Who here is not stocking up in preparation for the May 12th, 2020 Deadline?
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Glad I read these posts. I was gonna buy one or a few just because a lot of people seemed to love them back in the day. I probably won't bother now.
My FT Nemesis clone was a fave of mine and my main vape for about a year and I've still got it. They do not have anything like abundant venting. Those 4 slots cut into the switch threads you can see in your lowest pic communicate with 4 small holes in the lower sleeve down in the switch area plus the switch thread clearances to allow some venting. If I remember correctly, if you have the lock ring closed so the mod can't fire, you've eliminated the small holes from the system. IMO if a battery ignites in this mod it's going to be a real problem. I was planning to drill some vent holes into one of the sleeves which would have helped a lot but never did.
It served me well for quite a while but I always knew I had to be careful with it as is the case with most mech mods. The switch design requires regular maintenance to keep the contact surfaces clean but that is pretty par for the course. I also replaced the metal switch spring with rare earth magnets to help it fire more dependably. That was a great mod, but the magnets are fragile so they crack eventually and that is a safety issue too.
And that's all I've got. Best of luck with whatever path you take Brewdawg!
Fully charged batteries drop their voltage pretty quick in use. It's noticeable in say 5-30 drags depending on how you set up your build and what batteries you use. Happens quicker at higher amp draw rates, slower at lower amp rates.
One way to accommodate a 'hot build' is to 'pulse' with a fresh battery. That means to hit the switch intermittently (switch on for say 2 seconds, off for one, and repeat until your drag is complete) until the battery voltage goes down to the point that you can hold the switch for a complete drag and get a good vape. This is one way to allow you to to set up with a hotter vape at first so you can vape your battery to a lower voltage and not have to swap it out as fast.
Whatever works ...
I didn't try to lock it, but the spring for firing was firm enough that it didn't fire when I stood it up. I understand that was a problem with some, but it didn't happen with this one. I'm not even sure how to lock it?
Yep. Sounds like a good idea I hadn't thought of. My NET really is sensitive to heat, so that might help me build it closer to the higher range of the voltage, or median anyway.Fully charged batteries drop their voltage pretty quick in use. It's noticeable in say 5-30 drags depending on how you set up your build and what batteries you use. Happens quicker at higher amp draw rates, slower at lower amp rates.
One way to accommodate a 'hot build' is to 'pulse' with a fresh battery. That means to hit the switch intermittently (switch on for say 2 seconds, off for one, and repeat until your drag is complete) until the battery voltage goes down to the point that you can hold the switch for a complete drag and get a good vape. This is one way to allow you to to set up with a hotter vape at first so you can vape your battery to a lower voltage and not have to swap it out as fast.
Whatever works ...
I had no idea it was a hybrid- it doesn't mention anything in the description or details about any protection or anything, and calls it a mech. What does it have that makes it a hybrid?
A true hybrid has no 510 or top cap, with the atomizer threading directly onto the tube with an extended positive pin contacting the battery. Many tube mods that refer to themselves as hybrids are just 510 threaded without the positive pin. Most actual hybrids have an atty that is dedicated as part of the design, but not all. The "quasi hybrids", with their 510 connector, rely on an appropriate 510 atomizer with an adequately protruding non-sprung positive pin.
The problem with these "quasi hybrids" is that not all atomizers will connect without a risk of a short if the pin is shallow or recedes. I avoid them.
The faux hybrid or quasi hybrid is still a hybrid mod. The negative of the 510 connects to the tube and the positive on the 510 connects to the battery. There is nothing wrong with that. Having a protruding 510 pin is just another part of mech safety. If that bothers anyone then I agree don't use them.
Only 7 of my numerous tube mechs have a 510 with a center pin (2× Scoundrels CONSVR, 3× Broadside Admiral, 2× Vapergate The 99), but I have yet to come across an atomizer I like that doesn't have a 510 with an adequately protruding non-sprung positive pin so, I haven't experienced the need to avoid mechs that don't have a 510 with a center pin. Even so, the problem with mechs that have a 510 without a center pin is, accidentally pressing the fire button if no atomizer has been installed can short circuit the battery as a result from it getting pushed up against the area around the 510 on the inside of the mod excepting of course if the mod in question uses some kind of feature that prevents this from ever happening, such as the inner sleeve in my Ronin Mods tube mechs, for example, but that in fact is why I avoid putting a battery in before I screw on an atomizer.
