges. Will have to try running it down the channel too but this is working good. Seems like it may not wick well with 3 in the channel. Haven't tried yet though.
only bad thing was I had to get more juice in her so I stacked the tanks and added a clear oring under the juice control to raise the mouthpiece a little. And and rocking it shorty style with no drip tip! I'd rather have more juice than a drip tip. I can adjust the juice control with something that fits in the mouthpiece tight enough; like a small flat screwdriver.( the white part is an oring I made from twisted Teflon since I was short one for the clear tank.)
Now I need a stainless mod to match. Lol
I just joined the oddy crowd. I received a ss oddity tobeco clone yesterday. It's been working well took a couple hours of figuring it out and half a day to get use to the draw, compared to the protank. But it's pretty great already. After the initial fill and getting the pressure stabilized - I haven't had any leaking or gurgling. Thanks to ecf; I did my research ahead of time.
I ordered the stainless tobeco oddity from silica wicks.com and it came with 3 mm silica, wire, and an extra clear tank. Also have to say great service and fastest vapemail ever. 3mm Seems pretty thick for running down the channels. I just did a top wick cut just past the edges. Will have to try running it down the channel too but this is working good. Seems like it may not wick well with 3 in the channel. Haven't tried yet though.
only bad thing was I had to get more juice in her so I stacked the tanks and added a clear oring under the juice control to raise the mouthpiece a little. And and rocking it shorty style with no drip tip! I'd rather have more juice than a drip tip. I can adjust the juice control with something that fits in the mouthpiece tight enough; like a small flat screwdriver.( the white part is an oring I made from twisted Teflon since I was short one for the clear tank.)
Now I need a stainless mod to match. Lol
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