VAMO skin templates with multiple configuration options

[Stoneface]

Really like the way it turned out, here is the short mode on my gunmetal vamo with chrome endcap

Good job all the way around, and nice tip using the carto for a punch (I wish I'd thought of that).

 

[oldjoe]

I have a friend who does vinyl lettering for race cars (always a variety of colors/patterns lying about for free) but I'm thinking it would be difficult to remove if needed.

 

[Stoneface]

I have a friend who does vinyl lettering for race cars (always a variety of colors/patterns lying about for free) but I'm thinking it would be difficult to remove if needed.

I think the vinyl used for lettering is much thinner than the style we have used. However, it might look great to have a thicker vinyl base with the lettering layered on top...hmmm

 

[Skypea]

peraspera, thank you so much for these templates. I played around with them tonight and learned what to do and what not to do. I printed the pdf file which printed correctly. score! Mine is super ghetto because my xacto knife needs a new blade and the sticker I used is a sample of some window film that keeps lifting from the stainless steel. None the less VamoBamo is dressed up for Friday night and I'm about to strip it naked again, so here's a picture before I do. I can't wait to get some supplies and do this right.

 

[tony808]

Cement wrap originally made for provari

 

[peraspera]

I have a friend who does vinyl lettering for race cars (always a variety of colors/patterns lying about for free) but I'm thinking it would be difficult to remove if needed.

You could test your friend's scrap vinyl on the bottom of your battery cap. Offhand, I can't think of any reason anyone would use an adhesive for the vinyl to use on race cars that would be a stinker to remove. If it doesn't come off easily alcohol or something oily like cooking oil or WD40 would very likely get it off.

I've found that the thinner printable inkjet vinyl is quite a bit trickier to reposition than the textured 3D stuff so if your friend's vinyl is on the thin side you might have to practice with a few pieces to get the placement right. However, if the stuff is free you are only out your time.

 

[wiredawg119]

peraspera, thank you so much! This is awesome and fit was perfect!! I found a leather punch kit at Michaels and one of the smaller punches worked for the +- and the handle/holder for the punches worked perfect for the fire button. I couldn't find a link online or I'd post it.

I found these and ordered them if anyone has been looking, and I believe the same seller has other colors on Amazon:
2 pieces 4" x 8" Sample Size 3D Twill Weave White Silver Carbon Fiber Vinyl Sheet : Amazon.com : Automotive
2 pieces 4" x 8" Sample Size 3D Twill Weave Glossy Black Carbon Fiber Vinyl Sheet : Amazon.com : Automotive
Thanks peraspera!

I did buy these and they are beautiful and nicely textured. But they refuse to stick for me. I was careful not to touch them when installing so that wasn't it. They just keep peeling at the seam. Pushing it down works for an hour or so but then peels up. If you have a trick I'd love to hear it, as this looks incredible! I may just buy a roll at Pep Boys of the vinyl and see how that holds.

 

[Stoneface]

peraspera, thank you so much! This is awesome and fit was perfect!! I found a leather punch kit at Michaels and one of the smaller punches worked for the +- and the handle/holder for the punches worked perfect for the fire button. I couldn't find a link online or I'd post it.
...
I did buy these and they are beautiful and nicely textured. But they refuse to stick for me. I was careful not to touch them when installing so that wasn't it. They just keep peeling at the seam. Pushing it down works for an hour or so but then peels up. If you have a trick I'd love to hear it, as this looks incredible! I may just buy a roll at Pep Boys of the vinyl and see how that holds.

Sorry to hear that the vinyl isn't sticking for you. Did you overlap the seam or cut it so the seam abuts? I used abutting seams to eliminate the overlap. I didn't have the same problem, but I did burnish along the seam (rub it down with something smooth like the bowl of a spoon). The only other tip I can offer is to heat it with a hair dryer. Apparently, this is what the auto guys do when they install the vinyl to get it to conform to curves. I heated mine when I covered the bottom cap, and it doesn't lift from the edge after I do that.

 

[peraspera]

peraspera, thank you so much! This is awesome and fit was perfect!! I found a leather punch kit at Michaels and one of the smaller punches worked for the +- and the handle/holder for the punches worked perfect for the fire button. I couldn't find a link online or I'd post it.