There is a insulator in the 510. The problem is if the 510 pin doesn't protrude the negative side of the atty will touch the positive on the battery and cause a direct short. A protruding 510 pin is an absolute must when using a hybrid mech mod.
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Not to mention, some people are elderly, have poor vision, have arthritis or all of the above and much more.
Pre-coiled wires can mean the difference between them vaping or smoking.
Buy thein' precoiled wires.
On the other hand, if you have such poor vision that you can't wrap wire around a rod, how are you going to see well enough to poke those tiny wire ends into a tiny little screw hole in your build deck?
And it's the same situation with arthritis. Getting it screwed into the build deck in the proper position is much harder than simply wrapping wire around a rod. So I don't think buying pre-wrapped coils is really going to help in those situations.
On the other hand, if you have such poor vision that you can't wrap wire around a rod, how are you going to see well enough to poke those tiny wire ends into a tiny little screw hole in your build deck?
True, but having people in my family that are legally blind, there are tools that are used to be able to do things easier. Eliminating even one step is a godsend, though.
Also, a lot of decks these days follow the subtank mini deck design, which is easier to tarp coil legs than older decks like Kayfuns and Taifuns. No wrapping of the leg and no holes to thread into.
I'm sure kanger didn't invent this design, but it's the first deck I ever owned that had it. Kayfun 5 and Prime use it, Uwell Crown RBA, Bezerker MTL RDA, and others.
I call it the goal post design, where the legs are guided by the "goal posts" on either side of the screw head. Just loosen the screw enough to slip the leg past the goal post and tighten. No threading involved.
But I do get your point.
True, but having people in my family that are legally blind, there are tools that are used to be able to do things easier. Eliminating even one step is a godsend, though.
Also, a lot of decks these days follow the subtank mini deck design, which is easier to tarp coil legs than older decks like Kayfuns and Taifuns. No wrapping of the leg and no holes to thread into.
I'm sure kanger didn't invent this design, but it's the first deck I ever owned that had it. Kayfun 5 and Prime use it, Uwell Crown RBA, Bezerker MTL RDA, and others.
I call it the goal post design, where the legs are guided by the "goal posts" on either side of the screw head. Just loosen the screw enough to slip the leg past the goal post and tighten. No threading involved.
But I do get your point.
Do you find goal posts easy to use compared to eyelets?
All of my RTAs are kayfun style. I should pick up a few easier types.
I do, without a doubt. Once the leg is under the screw head, the goal posts stop if from slipping out when tightening down. And no eyelets to poke into. This is by far the easiest design I've used for wires 26AWG or thinner.
The inner sleeve in my Roning Mods tube mechs (I own 5 of 'em) is some sort of thin insulator that fixes that, as the 510 on the atomizer fits through the hole in the top of the sleeve, but the battery does not:
In my side-firing tube mechs (I own 6 of 'em) the button can't push the terminal of the battery against the top of the inside of the mod so that also effectively fixes it, but the vast majority of my tube mechs are designed in such a particular way that this problem still remains, it's just that I don't see that as a problem because a mech user is, or at least should be, someone who fully understands the mechanics BEFORE proceeding, albeit a novice mech user might make the dangerous mistake of not paying all the necessary careful attention to these kinds of vital design principles. But I don't recommend to anyone to try and "fix" the aforementioned problem, as there already exists a proper way to avoid it, i.e. by not putting a battery in the tube mech in question BEFORE putting on the (already correctly adequately inspected) atomizer.
The term "quasi hybrid", or "faux hybrid" is actually called Direct-to-Battery, which is fundamentally different from a true hybrid even though a lot of people keep (incorrectly) calling it hybrid. A true hybrid tube mech has screw threads with a bigger-than-510 diameter in the top, often times (but certainly not always) it also comes with a disc or top cap that fits in there and that has a 510 that either is essentially the same as a faux hybrid or uses a 510 with a pin.
Ha! Shows my ignorance of mechs. For some reason, I'd assumed hybrid meant a hybrid mix of mech & regulated, that it had some level of electronic protection.
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