Why not just hold it upside down in your fist and rub it back and forth on some fine grit sand paper laid flat?
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in my case the idea is not to remove material from the end of the cone (the length) but remove material from the inside of the opening making it larger for the carts to fit through.
i would think but i never tried to make that way. i would think it would be hard to get a nice even finished edge if you file it down.
I'm not sure I would say "considerably" longer but I agree, filing/sand verses using a power tool does take longer.
I just don't want someone reading about this to think that the only way that a Cone can be mod-ed is with the use of some power tool.
Many people don't have or don't like using power tools. For them, a 60 cent piece of sand paper or a $4 file will work fine. It will just take a little longer.
It is actually easier that you might imagine.
Since the file is flat, or the sand paper is on something flat, the surface you make on the cone is flat also. The key is to hold the cone and move it verses moving the file back and forth.
Kinda backwards to the way you usually use a file.
That's actually how I do it, but in a different application - not for cones, but for the battery skirt to shorten it some. I use a nail file. Downside is the files wear out quick and sand paper is cheaper, but everyone can decide for themselves what to do, that pesky free will we're born with. Also I figured if someone was going to use power tools they might in a fraction of a second take too much off one side and ruin their cone. Experienced persons aside.
on another note I've tried the fluxos and although they appear to work fine I'm not a fan, just doesn't wick fast enough for the way I vape (despite all the tricks I've learned thru video instructions).
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Do you "Tilt" your PV when you take a hit?
Man, that's no fun.
If you buy a Big Bore Cone, how can you jam your knuckles into the file when the cone slips? Or launch your cone into your forehead when the Dremel bit breaks?
Dremel's can be so much fun!
That's why my dremel has 6 speed settings. I can keep it between 5,000RPMs - 15,000RPMs, when someone isn't annoying me. I set it at 35,000RPMs and aim, when they tick me off!
True true! Thats why I used my bench grinder and a rat tail file to smooth things back out.Do you "Tilt" your PV when you take a hit?
Man, that's no fun.
If you buy a Big Bore Cone, how can you jam your knuckles into the file when the cone slips? Or launch your cone into your forehead when the Dremel bit breaks?
heh if i try to file the end down by removing length i have trouble keeping the ends parallel. even if i turn it while filing or whatever i still find it hard to get it perfectly even - or it could just be me but they look crooked lol sanding the inside works perfect for me every time - and with fine sandpaper on the dremel its not like it takes off huge amounts at once there is some room for playing around without ruining the cone....
Why does it have to be perfect?
heh i'm just neurotic that way
and several of my cones have air vents drilled in the base anyhow. i dont like how it looks when theres a gap where the carto comes out. and half the reason i use the cone is cuz i tend to be clumsy and the cone helps keep me from knocking the clearo tube off when i bang it on something. the clear dual coils are particularly susceptible to this kind of damage ....
There seems to be a lot of debate on the best way to flare original cones to take the larger diameter fluxomizers... honestly, all I do is take my leatherman, if you don't have one, a regular pair of needlenose will work, close the jaws and insert them into the end. now, just wallow them around in therefor about 20 seconds, gently of course. Has worked on every cone I have tried it on. the fit is a little tight at first, and if you are using a drip tip that matches the od of the fluxomizer, you will have to remove the dt from the cart to remove the cone but it works!. No worry about getting a smooth finish and no worry about a gap!!!
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