You're going to need to go higher in resistance. If you like an 8-10 watt vape shoot for something on the order of 1.5 ohms. That will probably be easier to achieve with Kanthal than SS.
Who here is not stocking up in preparation for the May 12th, 2020 Deadline?
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Yeah, but I'm trying to figure out what ohm level would be right. I guess using Steam Engine, I'd assume an average voltage of somewhere around 3.6-8. Plugging that in, looks like if I used my current build, I'd end up with something around a 25W vape, is this correct? If so, it'll help me play with it, and come up with something close.
I'm not an expert in mechanical mod vaping. But as I understand it...
That depends on the mech mod's voltage drop and the battery.
I have older SS mechs that have as much as 0.5 to 0.6 voltage drop. So if a battery is at 3.9v charge, the actual voltage applied to the coil is 3.4-3.3 volts.
On the other hand, I have an Infinite Stingray (copper) and it only has a 0.2 voltage drop. Therefore, the voltage applied to the same coil with the same battery at the same charge level would result in higher wattage since the voltage drop is much less.
Of course, as you vape and the battery loses charge, the wattage you're vaping at will also be reduced since the applied voltage is reducing. This applies to any true mechanical mod regardless of it's voltage drop.
I welcome any corrections to what I've stated above. As stated, I'm far from and expert in this.
That depends on the mech mod's voltage drop and the battery.
I have older SS mechs that have as much as 0.5 to 0.6 voltage drop. So if a battery is at 3.9v charge, the actual voltage applied to the coil is 3.4-3.3 volts.
On the other hand, I have an Infinite Stingray (copper) and it only has a 0.2 voltage drop. Therefore, the voltage applied to the same coil with the same battery at the same charge level would result in higher wattage since the voltage drop is much less.
Of course, as you vape and the battery loses charge, the wattage you're vaping at will also be reduced since the applied voltage is reducing. This applies to any true mechanical mod regardless of it's voltage drop.
I welcome any corrections to what I've stated above. As stated, I'm far from and expert in this.
If you want to be in that 8 - 10 w zone, in theory a 6 wrap kanthal 30 AWG, 2 mm ID, will be 9w at 3.7v. Alternately use 5 wraps at 2.5mm ID.
(Vape Tool Pro screenshots - an android app)
UncleJunkle is correct, you may want to design to a slightly lower ohm target due to mech mod losses. A 30 AWG 5 wrap, 2mm ID, may be better.
(Vape Tool Pro screenshots - an android app)
UncleJunkle is correct, you may want to design to a slightly lower ohm target due to mech mod losses. A 30 AWG 5 wrap, 2mm ID, may be better.
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If you want to be in that 8 - 10 w zone, in theory a 6 wrap kanthal 30 AWG, 2 mm ID, will be 9w at 3.7v. Alternately use 5 wraps at 2.5mm ID.
(Vape Tool Pro screenshots - an android app)
UncleJunkle is correct, you may want to design to a slightly lower ohm target due to mech mod losses. A 30 AWG 5 wrap, 2mm ID, may be better.
Okay, that makes sense, and it keeps me from changing coil size & wraps by much. And even though it's higher resistance, the increase in power to it should balance that out. And it looks like @Rossum's suggestion of kanthal might work.
Thing is, I'm really only getting mechs for bottom of the barrel safety nets in the stash, so I probably won't be stocking up on any kanthal. I'll probably just make adjustments with what I have now, and play around with it.
I guess most mech users know from experience how to "feel" when to replace a battery. For a novice, will production drop off enough for me to notice before I get to an unsafe level of voltage remaining? Is the dropoff you feel very gradual, or more sudden?
It's gradual. I find that if my build is good (as opposed to "too hot") with a fully charged battery, I want a fresh battery by the time the one I'm using is down to 3.6 or so volts.
Now some people intentionally make their builds "too hot" with a freshly charged battery. This does get them more vaping time from a battery, but personally, I don't care for that approach.
