Personally I think the 2.6-2.8 ohm at anything over 3.2V is too hot. That might be because of the organic fluid I use, though. My next batch will be 2.8-3.0 ohm
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Personally I think the 2.6-2.8 ohm at anything over 3.2V is too hot. That might be because of the organic fluid I use, though. My next batch will be 2.8-3.0 ohm
I just checked the ones that came with it and if my meter is correct 1 comes in at 3.1 ohm and the other 4 are 3.6 ohm. They seem to hit nice at 3.7 and above but 3.2 not very good.
Hey bad... this means a ce2 d with vision deax style??!!! weeeeeeee!!! :>)
Now .... WHEN brother WHEN???????
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What changed from the Metal CE2's to the New CE2's that caused all this?
The wick got bigger.
The Hole in the Cup Seal and the Hole in the O-Ring got bigger.
Isn't everythig these days??Hopefully, it's not on a slow boat from, well you know.
I think the 2.6ohm fluxos work great on a VV ego. At 3.2V, my menthol juice tends to taste "soapy" unless the battery is fully charged. 3.7V is about right if you want to moderately chain vape. At 4.2V, it's a "I want a fix, and I want it now".
I use the smaller cup seal and fluff the wicks to make sure there's not a gap between the seal and the wicks to prevent leaking. My wife leaves the standard seal in place, unmodded, other than ever so slightly lifting the seal over the wicks to decreasing the pinching. We both get pools of juices. That probably rules out the changes to the seal.
It almost has to be the fatter wicks that allow high VG to wick better. For high/pure PG, the coil just can't vaporize fast enough so the rushing air makes liquid spray off the wick. My wife's 100% PG pools rapidly. My 30-40% VG pools but not nearly as fast. At lower voltages, it pools much faster, but at higher voltages I no longer get dry hits.
If I'm right, that means it'll be damn near impossible to make a "one size fits all" fluxo. Although it means lower ohms should improve the issue since the higher watts will more fully vaporize the liquid, but will only work for those that love TH.
I was using 2.4-2.6ohm 808 Fluxo's at 4.5v with pure PG & 5-6V with 70PG/30VG with my ProVari. I don't use the original seals though, just a Vortex mouthpiece, fluffed the wicks so that they are slightly bunched up against the slots for the wick cup. As long as I tilt to keep the wicks wet every 3 or 4 drags I get no burnt taste. The fat wicks do suck up a lot of juice though. The CE2 though I would have to agree is a tuner's carto, each to his own liking. At least the end user can tune to what they perceive is their optimum vape. As long as the carto isn't defective out of the box, the tweaks can improve it, been doing that with all of them to get them where I want them.
At 5-6 volts though I was taking a drag, while walking past the mirror, I could see the coil glowing inside the Fluxo, after that I turned it down, never noticed it got that bright in there. Freaked me out knowing I was doing that for a while. Never popped a coil at that voltage....yet. Good coils in these things.
At 5-6 volts though I was taking a drag, while walking past the mirror, I could see the coil glowing inside the Fluxo, after that I turned it down, never noticed it got that bright in there. Freaked me out knowing I was doing that for a while. Never popped a coil at that voltage....yet. Good coils in these things.
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Bingo !!!
What is going on is that with every design change, new issues appear. Why is this?
Because there Isn't a single design that accommodates all types of PG:VG Ratios at All Voltages/Ohms. So what the OEM is doing is to make changes that improve on the most Glaring Problems for the Largest Percentage of people.
Getting a bit of e-Liquid condensation might be annoying. But getting a Burnt Taste is a Show Stopper. So when the OEM fixed the wicking issue, for the most part, they caused another, albeit smaller problem, for people.
I can understand the OEM's thinking. There is a Larger percentage of people who want and Out-Of-The-Box Carto that doesn't taste Burnt.
The Old CE2"s didn't have much of an e-Liquid condensation issue, but they also didn't wick all that great. So Many people were turned off by them. The hard core people would mod the cup seal or flip this or do that. But the hard core mod people was the smaller percentage of all users. A much Smaller Percentage.
So here we are.
