Cthulhu RTA Discusion

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Big Me

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As I'd have to remove the tank from the mod in order to close off the airflow anyway, I've just been filling it from the bottom.

Yes, it takes a while with a needle nose bottle but I can fill the tank completely and it doesn't leak.

Now, if I could get a tank with the Cthulhu base, airflow and capacity with the same refill method as the fogger v6 I reckon I'd have the perfect RTA. :)
 

tehmidcap

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As I'd have to remove the tank from the mod in order to close off the airflow anyway, I've just been filling it from the bottom.

Yes, it takes a while with a needle nose bottle but I can fill the tank completely and it doesn't leak.

Now, if I could get a tank with the Cthulhu base, airflow and capacity with the same refill method as the fogger v6 I reckon I'd have the perfect RTA. :)

Which brings up a question I asked earlier... Is it fully compatible with Kayfun parts including using the cthulhu base on a Kayfun v4 using either chimney base or perhaps none at all?

I'd like to know cuz I'm in the process of collecting compatible pieces and tanks to build some custom?
 

Cacique

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So frustrated. My Cthulhu doesn't have any of those problems but I've barely gotten to use it and only with the pre-built coils. I found a store where I might pick up a left handed drill bit to get the 2 screws out, now I just have to find some m2 screws which I'll probably have to order online. I don't think the ones at Ace will fit because of the screw heads look too big.
 

Cacique

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1 screw in my center post and another screw are stuck inside the RDA. They're completely stripped so no kind of screw driver will catch and since they don't have a screw head I can grab with pliers my only option is to take a left handed drill bit to it to take it out. This happened after my 4th built, and I admit it was most likely me trying to tighten the screws down as it felt like they kept coming loose too quickly.
 
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ThunderDan

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After a week of using it:

  • It's impossible to turn the AFC ring, way too tight.
  • Top fill isn't all it's cracked up to be. The top ring is also tight to turn off and there nothing to get a grip on. And because I can't close the AFC it leaks while filling.
Anyone else have problems with the AFC ring?

Saw this on ECR earlier, might help with taking the top off:



Another suggestion I read was to epoxy the DT to it, heh, but I don't really care for that idea. I think you could get a larger o-ring to accomplish the same thing.
 

ThunderDan

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Which brings up a question I asked earlier... Is it fully compatible with Kayfun parts including using the cthulhu base on a Kayfun v4 using either chimney base or perhaps none at all?

I'd like to know cuz I'm in the process of collecting compatible pieces and tanks to build some custom?
I just tried it for you, and no, the KF4 tank doesn't fit on the Cthulhu base, wouldn't thread onto it.
 
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Big Me

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And if like me, the allen key doesn't fit perfectly just find yourself something better from the start. After I started noticing the issue I got myself a precision screw driver set that had an allen bit that fit much better, unfortunately it was too late for the 2 screws.
I swapped the supplied screws (M2 x 3mm) out immediately for some decent M2 x 4mm A2 grade grub screws I had already.

I never trust any screw supplied with atties, I've had them strip on me far too often.
 
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anavidfan

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1 screw in my center post and another screw are stuck inside the RDA. They're completely stripped so no kind of screw driver will catch and since they don't have a screw head I can grab with pliers my only option is to take a left handed drill bit to it to take it out. This happened after my 4th built, and I admit it was most likely me trying to tighten the screws down as it felt like they kept coming loose too quickly.

Oh, I see the grub screws. I thought for a moment some came with standard screws or people were replacing the grubs with standard ones. When I turn the grubs Im very careful not over tighten because I remember with the Rose , they said never over tighten because it can actually scrape off some of the wire and jam it in the threads.
 

Vapenstein

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Initial impressions. Mine was pretty clean, no machining detritus and the air pathways looked good. Gave it a rinse in boiling water and dried it off. Threw a 2x2mm 26ga 6 wrap 0.25 ohm build in it. Building on it is fairly nice, but like the Aqua the chamber is right there so even though I didn't wick very heavy I had to play with it a little before screwing the chamber on. I opted to stuff the inlets.

A little flood-y right after filling via the top, but two draws cleared that up and it hasn't leaked. Been running it everywhere between 30-55w and settled on 30w like I vape the Lemo 2. It hasn't given me a dry hit, but I can't say that I feel the hits are real saturated either. It seems to wick _just_ enough, but I'm used to a little wetter vape. I also can't say that I'm blown away by the flavor. I thought the flavor would be really dense with the small chamber and chimney.

I do love the airflow, but I think I had higher expectations for the flavor. I'll have to vape this for a couple days before I know how I feel about it, but so far it doesn't make me want to give up my Lemo 2. As much juice as it drinks it should taste like an rda IMO. Especially considering I did 2mm coils for this build, the flavor should be better. Don't love it, don't hate it, need to vape it more. I still don't love Orchid style decks. Did I say I love the airflow? Every maker thinking of designing a new Rta should add this tank, and the Goblin too I'm guessing, to their list of inspirations because it absolutely does airflow right.

I now have 3 different tanks and they all do different things well, but none of them does everything well. I missed the whole evolution of the Rta while I was vaping 306s for the last four and a half years. I love the convenience of the Rta, I'd just like one that doesn't leak, wicks, fills conveniently, is easy to build, has open airflow, and provides crisp, vibrant flavor. I'm probably not alone.
 
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I haven't tried it but supposedly another reliable way is running the tails all the way through the channels until they are slightly protruding into the tank section, you must thin them out in the channels so they don't crowd it too much, I'd probably try that if I were using rayon.
For leaks on filling try closing off the air control when you fill and flip the tank upside down before opening the air again.

I'm using 2.4mm coils. The wick channels are huge. What I did was cut my tails into a V and stuff the whole thing in.
Remember to close your afc ring if your top filling. Then invert it and open your afc while its inverted. And hold it inverted for a good 20s. That usually prevents flooding on top fill attys that don't have juice control.
Thank you for your suggestions.
I already kept the airflow closed and inverted the atty after fill up. Sometimes tough it will flood while I was filling it.
I tried again using the coils that came with the atty. Being only 2mm it is bound to take less cotton.
Also, I made sure that cotton is seen at the bottom of the channels after inserting the lower part of the chimney.
Doesn't seem to leak anymore.
It seems that the key to a successful build is to have as less cotton as you can get away with it that can fill the channels. I wouldn't try any coil more than 2mm. Having a less crowded chimney will also improve the air flow.
Practice makes perfect. :)
 

Slackitude

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Got mine in the mail yesterday, cleaned it and built it with the included 2 mm coils. I'm not great with builds and wicking but it works! .4 Ω running anywhere between 20 - 45 watts. No leaking yet but it is gurgling a lot. Do I need more wick in there? I'm guessing yes.

I may try 2.5 mm coils next time so I can get more cotton in there.

edit: or maybe I just need longer tails on my wicks. They sit about halfway down the channels currently.
 
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