I did buy these and they are beautiful and nicely textured. But they refuse to stick for me. I was careful not to touch them when installing so that wasn't it. They just keep peeling at the seam. Pushing it down works for an hour or so but then peels up. If you have a trick I'd love to hear it, as this looks incredible! I may just buy a roll at Pep Boys of the vinyl and see how that holds.

There is a product called Terrifically Tacky Tape that is a super high tack double-sided tape that should work. It will stick to anything except silicone. You can get online or at Joann's. So far, I haven't run into that issue with either abutted or overlapped seams.

 

[wiredawg119]

I was going to do abutted seams, but didn't want it to peel And thanks for the tip Stoneface. I did use a heat gun and sadly it didn't work.

I was thinking of maybe a layer of double sided tape. I have some at home I may try if I can dig it up. I do believe it is the Terrifically Tacky.

Peeling it back some (what do I have to lose), it seems to really stick to the chrome finish. So maybe it just won't stick to itself...


Edit: Just took a knive and ran it down the seam and peeled the extra off (stuck at work bored). Seams .... together now so we'll see!

 

[Stoneface]

I was going to do abutted seams, but didn't want it to peel And thanks for the tip Stoneface. I did use a heat gun and sadly it didn't work.

I was thinking of maybe a layer of double sided tape. I have some at home I may try if I can dig it up. I do believe it is the Terrifically Tacky.

Peeling it back some (what do I have to lose), it seems to really stick to the chrome finish. So maybe it just won't stick to itself...

I've already rewrapped mine because I couldn't stand a couple of the imperfections in the first wrap, and I'm considering doing it again (my OCD is showing). Anyway, consider trying the abutted seams for your next wrap. I think you will like it much better, and the seams lay more flat so you wouldn't feel the edges of the vinyl much. I printed Peraspera's pattern on paper first to check the fit and mark the seam...not all of our Vamos have exactly the same circumference.
LOL EDIT: Because of your edit...I'm glad that worked for you, nevermind

 

[oldjoe]

You could test your friend's scrap vinyl on the bottom of your battery cap. Offhand, I can't think of any reason anyone would use an adhesive for the vinyl to use on race cars that would be a stinker to remove. If it doesn't come off easily alcohol or something oily like cooking oil or WD40 would very likely get it off.

I've found that the thinner printable inkjet vinyl is quite a bit trickier to reposition than the textured 3D stuff so if your friend's vinyl is on the thin side you might have to practice with a few pieces to get the placement right. However, if the stuff is free you are only out your time.

The vinyl has it's own adhesive and a peel off backing. He has a liquid you spray on the metal first to allow some time for positioning and any air bubble removal. But once it dries..... it is stuck! I'm going to pick up some scrap vinyl, apply to some scrap aluminum and do some experimenting.

 

[Stoneface]

The vinyl has it's own adhesive and a peel off backing. He has a liquid you spray on the metal first to allow some time for positioning and any air bubble removal. But once it dries..... it is stuck! I'm going to pick up some scrap vinyl, apply to some scrap aluminum and do some experimenting.

Definitely experiment!...especially if you think you might ever want to change your wrap...your comment somehow reminds me of tattoo remorse

 

[peraspera]

If the directions for removing dried adhesive aren't on the container you can contact the manufacturer to ask what will remove it. There aren't many adhesives on the market that can only be removed through mechanical means. Let us know how your experimenting turns out.

 

[hellcat]

thanks to everyone that has supplied info and templates on this thread. really excited to try this out. this thread will probably save me hours of frustration.

 

[Stoneface]

thanks to everyone that has supplied info and templates on this thread. really excited to try this out. this thread will probably save me hours of frustration.

Peraspera is the generous genius behind it all

 

[peraspera]

Thank you for the kind words but I really just got the ball rolling. The generosity of the community in sharing their experiences wrapping, tips and links is really what makes this thread so helpful.

 

[Skypea]

I found the ugliest flower shelf paper in my closet and I was like don't do it. lol
I did get a new xacto blade but thats as far as I've gotten for my second attempt.
I'm thinking green, maybe marbled or speckled. Also will want to cut 2. One that
overlaps and one that buts up. This is fun for sure.

 

[peraspera]

Skypea - the fun thing about DIY wraps is that you can play with trying different materials. If you get bored with a wrap or if it starts to look tatty it's easy to just change it.

 

[Disconnect]

My amazon-sourced carbonfiber wrap is waiting for me at home