When I unscrew the top nut the chimney is sticking so well in the o ring, it starts spinning as well and comes with it. It didn't use to, but more often than not it does now.
Cthulhu RTA Discusion
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When I unscrew the top nut the chimney is sticking so well in the o ring, it starts spinning as well and comes with it. It didn't use to, but more often than not it does now.
But why are you taking that off to fill it? There are 4 holes under the top piece for filling. Only time you should need to take that off is for building. I guess maybe I'm confused as to what you're saying is going on.
Oh, okay, I see what you are saying now. Maybe find a new oring that doesn't fit so tightly? Mine seems to work perfectly, but it is also brand new. Or tighten down the nut more so that the chimney can't spin as easy.
Oh, okay, I see what you are saying now. Maybe find a new oring that doesn't fit so tightly? Mine seems to work perfectly, but it is also brand new. Or tighten down the nut more so that the chimney can't spin as easy.
I have that small nut in pretty tight. Yes, its the top most one where the drip tip goes in that I meant. Can't go too loose or you'll lose vacuum.
Thanks for the tip on wicking. I had the same issue when I first started using it where the chimney would spin off while taking off the top the drip tip goes into to refill. After a couple of times it popped into my head to take the tip of the dripper or dripper bottle and rub it along the top of the chimney after refilling. It keeps that tip there lubricated when you twist it in so the o-ring will be snug, but won't twist the chimney off when I take the top off to refill. I've only had to do it after a cleaning and not after every refill. Hope that helps.
I also have my nut in pretty tight. After I get it finger tight, I give it a bit more with my pliers until the tank stops spinning when I put a bit of a gentle twist to it. I started doing this after I found parts of the tank spinning in my hand while doing things like adjusting the AFC or wiping the tank down.
A question to those who use JC. I use Shiseido, take the top and bottom layers off. I tend to cut a piece a bit wider than the width of the coils, and fold it over. How big do you cut your cotton? Does anyone just cut a piece the same width and pass it through? It's been hard for me to find a good thickness for the cotton, from a smaller piece that didn't fully fill the coils to rolling it up into a cylinder, compressed or lose, and passing that through, trying both very snug to freely passing through and I feel like I'm still not getting that clean of a flavor and end up having to replace the wick by the next day, or 2 days at most.
Wasn't thinking.... It's shipping from China, thought I mentioned it but I guess I started typing it and deleted it, assuming the tracking info is displayed based on my location rather than the local time at each scan location....
i prefer to bottom fill so i don't have to wrestle with that ring...i saw the pics in this thread where guys cut notches or a slot in theirs, I haven't done that yet, so I mostly bottom fill. quick and easy, and you get more juice in.
oh and my bottom fill screw always seems to leak, replaced the oring and that made no difference. it's not a lot so it doesn't bug me....much
I got one of the clones from FT a few hours ago. I have to say despite my expectations being very high it has not disappointed me at all even for the short time I have used it. Huge tasty clouds with 0 dry hits. The airflow is not as airy as I was expecting, but still perfectly adequate. The AFC ring is stiff as hell even with some lubrication.
It took hours to disassemble and clean properly as there are around 28 separate parts including all the o-rings and screws. The deck is really tight! I had to wrangle like hell to fit in the coils (24G 8 wraps @2.5mm ~ 0.3 ohms) without any danger of getting a short on the chimney. Those tiny grub screws are fiddly as hell to work with. The hex tool it came with was entirely useless, I used a 0.7mm hex from my tool kit instead. I know the authentic uses 0.9mm, but as far as I know this is the only part that differs in size.
The quality of the whole RTA is superb, all the tolerances seemed spot on and the threads pretty smooth. It cost me £8.50 delivered, as opposed to £35+ for the authentic.
It took hours to disassemble and clean properly as there are around 28 separate parts including all the o-rings and screws. The deck is really tight! I had to wrangle like hell to fit in the coils (24G 8 wraps @2.5mm ~ 0.3 ohms) without any danger of getting a short on the chimney. Those tiny grub screws are fiddly as hell to work with. The hex tool it came with was entirely useless, I used a 0.7mm hex from my tool kit instead. I know the authentic uses 0.9mm, but as far as I know this is the only part that differs in size.
The quality of the whole RTA is superb, all the tolerances seemed spot on and the threads pretty smooth. It cost me £8.50 delivered, as opposed to £35+ for the authentic.
The tight deck imo is what kills this rta from being able to get higher wattage builds. No ability to put 3mm id coils or even 2.5 mm twisted builds without hitting the chimney body. Overall i still think it is a darn good rta. minus machining issues.
I struggled a little to get the 2.5mm coils in, but it wasn't that hard. I've had it up to 60W so far with no issues.
I wish I could get the performance out of mine. I have pretty much the same build as you Sonicbomb, though mine might be 8 wraps. I haven't been able to go past 40w without getting a scorched taste. Keep re-wicking, going thinner and thicker and can't get it right. It also leaks every single time I fill it. I started covering the airflow holes with my fingers after I saw it still leaking with the AFC closed but still nothing. 40w vape isn't enjoyable at all to me either, unfortunately.
Firstly when I top filled I got bad leaking even using the techniques described earlier in this thread, so I just bottom fill it.
I wicked it like an RDA, so some tension through the coil but still able to move. Make sure the section of wick that you use after basic trimming is nice and fluffy and compressed as little as possible. No excess on the deck, just tapered tails that go to within 1-2mm of the bottom of the juice channels. Cutting them at an angle with the shortest part furthest away from you, coming to a point closest to you will help. See the diagram below provided by vapenstein using the 'against' cut. Lightly wet the wick ends before trying to position them in the channels. I hope this helps.
I wicked it like an RDA, so some tension through the coil but still able to move. Make sure the section of wick that you use after basic trimming is nice and fluffy and compressed as little as possible. No excess on the deck, just tapered tails that go to within 1-2mm of the bottom of the juice channels. Cutting them at an angle with the shortest part furthest away from you, coming to a point closest to you will help. See the diagram below provided by vapenstein using the 'against' cut. Lightly wet the wick ends before trying to position them in the channels. I hope this helps.
Replacement deck arrived yesterday, going to be building it tonight. The text on the bottom is bolder, the SN is about 3000 higher than my original one. The 510 pin seems smaller with a thicker insulator and the grub screws it came with are longer than the originals. The bottom fill hole seems to be deeper into the deck, as well....
Just saw yesterday on their Facebook page, theyre working on a V2 now. They showed a diagram of both a single and dual coil deck. Sounds right up my alley!
So I went with 26g, did 9 wraps at 2mm per coil....
Haven't top-filled yet, but no leaks. Even bottom filling, occasionally I'd have a drop or two get into an air channel after turning it over but I haven't had it yet with the new deck. One thing I did notice, and I think it's more cosmetic than anything because I tend to have it fully open, the new deck didn't come with the AFC ring, so I'm using the old one, when fully open, there's no issue, but when I start closing the airflow, one side looks more open than the other. Thinking one channel is drilled out wider than the other....
On the old one and the leks from the 510 pin, I removed the pin and there wasn't any visible damage to the insulator or the pin and no signs of liquid having been in between the pin and the insulator, somehow liquid was getting between the deck and the insulator....
i got the new base too, and it leaks less than the old but still leaks a tiny bit. I'm really happy with it, though, was hitting it at 110 watts last night, and 70 today. 3 strands of 26 ga kanthal twisted, 2 mm, 5 wraps each, comes in at .17. vaping nirvana.
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