I'm not exactly sure if there is a solution to the e-Liquid in the mouth issue that will work for All people.
Let keep our Fingers Crossed that Bad has come up with something good in that e-Cig workshop of his.
BTW - These New Cartos are the ones I have been looking for.
Great Wicking with little mod-ing. And I'm not getting much e-Liquid condensation.
But then again, I use mostly 30%PG | 70%VG.
Great Wicking with little mod-ing. And I'm not getting much e-Liquid condensation.
But then again, I use mostly 30%PG | 70%VG.
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Okay, for those who have issues with excessive condensation and juice-in-the-mouth syndrome, I think I may have solved the issue.
The only problem is, I don't quite know how.
This is my Fluxomizer tank mod. I'm using that same tank right now. Still works great, and the only change that I have made to it outside of that video is that I'm now using 2 of the middle O-rings stacked instead of one: The lower groove-side down over the cup as many of us have already done, and the other groove-side up. The tube length I cut and its positioning in my tank mod has made for about a 2/3mm gap or so between the bottom of my drip tip and the top seal. I haven't had a single juice in the mouth incident yet. I haven't even had a hint of juice in the mouth, not even a thin sheen of condensation at the mouth of the drip tip transferring to my lips. I don't know why, but here is what I do know:
1. The top groove-side up seal does trap some condensation and liquid in the groove.
2. The gap between the top seal and my drip tip is small enough to trap condensation as it enters, but as the liquid pools, its surface tension keeps it trapped there. Any stray condensation from the air channel that passes this gap seems to flow into there and doesn't come back out, or if it does, it just drops back into the cup/coil.
3. Bearing in mind that I've done the donut mod to both seals, so the air channel from the cup on out is wide.
4. When I remove the seals for filling they're pretty juicy. My drip tip, however, isn't, except along the bottom where the juice gets trapped between that and the seals.
So, make of that what you will, but it seems as though somewhere in there is the secret to solving the juice-in-the-mouth problem.
The only problem is, I don't quite know how.
This is my Fluxomizer tank mod. I'm using that same tank right now. Still works great, and the only change that I have made to it outside of that video is that I'm now using 2 of the middle O-rings stacked instead of one: The lower groove-side down over the cup as many of us have already done, and the other groove-side up. The tube length I cut and its positioning in my tank mod has made for about a 2/3mm gap or so between the bottom of my drip tip and the top seal. I haven't had a single juice in the mouth incident yet. I haven't even had a hint of juice in the mouth, not even a thin sheen of condensation at the mouth of the drip tip transferring to my lips. I don't know why, but here is what I do know:
1. The top groove-side up seal does trap some condensation and liquid in the groove.
2. The gap between the top seal and my drip tip is small enough to trap condensation as it enters, but as the liquid pools, its surface tension keeps it trapped there. Any stray condensation from the air channel that passes this gap seems to flow into there and doesn't come back out, or if it does, it just drops back into the cup/coil.
3. Bearing in mind that I've done the donut mod to both seals, so the air channel from the cup on out is wide.
4. When I remove the seals for filling they're pretty juicy. My drip tip, however, isn't, except along the bottom where the juice gets trapped between that and the seals.
So, make of that what you will, but it seems as though somewhere in there is the secret to solving the juice-in-the-mouth problem.
Yup, there's a number of earlier posts where people are stacking stuff together. If it can't pool, you can't get much in your mouth. I usually do the double stack, and then trim the tube so the plug sits firm against the two seals. Which probably means the great new mouthpieces won't properly fit half my cartos... 
Love the video! Really nice and simple mod. I'm gonna have to find a 6 ml bottle.
I double stack the small inner seals, and when I see a bit of condensation I fling my e-cig. The condensation flings out and I continue to vape 
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Mr Bad sir, I really don't get on with whistle tips and I am sure there a loads out there like me that love the drip tip style on a clearo. Any chance of your conversion kit ever featuring a drip tip style? I really want to get rid of the silicon seals and syringe filling but not sure I can live with losing my big bore mouthpiece...
Drip tips will prevent the condensation you get with whistle tips. It allows the excess vapor to escape whereas the whistle tips don't.
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