No need. Kanthal is a resistance wire - used in many applications. It can't be "regulated" as "tobacco" unless it's labeled and marketed as a vaping product. It's sold by wire manufacturers for a plethora of non-vaping uses.
Resistance Wire - Wire & Cable - Products
Again, not an expert or an avid mech user. But even at your low-wattage/voltage vaping style, the vape should get weak enough for you to want to change the battery well before you reach the danger zone on your battery. I don't vape much higher wattage than you do.
But I will say. Things go wrong - not as planned and not as they are "supposed to". Safety needs to be taken seriously regardless.
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Yes, I should've said "buying" kanthal instead of "stocking up." I'm not worried about getting wire, wick, pg, vg, etc.
And also yes, on the safety. I know with my build & battery, I'm not pushing any limits...but I'm going to have to spend a little more quality time with Mooch if I'm going to use a mech at all. I know that staying in recommended limits isn't all there is to know about using them safely.
Also, check out fasttech for premade coils if you are lazy, you can get like 100 for a couple bucks.
I always cringe when I see people recommending premade coils from Fasttech. It also defeats the point of getting and learning to use a mech mod.
But they are just so darn inexpensive, I cannot help myself. lol
Winding wire into a coil isn't the hard part though. I have more trouble getting a coil properly installed on the deck than winding it.
Though I am tempted to get some of their fancy Clapton pre-wounds.
$41.59 Authentic Avidartisan Daedalus Pro Clapton Wire DIY Tool V2 Coil Jig Kit - 2*18650 at FastTech - Free ShippingWinding wire into a coil isn't the hard part though. I have more trouble getting a coil properly installed on the deck than winding it.
Though I am tempted to get some of their fancy Clapton pre-wounds.
Get this instead. Give a man a fish and he eats for a day. Teach a man to fish he eats forever.
Thanks, BP- but I guess that'd be for people that know exactly what they want, and don't want to build. I'm going to have to experiment with builds for the mech, so buying in bulk for it wouldn't really be something I'd do until I dialed in a build. Even then, I'm only interested in basic round wire, spaced, so I won't be going that route unless something happened to my ability to build.
I did try my current build, first on a battery that was 3.8V, and it was pretty good. Tried one that was 4.15, and it was too much. I regretted that one, because NET is very sensitive to higher temps, and now that tank tastes a little funky/burnt. So yeah, I'll have to go higher ohms for sure. Once I dial it in, I'll build a bunch of coils and store them with the mechs, so I won't forget.
I have to admit, the setup looks pretty decent for circa 2014/2019 mix, and it was easier than I thought to use the bottom fire. But I couldn't get on board with the diminishing output from a battery long term. I guess if someone's been doing it for years, and is used to it, it has advantages....probably even more so if doing DL. Kind of a shame, since I like the size & form factor- no wasted real estate on mechs. And I like the simplicity & reliability. But I also like consistent hits.
I guess with my style, I'll have to build for the upper voltage range, and plan on swapping batteries quickly, rather than building for the median output.
Yep...hopefully it stays that way. But who knows, I might want to set up an 18350 rig or something for occasional use. Like I said, I kinda like the form.
By the way, what do you think of the Ehpro Nemesis vs. the AL Able clone you suggested? I'm still gonna get it, when I finish building a FT cart, but curious if my $10 mod is decent.
The Nemesis is a good mod. The Able is a hybrid mod so you definitely have to make sure you have a protruding 510 pin. Do you have an RDA? If not you might want to pick a good single coil MTL RDA. I can't help with that but others can.
Personally, I think the Nemesis is generally a PITA mod. You can't set it down without fiddling with the locking mechanism, and the firing switch has this "rice pill" thing that holds it together. It's easy to lose, and if you do, you're done until you source a replacement.
I had a Nemesis clone a long time ago and never had any problems with it. I agree about the switch. I forgot about that.
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