Terminator/Nautilus/Choddy/Oddy Clone Pics, Tip,Tricks and Quirks

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Otherbarry92

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Here's the gap I'm talking about. In the picture I used peaches and cream #4 yarn (4 stands) split into two stands, and put 6 stands in the positive channel. This is way more then you would want to use since this stuff really expands. I'm just demonstrating how you can have the channel full, but there may still be empty space between the ceramic, steel housing, and the ring/base/mouthpeice.

2c384d60-1264-46bc-84a2-404ce57d0212_zps96733665.jpg


Here we see light coming through the gap.

IMG_20140218_125004_zpse0605dc5.jpg


So on my particular terminator-c, even if I was to use 3mm silica, areas outside of the actual wick channel are left as juice channels, hence flooding.

Solved it by using cotton balls, and after placing the wick, patch up the gap with tiny amounts of cotton. Only the main wick acts as a wick, the rest just keeps juice from completely bypassing the wick and flooding the device.

IMG_20140218_152432_zps2bf1a52b.jpg


No flooding since, I finally don't hate this device.
 
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dwcraig1

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The ceramic should be a "snug" fit, not so tight you have to press it in but almost. It would be interesting to know which part is out of spec, my guess would be the ceramic (and hopefully). Let us know if you get it figured out as to which one is at fault, the ceramic or it's housing.
I have on many occasions had to take an Emory board to the outsides of the ceramic by the channel(s)(v1's)
 

efinch

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Sorry to bomb the thread, just wondering the little knurled positive nut that traps the positive wire under the ceramic housing has stripped on my term after only 2 months. Does anyone know of anything I can replace it with without having to buy the whole ceramic assembly? Like a ss nut size or something. Just gonna cost me half of what I paid for the term new otherwise. Thanks guys
 

Retro68

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Ok, sorry to bring this thread back into the limelight, but I have searched all over hell & back and found no answer. Does anyone know what company makes the Nautilus RBA? I sent several inquiries to OKC vapes which were completely ignored. I have the regular nautilus and the 7ml version. The parts etc look exactly like the terminator c v1 from SVC, but I was wondering if they are the same (manufacturer etc).
 

crss

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    Ok, sorry to bring this thread back into the limelight, but I have searched all over hell & back and found no answer. Does anyone know what company makes the Nautilus RBA? I sent several inquiries to OKC vapes which were completely ignored. I have the regular nautilus and the 7ml version. The parts etc look exactly like the terminator c v1 from SVC, but I was wondering if they are the same (manufacturer etc).
    No idea... :facepalm:
     
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    dwcraig1

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    Ok, sorry to bring this thread back into the limelight, but I have searched all over hell & back and found no answer. Does anyone know what company makes the Nautilus RBA? I sent several inquiries to OKC vapes which were completely ignored. I have the regular nautilus and the 7ml version. The parts etc look exactly like the terminator c v1 from SVC, but I was wondering if they are the same (manufacturer etc).
    One and the same
     

    turnforward

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    DW, the Ithaka at http://www................../Chithaka_p_277.html is different than the Rainbow's at Stormy's and Discount's. Any experience with this brand? I wanted to get another one. The Rainbow works great, but I was wondering if another brand had a tighter, more precise threading.
    Thank You.
     

    dwcraig1

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    DW, the Ithaka at http://www................../Chithaka_p_277.html is different than the Rainbow's at Stormy's and Discount's. Any experience with this brand? I wanted to get another one. The Rainbow works great, but I was wondering if another brand had a tighter, more precise threading.
    Thank You.
    Your link doesn't work. it appears to be the Tobeco model. From my experience with them they are about the same quality but Tobeco is known for having poor quality control. You may also like Taifun or Kayfun, good clones of those are available for cheap.
     

    turnforward

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    Your link doesn't work. it appears to be the Tobeco model. From my experience with them they are about the same quality but Tobeco is known for having poor quality control. You may also like Taifun or Kayfun, good clones of those are available for cheap.

    Thank You, the link was Hoosiers, this one also comes in a box. I have the legitimate Kayfun lite +, but I'm hooked on ceramic. My KFL+ HAS BEEN SITTING on the counter for a few months. I'll get the Hoosier to add it to my Penelope and Ithaka collection.
    Thanks again for your help.
     

    dwcraig1

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    Thank You, the link was Hoosiers, this one also comes in a box. I have the legitimate Kayfun lite +, but I'm hooked on ceramic. My KFL+ HAS BEEN SITTING on the counter for a few months. I'll get the Hoosier to add it to my Penelope and Ithaka collection.
    Thanks again for your help.
    All my GG type stuff had been cleaned up and put away(but ready). So I brought out Ithaka and topped my Taifun mod "the eye" with it, simply wonderful. The old has become new again.
     

    GoodInk

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    Thank You, the link was Hoosiers, this one also comes in a box. I have the legitimate Kayfun lite +, but I'm hooked on ceramic. My KFL+ HAS BEEN SITTING on the counter for a few months. I'll get the Hoosier to add it to my Penelope and Ithaka collection.
    Thanks again for your help.

    I'm right there with you, my Ithaka clone is loaded with my ADV and my Kayfuns are loaded with other flavors. Ceramic is like an old coffee cup, you just don't clean it because it tastes better.
     

    chebird

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    Hi guys, I've recently aqcuired a Term. C from a helpful guy in the classies, looking to build it for the first time. I have the pure nickle nr wire, I have 32 and 28 gauge Kanthal, and 2mm silica.

    I read thru earlier posts from page 12 thru 22 but could anyone recommend me a good build or a video they liked and copied a build from that works well, what else do I need to have a good vape with this baby?
     

    JeremyR

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    Well with what you've got its basic, regular coil prefer really a micro coil. I recommend to do a full wrap of the negative all the way around under the ring. 32g for vv mod, 28 for mech . If you want to get into a more complex build after you go basic, try a vertical external wrapped coil. It's been my build of choice for a long time. Check out the build here - http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...icro-coil-oddy-kayfun-russian-ithaca-ect.html
     

    chebird

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    Well with what you've got its basic, regular coil prefer really a micro coil. I recommend to do a full wrap of the negative all the way around under the ring. 32g for vv mod, 28 for mech . If you want to get into a more complex build after you go basic, try a vertical external wrapped coil. It's been my build of choice for a long time. Check out the build here - http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...icro-coil-oddy-kayfun-russian-ithaca-ect.html

    Thanks Jeremy, I also have some 2mm hollow Ekowool from Lightning Vapes. Just trying to think if that would work, I don't have a lot of faith in the 2mm silica that I have I dont think its thats great idk, I guess its time to just get my feet wet!
     
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